Audio / Sound system upgrades
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Audio / Sound system upgrades
I've been thinking of upgrading the sound system in my white SX for a while now... I would really appreciate some input from you guys wrt ideas, specs, product brands, etc.
The idea is to upgrade the entire system to sound as clear as possible without comprimising the look of the car and without any blatant evidence that the system has been upgraded. So it needs to look 100% original (door card covers to remain), yet sound 1000 times better than the stock setup.
Atm I have only upgraded the head unit to a Pioneer Double Din type. That is the only part that I dont mind not looking stock, but the rest has to.
Thanks, Nat
The idea is to upgrade the entire system to sound as clear as possible without comprimising the look of the car and without any blatant evidence that the system has been upgraded. So it needs to look 100% original (door card covers to remain), yet sound 1000 times better than the stock setup.
Atm I have only upgraded the head unit to a Pioneer Double Din type. That is the only part that I dont mind not looking stock, but the rest has to.
Thanks, Nat
'92 White S13
Hi Nat, first, I don't know whether you want to go with amplifiers or just off the radio, you need to decide on that.
you need to get what is called a split system for the doors, normally JBL have some good splits for a reasonable price, normally a 5 1/4" fits nicely, you get different ranges meaning power output, you need to go according to what you gonna run,amp or no amp.
You might be able to get 6" splits in but you need to make sure that the depth will not hamper your window.
From there I assume you don't want your backboard cut, if not, it's going to be hard to get clarity from the back, you might be able to fit a 4" in the oem space for the back, but that is not going to heald much more than stock sound.
You can fit ether a set of splits in the back bourd from the bottom or go 6*9's, mostly people keep the oem board and make a aftermarket for the speakers, instead of cutting holes that will expose the speakers, mount them from the bottom as I said with very thin speaker mesh flush on top before couvering with carpet, this will make it look stock and not be visible that there is speakers.
Then you need to decide if you running amps and whether you want a sub ot 2, I will advise further as soon as you tell me what you want.
you need to get what is called a split system for the doors, normally JBL have some good splits for a reasonable price, normally a 5 1/4" fits nicely, you get different ranges meaning power output, you need to go according to what you gonna run,amp or no amp.
You might be able to get 6" splits in but you need to make sure that the depth will not hamper your window.
From there I assume you don't want your backboard cut, if not, it's going to be hard to get clarity from the back, you might be able to fit a 4" in the oem space for the back, but that is not going to heald much more than stock sound.
You can fit ether a set of splits in the back bourd from the bottom or go 6*9's, mostly people keep the oem board and make a aftermarket for the speakers, instead of cutting holes that will expose the speakers, mount them from the bottom as I said with very thin speaker mesh flush on top before couvering with carpet, this will make it look stock and not be visible that there is speakers.
Then you need to decide if you running amps and whether you want a sub ot 2, I will advise further as soon as you tell me what you want.
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Thanks Derick
I do not neccesarily want to install and amplifier and yes I definitely do NOT want to cut the back board..
I don't want to go overboard with the install as I want it "fairly stock" sounding like a factory system fitted in a new BMW for example (can't believe I just typed that... lol)
Thanks for your input!
I do not neccesarily want to install and amplifier and yes I definitely do NOT want to cut the back board..
I don't want to go overboard with the install as I want it "fairly stock" sounding like a factory system fitted in a new BMW for example (can't believe I just typed that... lol)
Thanks for your input!
'92 White S13
I have 6 1/2" JBL GTO splits in the doors, all you need to do is trim a small bit off the back of the doorcard - looks completely stock.
Also JBL and infinity make 4x6" speakers that will fit in the OEM brackets.
DO NOT install splits in the back - it's useless.
Run dedicated good quality speaker wires - the old OEM speaker wires are now very old and I would avoid using them.
Also JBL and infinity make 4x6" speakers that will fit in the OEM brackets.
DO NOT install splits in the back - it's useless.
Run dedicated good quality speaker wires - the old OEM speaker wires are now very old and I would avoid using them.


1) He wants a hidden/stock looking install.
2) paying a lot of $$$ for splits only to put the tweeter where they don't improve sound stage is stupid as you don't really gain anything. This would then make co-axials far better value and easier to install.
That's it, no more thread jacking his post.
2) paying a lot of $$$ for splits only to put the tweeter where they don't improve sound stage is stupid as you don't really gain anything. This would then make co-axials far better value and easier to install.
That's it, no more thread jacking his post.


True in his case, much easier to install but far from BMW cuality sound....if you want the car to sound like the average golf speaker put a 6x4 in the back.Enzio wrote:1) He wants a hidden/stock looking install.
2) paying a lot of $$$ for splits only to put the tweeter where they don't improve sound stage is stupid as you don't really gain anything. This would then make co-axials far better value and easier to install.
If you have a capable head unit without amps you will definately improve sound stage with splits, the only way splits will not improve sound stage is if you put them in the same spot, that will be almost the same as an coaxle....seperating the mid from the tweeter is where sound stage will improve as you said in not so many words. but you will be able to separate the tweeter and put it in a not so obveous space to emprove sound stage and quality.
You right....thats it, no more highjacking....
Last edited by Draco on Wed Jan 12, 2011 8:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
I see the JBL 4x6" speakers are R595, not sure if that is good or not but I think I might try a set. I currently have 5 1/4" sony in the fornt doors with adapter cards and they are good but I would like to get back to the original 4x6" all round.
DriftZ: "I swear if a CA18 beats my SR im getting a RB!"
Those are the JBL's Autostyle sell?? Had a look at them - should be OK, they are GTO series IIRC and I think they are 60W, which means the head unit can drive them. Should be a HUGE improvement over stock.
Look 6x4 is not ideal for sound quality, but it is the best compromise as it mounts in the OEM spot.
Look 6x4 is not ideal for sound quality, but it is the best compromise as it mounts in the OEM spot.


DLS is a highly recommended brand.
6 1/2 inch coaxial or split would work great!
Don't get heavy speakers and sound deadening for a sports car.
Lightweight cockpit liner, like the ones they use on airplanes or the cheaper alternative, orange carpet under veldt can be used in the doors to deal with the back wave cancellation etc.
If you buy the best front stage (Head unit/speaker wires/speakers) you can afford now, you can maybe avoid buying amps and subs for now.
If you want a little more power buy the best 4 channel amp you can afford add a sub later to one set of bridgeable channels and run the front stage from the other two.
Do not bother with rear stage, as you would need to much possessing power to create the musically correct ambiances.
If you can find a head unit with time alignment and a 7 band or more equalizer built in you will be many steps ahead to make it sound 1000 time better than the stock stuff.
Hope it helps.
6 1/2 inch coaxial or split would work great!
Don't get heavy speakers and sound deadening for a sports car.
Lightweight cockpit liner, like the ones they use on airplanes or the cheaper alternative, orange carpet under veldt can be used in the doors to deal with the back wave cancellation etc.
If you buy the best front stage (Head unit/speaker wires/speakers) you can afford now, you can maybe avoid buying amps and subs for now.
If you want a little more power buy the best 4 channel amp you can afford add a sub later to one set of bridgeable channels and run the front stage from the other two.
Do not bother with rear stage, as you would need to much possessing power to create the musically correct ambiances.
If you can find a head unit with time alignment and a 7 band or more equalizer built in you will be many steps ahead to make it sound 1000 time better than the stock stuff.
Hope it helps.
400m = 11.9sec @ 187km/h @ Midvaal
Nat, if you just going to run speakers, it is best to get a good head unit, I know you said you already got a pioneer bubble oven
, don't know what model, but if it is good you will have a grafic eq in there aswell as a sub sonic filter, if you get 2 good sets of splits and install it right, you will have a nice stock look and it will sound very good.
I would recommed if you think of an amp in the future, for best quality, get a small monoblock or digital for sub, and then a good stereo for the splits, it is always better for sound quality/stage to separate the signal, you will be able to set up your system almost perfectly....sub sonic freq where it should be and mid and high where that should be.
As you have the money
, Zapco makes great amps and very small and nimble, you won't have big space issues....unless you want monsters....which I am sure you don't.

I would recommed if you think of an amp in the future, for best quality, get a small monoblock or digital for sub, and then a good stereo for the splits, it is always better for sound quality/stage to separate the signal, you will be able to set up your system almost perfectly....sub sonic freq where it should be and mid and high where that should be.
As you have the money

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