POWDER wrote:Hey guyz, you will require 0ga cable to move the battery, this is due to the extra length causing resistance on the standard 4ga cable.
The box is a good idea to keep any battery acid leaks from ruining your paint n metal at the back, plastic box being the best for obvious reasons......
Make sure to bolt the neg. Terminal directly to the chassis at the back with a short as possible cable also being 0ga.
For the Pos. 0ga cable, it is best to not mess with your original harness, so lay it all the way to the front and solder and clamp to the original pos. 4ga cable as close to the first split as possible.
A good idea would also be to use NEW terminals on the battery it self to improve connection, especialy if the original ones have corrosion or acid residue on them...
Hope this helps.
I have sofar upgraded the existing power ground and pos. And trust me, the Pos. Harness will drive u mad if replacing totally.... Connection, connection, connection.... Must be done right, no shortcuts.....
Am looking at doing rear battery myself soon.
Post pics when you done.....
EDIT: P.S. Run the cable down the left side if you still wanna install sound. Can not run on same side as RCA's and most power wires run on the left so keep it uniform.
i was told... 4 or 8 guage cable for postive and 0 guage for negetive...
Lol, Cuz, the standard power wiring is 4ga, and that's on a short distance, and on longer distance resistance increases, thus u go for a step up on cable thickness.....
Besides, as a good ground is required, I have still to see a ground cable burn out, its always the positive if to small..... Think about it in the car sound aspect, which power wire is always the one to heat up and discolor from the amperage? It's always the positive..... But yes, ground is equally as important....
today i went around... everyone said that 4guage is too small... coz of the voltage drop... i should use welding cable which cost like R400 for 4 metre...
as for the Battery box i find one for R85...
current vehicles...
1979 Corolla SR5
1996 S14 200sx
Well I don't know much about cables or specifically welding cable but my cable is thicker than the welding cable I know (actually its the same size but welding cable is double insulated so my cable has more copper)
again I have 25mm2 cable (i think that's 4 gauge, don't know), its the same size as BMW & Volvo use when running batteries in the rear of the vehicle, I checked as I wasn't sure my cable was thick enough.
you should probably just shop around as I paid R30 a meter, the "welding cable" they had was roughly the same price.
They had 0 gauge as well (R70-R80 p/meter iirc) but that didn't have nearly enough "bend" to get it through the car.
For anyone that's interested this is @ Volembo in Rosslyn, good prices to be had there.
Get the blue or grey welding cable and lugs (Ring terminals) from a wholesale electrical place.
Keens electrical sells those at R40/m.
Solder the lugs to the cable, do not crimp, the weight of the cable and vibration of the car will make a bad connection in no time with the crimp method.
Try not to expose any of the bare wire by heat shrinking the ends, for safety and corrosion protection (Welding cable does not have the anti oxidizing plating that a proper high quality car audio power cable has)
Buying a decent car audio power distribution block can go a long way in helping you make things safe and neat, especially if you get one with ANL fuses etc.
Use grommets or heavy duty sleeve to protect the cable were it goes through metal openings( firewall, boot area
Remember to put a proper fuse with a slightly higher rating directly after the positive at the battery(up to 15cm away max)
A good idea is to run the same size ground from the battery negative to the factory ground point in the engine bay(Copper is a better conductor than spot welded steel.)
I used Kicker 4AWG, for my positive and negative to the engine bay, no problem.
Not all power cables are made equally, the starsound or calibra 0AWG cable is about as thick as the Kicker or Rockford 4AWG.
Well my bat is in the back and it's sitting loose.... Never exploded ( yet ) but has lead to some embarrassing moments... Car not starting after a race etc
You aren't racing until your breaking shit... My SX is stuffed!!! Point proven
Tobie wrote:
A good idea is to run the same size ground from the battery negative to the factory ground point in the engine bay(Copper is a better conductor than spot welded steel.)
That has been enough for all the electronics on my R32, to reinforce your standard grounding points is not a bad Idea, but a point at every meter is a bit over kill.
A good negative is far superior than multiple half job ones.
aep886 wrote:does anyone with battery relocation experience voltage drop and causing electronic to break in the SX???
some one said if want to do it... i must earth it every metre or so...
is it necessary???
Ive relocated mine. Cant remember which cable i used. The voltage meter showed something like 11 point something volts when car was switched off. Cant realy remember to well actualy its been a while. But had no problems.
If you are fitting a front mounted intercooler fine but otherwise why move it to the back? Batteries also need to have proper ventilation as they discharge hydrogen gas when getting charged. I would rather run the incooler pipes another way and not go through the battery box or get one of thos 1/2 size batteries like some of the hondas has or similar. your choice though and yes put it in a proper battery box so acid etc does not go everywhere ruining everything.
regardless of the above mentioned. dont u guys slide ur cars around alot or is that a sx misconception. batteries are quite heavy and to be chukd about from side to side aint to safe for the battery and its contents as well as the car even if the thing is clamped down.
phoenix s14 wrote:If you are fitting a front mounted intercooler fine but otherwise why move it to the back? Batteries also need to have proper ventilation as they discharge hydrogen gas when getting charged. I would rather run the incooler pipes another way and not go through the battery box or get one of thos 1/2 size batteries like some of the hondas has or similar. your choice though and yes put it in a proper battery box so acid etc does not go everywhere ruining everything.
my 1c. Since it is al i have...
Proper car audio batteries are fully sealed, and can even be mounted upside down, that is what I have used.
