Manifold and turbo conversion

gregT · Post by **gregT** » Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:59 pm

Hi, i was wondering if swopping my existing manifold and turbo for a new tubular cast iron manifold and a T3/T4 would be a good idea. i phoned someone from a company and he suggested it. i asked about management and he sadi that stock management will run fine. im not looking for alot more extra power but am just thinking for the long run. would it be advisable.
thanks

The Calibrator · Post by **The Calibrator** » Sat Jun 23, 2007 3:43 pm

What kind of car would this be and what is its intended purpose? Its a Bad idea on a daily driver.
The advice to keep the stock management without doing anything to adjust for the bigger turbo must rank close to the top of the pile for stupid advice.

gregT · Post by **gregT** » Sat Jun 23, 2007 4:57 pm

it is a daily drive and its an s13 with ca18det. thats why i was a bit confused with the fact that no management system would be required. see the problem i have is that my turbo keeps blowing, and what i wanted to do is to send it in so that it wouldnt stand around in the garden, because i need to drive it to work etc. so i thought if i send it in it will be done and if i have any problems afterwards ill just send it in. ive removed my turo and manifold today(the reason why is because it made a siren type of sound after 3000) the shaft does have a bit of play which i think is a bit to much.

Phinx · Post by **Phinx** » Sat Jun 23, 2007 7:53 pm

I'm running a Tubular manifold and Custom Turbo with custom down-pipe @ 0.5 bar on my Car everyday with the stock management system with a slight bit of over fueling seen in the plugs and under heavy acceleration.

What boost do you plan to run? Whats the flow rate on this T3/T4?
I honestly don't see any issue, I know a few guys on Nico club running Gt28rs on the stock management and you could chip the ECU if needrd at a later stage with a chip from DR drift or somthing

Just my 10 cent ZIM

gregT · Post by **gregT** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 12:12 pm

thanks that 10 cent zim was worth more than the real zim cent. ill boost at 0.5-0.7 bar. not sure what flow rate it is. i was just thinking of doin it so that if i ever needed or wanted to up the power i have that done already. how much did yours all cost. cause i was thinking of about 8000.
thanks again

Ero_sennin · Post by **Ero_sennin** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 1:28 pm

I smell a storm comming

The Calibrator · Post by **The Calibrator** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 5:52 pm

What storm would that be? Because boy wonder is at it confusing the world again?

Opinions are like assholes everybody has one and they are all worth what you pay for them.
Use them dont use them its no skin off my nose.

Phinx · Post by **Phinx** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 6:35 pm

Opinions are like assholes everybody has one and they are all worth what you pay for them.
Use them dont use them its no skin off my nose.

Anyway

All in all it was :

R2000 for the Manifold
R1200 for the Down-pipe
R3000 for the Turbo - I got it from a good friend
R 800 for the gaskets and
R 100 to get the exhaust flange re-welded

So around R6100.

The manifold and turbo made a huge difference on my car . It made my car pull like a train in my eyes and I haven't blown a gasket yet touch wood .There is a Post with my Dyno sheet on the forum

Also gregT your welcome to come get a drive in my car and I will show you what I have done on the stock management ...

Vlade · Post by **Vlade** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 6:39 pm

gregT wrote: see the problem i have is that my turbo keeps blowing, and what i wanted to do is to send it in so that it wouldn't stand around in the garden, because i need to drive it to work etc

To me I think your trying to solve the problem the wrong way... I think its a lubrication / oiling problem, wrong oil or not enough oil... since you keep blowing turbo's... That or you turbo is over spinning for some reason boost leak / faulty actuator...

The stock manifold won't cause something like this... Tubular manifolds on the one hand aint a good idea either since they have the tendency to crack if used wrong...

If you havn't nailed the cause don't guess it, take it to a tuner like Calibrator let him find the cause and fix it for you. My 20 Zim dolla advice

Phinx · Post by **Phinx** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 6:50 pm

To me I think your trying to solve the problem the wrong way... I think its a lubrication / oiling problem, wrong oil or not enough oil... since you keep blowing turbo's... That or you turbo is over spinning for some reason boost leak / faulty actuator...

The stock manifold won't cause something like this... Tubular manifolds on the one hand aint a good idea either since they have the tendency to crack if used wrong...

Vlade Nailed it on the head

You could check your oil pressure, Oil inlet line and oil outlet . A good average "Mac" can help you out with Oil pressure check. You could check the other lines by yourself by removing them from the car when you remove the turbo...

Are you reconing the turbo? The guys at a Turbo recon place should be able to tell you why the unit failed.

P.s If it a Boost leak make a boost leak tester...
I have one : URL: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

My 5 cents Zim

gregT · Post by **gregT** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:56 pm

all these zim dollars are adding up here. maybe ill be rich one day, or not. thanks, i did check to see whether or not oil is passing through the turbo after the second time. the reason i think the first turbo blew was because it was from an import engine and from being freighted it was lying in water and over the time it rusted and collected sediment etc. the second time im not sure about so i want to find out what the problem is. but on the other jhand i still want to get the manifold and new turbo. the manifold is made from cast iron from the one quote that i got. maybe it would be best just to send it in and find out the problem, at least it will be done.
ya phinx that would be nice to feel your car(but not in that way). ill let you know when im in town, and will make a plan.
also how would i know if the actuator is gone?
thanks

Phinx · Post by **Phinx** » Sun Jun 24, 2007 9:35 pm

If the actuator is gone and jammed closed or not opening correctly It would show as boost spikes and over boosting if sticky.

If it was stuck partially open it would struggle to reach the set boost pressures and Maybe over spin and surge the turbo. Normal from what I have read the compressor wheel will get damaged or might disintegrate under these conditions .

Hennie is the man to talk to about these things, The guy has a mountain of knowledge his forgotten stuff I'm still learning...

veecee · Post by **veecee** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:42 am

gregT wrote: i did check to see whether or not oil is passing through the turbo after the second time.

when i first got a 200sx i did a lot of reading regarding the ca18det, and the sr20det!!!

i found that with the ca18det, there is a nasty tendency for the oil feed pipe to kink near the inlet to the turbo, where the hard pipe takes a nice little 90 degree bend. when i checked my car, it had the same issue, and it was the first mod i did on my car (in fact - i've left that off my garage details!!! oops)

this often happens when people remove, and put back, their turbo's!!!

so your turbo gets starved of oil, and it doesnt take long before it blows!

check out that oil feed line, in fact i would recommend replacing it with steel braided hose anyway!!!

and who is quoting you for a CAST IRON manifold, what does it look like, and what does it cost, and who made it!???!

Hennie Marais · Post by **Hennie Marais** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:52 am

Phinx wrote: Hennie is the man to talk to about these things, The guy has a mountain of knowledge his forgotten stuff I'm still learning...

Thanks for the complement, but I don't give advice or recommendations anymore.

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 3:56 pm

Thanks for the complement, but I don't give advice or recommendations anymore.

Hit them Hennie, hit them. Let them pay you