Copper Questions - Need Advice
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- 0.6 Bar Boost
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Copper Questions - Need Advice
As some might know, I'm currently replacing my Exhaust Manifold Gaskets.
I heard copper gaskets are much better then standard ones, as they take alot higher temperatures & can expand & contract with the metal.
To an extent I believe it as the bolts around the turbo & the washers on the turbo & water lines are all copper.
I can get a small sheet of 2mm copper, which I want to use. Can I use it as is? Will it work?
Is 2mm to thin or too thick?
I want to put the copper between the manifold & engine & manifold & turbo.
Here's another quick question. I went out & bought copper bolts for the turbo(manifold to turbo) & also got copper bolts for the manifold as well(manifold to engine) The guy told me this will work fine, considering the original bolts are steel.
Any thoughts/advice will be welcomed.
Also consider the locking plates for the turbo bolts are also copper.
I heard copper gaskets are much better then standard ones, as they take alot higher temperatures & can expand & contract with the metal.
To an extent I believe it as the bolts around the turbo & the washers on the turbo & water lines are all copper.
I can get a small sheet of 2mm copper, which I want to use. Can I use it as is? Will it work?
Is 2mm to thin or too thick?
I want to put the copper between the manifold & engine & manifold & turbo.
Here's another quick question. I went out & bought copper bolts for the turbo(manifold to turbo) & also got copper bolts for the manifold as well(manifold to engine) The guy told me this will work fine, considering the original bolts are steel.
Any thoughts/advice will be welcomed.
Also consider the locking plates for the turbo bolts are also copper.
Steer From the Rear !!


- widowmaker
- 200SX Maniac
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heh - you got smoked! R100 is a rip - R20 is the going rate. faaark - i know a oke that paid a buddy coke as the 'contraction fee'widowmaker wrote:i haven't read any of this, but a long time ago a copper expanded out of his astra, i gave the copper R100, and he contracted into his astra - problem solved
I would just buy Nissan gaskets
Its what I'm doing with my tubular manifold
Its what I'm doing with my tubular manifold
A.K.A - Wonderboy
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1993 Nissan 200 SX
148 Kw - 250 NM @ 0.55 bar. 1.8T ATW
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1989 Toyota Corrola
63kw - 117nm 1.3- N/A
18.2 @118,4 Km - Rainbow Raceway
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1993 Nissan 200 SX
148 Kw - 250 NM @ 0.55 bar. 1.8T ATW
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1989 Toyota Corrola
63kw - 117nm 1.3- N/A
18.2 @118,4 Km - Rainbow Raceway
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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- 0.4 Bar Boost
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1st
You can use copper gaskets however they have to be annealed before use.
2nd
Copper Bolts? will not be up to the job. The "copper" nuts are bactually steel with a copper flash coating.
I suggest new Wurth studs remember 10x1.25 not 10x1.50 with new "copper" nuts also in 10x1.25 not the industry norm of 10x1.5.
You can use copper gaskets however they have to be annealed before use.
2nd
Copper Bolts? will not be up to the job. The "copper" nuts are bactually steel with a copper flash coating.
I suggest new Wurth studs remember 10x1.25 not 10x1.50 with new "copper" nuts also in 10x1.25 not the industry norm of 10x1.5.
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- 0.6 Bar Boost
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okay, this is what I found out so far on annealing
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Many of our old engines use copper gaskets, particularly when you have a removable cylinder (eg. Lister diesels and petrol engines, Southern Cross Engines, and many others). The copper gaskets are used as both shims and seals to between the crank case and the cylinder. Some engines used copper for head gaskets (I have a Rosebery 3C vertical which has a copper head gasket). The copper gaskets can be reused but need to be softened (or annealed) first.
"
"
Many of our old engines use copper gaskets, particularly when you have a removable cylinder (eg. Lister diesels and petrol engines, Southern Cross Engines, and many others). The copper gaskets are used as both shims and seals to between the crank case and the cylinder. Some engines used copper for head gaskets (I have a Rosebery 3C vertical which has a copper head gasket). The copper gaskets can be reused but need to be softened (or annealed) first.
"
Steer From the Rear !!


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- 0.6 Bar Boost
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Okay here is something else I read.
I can heat copper up to 500 degrees and then allow to cool down. Apparently the cool down period is unimportant. where I dip it in water & leave it to air cool doesn't matter.
Copper is in a hard form or soft form. The soft form is what this process is getting to. You can take hard copper which can handle 10 to 14 tons per inch, anneal it & then it becomes soft copper which can handle 20 to 24 tons per inch.
My next question. Where can I buy soft copper? & will the bastard on the other end of the counter know what the fark I'm talking about.
I can heat copper up to 500 degrees and then allow to cool down. Apparently the cool down period is unimportant. where I dip it in water & leave it to air cool doesn't matter.
Copper is in a hard form or soft form. The soft form is what this process is getting to. You can take hard copper which can handle 10 to 14 tons per inch, anneal it & then it becomes soft copper which can handle 20 to 24 tons per inch.
My next question. Where can I buy soft copper? & will the bastard on the other end of the counter know what the fark I'm talking about.
Steer From the Rear !!


- Daniel
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i used a copper gasket between the mani-turbo. It lasted all of a week! my exhaust is blowing
I did have a bit of a high boost incident (1.4bar guessometer) but that was once and then i fixed the actuator.
To be honest im not positive yet its the copper one that went. but thats the one i suspect. Nissan gasket will go there now either tonight or tomorrow.

To be honest im not positive yet its the copper one that went. but thats the one i suspect. Nissan gasket will go there now either tonight or tomorrow.
sig[/sig]
Firstly annealing is a Harding process. The copper (or whatever metal) is heated up slowly and then it is cooled down very fast (or as fast as possible without distorting the material) to make it hard. They normally dip the glowing metal into a chemical bath to add in the cooling down process.
Now there are also variations of annealing. One is when a product is heated up and place in a control environment and allowed to cool VERY slowly, sometimes up to 18hours. This makes the material softer and more malleable. This is usually done before the forming of the steel takes place and then the finished product is annealed again (to harden it).
I used 1.6mm copper between my turbo and manifold. Annealing of it is not nessesary because it is between two square surfaces and therefore distortion can taking place.
Now there are also variations of annealing. One is when a product is heated up and place in a control environment and allowed to cool VERY slowly, sometimes up to 18hours. This makes the material softer and more malleable. This is usually done before the forming of the steel takes place and then the finished product is annealed again (to harden it).
I used 1.6mm copper between my turbo and manifold. Annealing of it is not nessesary because it is between two square surfaces and therefore distortion can taking place.