What should be done when running higher boost then?
What should be done when running bigger injectors?
and so the same for FMIC mods?
timing keeps changing plz help
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ha ha, you the comedian? Dude, trust me, if you want me to rip everything you say apart due to the fact you dont know what you are talking about just ask. If you give shit advise and I correct it rather think about it long and hard and maybe learn somthing.HancoB wrote:Thats funny, coz I have seen plenty other tuners do that. And they do it on the dyno, measuring your exhaust gasses and running diagnostic software with that.RAW wrote:Your 100% correct, set it to 15 degree's, that is your base timing, dont listen to ANYONE that tells you to set it on a dyno, It is one of the most getto things in the book to set your base timing to any form of mods or shit, wtf are you people on? Base timing controls more than just ignition timing, it also controls fueling, idle actuation ectr ectr, everything runs off that, no matter WHAT you have done you should always run 15deg base on your stock ECU, if you cant get the results you want go get a piggy back or a stand alone.poizen wrote:i do get it but also we got to be realistic im running std timing so anyone who as std timing which is 15degree then can they help
also im not spending 400-500 for a guy to tighten 3 bolts when take it to be dyno there nuffing wrong with the way im dong it all i want to know is what would the most likely cause of this timing changing by tighten the bolts does anyone else have this problem
Poizen, get out your FSM read how it tells you how to disconect the TPS ectr to do it, make sure the rubber o-ring isnt pinched get it to 15deg and slowly tighten one by one till its tight, if it moves there is somthing in the CAS drive or mounting bracket loose,,, and for shit sakes dont hit the fckn thing with a hammer or blunt object!!!! those things are DAMM sensitive and pop that sensor and your in for a LOVERLY replacement price.
If your car is set up right (cam timing) 15deg should be almost spot on in the middle on the slots, if the head and block has been skimmed it will obviously change slightly.
To those of you that arnt the smarter, if you advance the CAS your car will more than likely detonate due to our crap fuel ESPECIALY if you have added boost... If you retard the CAS you will loose power through out the whole map, your fuel consumption will go to shit and the only part that will benefit is a TINY little bit up top ONLY if you have added boost, even then your injection timing is off,,, hurting 95% of the map for 5% is just stupid.
Then they must all be the worst tuners out there.
and as for the hammer part, a small, light weight hammer with light taps or nips wont do anything. Driving on the SA roads does more damage to it than lightly tapping it with a hammer.
I guess turning the fueling screw should be done by electro microscopic hydraulic arms then not to damage it?
or would a plain screw driver work?
Ill give you a little help:
a AFR has fck all to do with ignition timing,Thats funny, coz I have seen plenty other tuners do that. And they do it on the dyno, measuring your exhaust gasses and running diagnostic software with that.
how many tuners here have Nissan consults? (remember we are non OBD)
Your not far off, I still get Ferrolli phoning me for advise every month or two, and i think he would be one of your main manna there in CPT no?Then they must all be the worst tuners out there.
And tell me, what sort of hertz is the motor put threw on SA roads when isolated with rubber engine mounts? VS smaking a highly highly sensitive CAS with a hammer?and as for the hammer part, a small, light weight hammer with light taps or nips wont do anything. Driving on the SA roads does more damage to it than lightly tapping it with a hammer.
Again, jippoing the fuel set screw is almost as getto as fucking with the CAS, your effectivly moving the whole fueling map,,, so if you were trying to solve a lean spot you can, but the WHOLE rest of the map will now be wasting fuel... try lean it and i bet youll get knock.I guess turning the fueling screw should be done by electro microscopic hydraulic arms then not to damage it?
Run a piggy back, unless you want to be getto?HancoB wrote:What should be done when running higher boost then?
What should be done when running bigger injectors?
and so the same for FMIC mods?
Nope, just get the right advise and sort it, he wants base timing, no need to getto rig anything, just set the base as I told him and he will be 100% fine. Better that than getto rigging it and paying somone to rebuild it 2-3 times because your so smart trying to fuck with the stock ECU that has nothing wrong with it.Looks like your best bet will be to go to RAW and let him fix it for you!
Agg cute? you sour because you were trying to be cool buying a sports car that you cant afford? these getto mods costing you lots of money in the long run? just remember some of us baught S's for the sole reason to modify and have fun with not try count how many cents we have at the end of the month to keep it running... but even then at least we do things right which is usualy cheaper than getto rigging it and having to rebuild.You'd better start selling everything you have tho!
And the only half build ive ever done on a car where i didnt fit a stand alone was Riaan's, and you would be pretty dumb if you didnt know your "mate" had the S-AFC2 in his glove box... funny how that CA18 made over 200kw on its STOCK base timing with a S-AFC doing the fuel trim... amazing how it works when you do it right hey?
ha ha most sx'es out there have mounts so worn that it takes more of a beating and the roads are so messed up.
Remember one thing Ian, all the sx'es in SA doesn't go to you.
and as for the piggy back, why didn't you fit one then?
Some times you have to go the "getto", as you call it, route coz thats all you can do at that time.
The guys on this forum aren't all rich and can't all afford the uber great things out there.
So if we take it to a point now, what you are saying is that, dont fit a bigger cooler, dont fit bigger injectors, dont fit bigger cams, infact dont do anyting, keep it stock.
or if you want to do something, get a piggy back and the the rest of the mods?
Right raw?
and then as for poizens case, dude take you FMIC off and fit the stock one, dont up your boost, or anything in the line of more power.
Remember one thing Ian, all the sx'es in SA doesn't go to you.
and as for the piggy back, why didn't you fit one then?
Some times you have to go the "getto", as you call it, route coz thats all you can do at that time.
The guys on this forum aren't all rich and can't all afford the uber great things out there.
So if we take it to a point now, what you are saying is that, dont fit a bigger cooler, dont fit bigger injectors, dont fit bigger cams, infact dont do anyting, keep it stock.
or if you want to do something, get a piggy back and the the rest of the mods?
Right raw?
and then as for poizens case, dude take you FMIC off and fit the stock one, dont up your boost, or anything in the line of more power.
my car is stock, so none of that, running stock boost, stock coolers everything stock.
Car was tuned on a dyno to the best fuel consumption and power. Haven't had a bit of trouble and no problems!
I love it as is, and yes money is a big thing at this time with our economy or did you miss something.
Yes I know he had that apexi, but it still knocked.
Just face the fact that some other people out there have other ways of doing things.
The Nismo guys or Top secret or Amuse or name it will crap on your head for doing some things that you do. They have their ways and you have yours. I respect your ways and have seen a few of your builds and yes very nice and very good, but someone else would have done other things and you have to respect that.
Car was tuned on a dyno to the best fuel consumption and power. Haven't had a bit of trouble and no problems!
I love it as is, and yes money is a big thing at this time with our economy or did you miss something.
Yes I know he had that apexi, but it still knocked.
Just face the fact that some other people out there have other ways of doing things.
The Nismo guys or Top secret or Amuse or name it will crap on your head for doing some things that you do. They have their ways and you have yours. I respect your ways and have seen a few of your builds and yes very nice and very good, but someone else would have done other things and you have to respect that.
HancoB wrote:ha ha most sx'es out there have mounts so worn that it takes more of a beating and the roads are so messed up.
Remember one thing Ian, all the sx'es in SA doesn't go to you.
and as for the piggy back, why didn't you fit one then?
Some times you have to go the "getto", as you call it, route coz thats all you can do at that time.
The guys on this forum aren't all rich and can't all afford the uber great things out there.
So if we take it to a point now, what you are saying is that, dont fit a bigger cooler, dont fit bigger injectors, dont fit bigger cams, infact dont do anyting, keep it stock.
or if you want to do something, get a piggy back and the the rest of the mods?
Right raw?
and then as for poizens case, dude take you FMIC off and fit the stock one, dont up your boost, or anything in the line of more power.
dude... seriously now,,, are you stupid?
First you say it didnt, now you say it does but it knocked? please, stop talking shit and realise people know you dont know what your talking about, that motor would not have lasted 500km's knocking... yet it didnt give a single problem in what? 12 months of his driving? at 200kw on staight pump fuel with no form of octane booster or meth?
There is NOTHING wrong with modding a SX with a stock ECU, but you DO NOT need to fuck with ecu by either changing base timing or base fuel... this is just stupid, if you get to the stage where your stock ECU is out of range fit a piggy back and blanket the part you need changed... this only realy needs to be done once you get to changing fuel injectors or air flow meters,,, if youve already spent all the money doing FMIC, intake, exhaust ectr why not spend on the managment where some of the best power can be made?
And yes your right, not all the SX's come to me, I have a 19 month waiting list and I only do cars that are worth my time and hastle, unfortunatly I dont deal with small fry as I have more important things to do,, that in no way means though that my advise to Poizen or anyone else here isnt to try help them.
And yes other people would disagree with how I do things, but the fact of the matter is the motors I build last, they make power and they are fuel efficient, when you can one day get that right then you can come try preach to me.
The thing is there is all the talking but poizen still sits with a problem that needs to be fixed, asap, and he doesn't have the cash to fix it by fitting a piggy back or stand alone.
So then to stop the changing of the timing when he tightens the bolts what non "getto" non expensive ways are there since my suggestions are all wrong.
he needs to get the car going asap.
So then to stop the changing of the timing when he tightens the bolts what non "getto" non expensive ways are there since my suggestions are all wrong.
he needs to get the car going asap.
And I repeat from my first post on page 1:HancoB wrote:The thing is there is all the talking but poizen still sits with a problem that needs to be fixed, asap, and he doesn't have the cash to fix it by fitting a piggy back or stand alone.
So then to stop the changing of the timing when he tightens the bolts what non "getto" non expensive ways are there since my suggestions are all wrong.
he needs to get the car going asap.
Your 100% correct, set it to 15 degree's, that is your base timing, dont listen to ANYONE that tells you to set it on a dyno, no matter WHAT you have done you should always run 15deg base on your stock ECU,
Poizen, get out your FSM read how it tells you how to disconect the TPS ectr to do it, make sure the rubber o-ring isnt pinched get it to 15deg and slowly tighten one by one till its tight, if it moves there is somthing in the CAS drive or mounting bracket loose,,,
If your car is set up right (cam timing) 15deg should be almost spot on in the middle on the slots, if the head and block has been skimmed it will obviously change slightly.
Last edited by RAW on Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Poizen - I'm not going to tell you who's advice to follow, you can surely think for yourself 
Anyway - your problem might be similar to the one I had on the CAS that I had to change after my rebuild. Check the tabs on the side where the bolts go through - on my old CAS the bolts where fitted without washers and had been overtightened, causing the bolts to actually damage the tabs.
As soon as a groove or pit like this is there, the CAS is always going to return to that position. If this is the case, try fitting the bolts with bigger washers to distribute the load or otherwise you'll have to make another plan. Just remember that the sensor in the CAS is quite sensitive.
Anyway - your problem might be similar to the one I had on the CAS that I had to change after my rebuild. Check the tabs on the side where the bolts go through - on my old CAS the bolts where fitted without washers and had been overtightened, causing the bolts to actually damage the tabs.
As soon as a groove or pit like this is there, the CAS is always going to return to that position. If this is the case, try fitting the bolts with bigger washers to distribute the load or otherwise you'll have to make another plan. Just remember that the sensor in the CAS is quite sensitive.
S13 CA18DET, NIStune and...oh wait no that's gone..... 