New Turbo

Discussion of technical issues and ideas (engine, chassis)

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Draco
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Post by Draco »

Well if you are going to boost 1bar it won't....but a Garret won't either.....if you stay at 0.8 I am sure you will be ok....phone them and ask what the maximum relyeble boost is......

You must remember, the bigger your compressor wheel the less rpm it needs to make a certain boost.....where you have a 46mm exhaust wheel and a 50mm compressor wheel you will need more rpm to boost, small exhaust wheel 46mm an a 60mm compressor wheel.....less rpm to make the same boost.....

Think of a bycicle....big in front small in the back....less rpm but more "speed"
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Riekert
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Post by Riekert »

Ok... so it will go go faster quicker... mmm.... Dammit! I hate having to choose!!
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Doctor G
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Post by Doctor G »

Draco wrote: You must remember, the bigger your compressor wheel the less rpm it needs to make a certain boost.....where you have a 46mm exhaust wheel and a 50mm compressor wheel you will need more rpm to boost, small exhaust wheel 46mm an a 60mm compressor wheel.....less rpm to make the same boost.....
That sounds good. I mean I'd rather boost 0.8 bar from 3500-7500rpm instead of 1.1bar but only reach that between 5500-7500rpm.
But what are the drawbacks? of this setup?

I mean there must be some, else why would they still make small compressor wheels?
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Post by widowmaker »

havent had my car up to speed for a while, but i'd say usability

i remember using to wish my car spooled up a bit higher - cozof at 120/140kmph it was already boosting, eating up sous and making it necessary to constantly check your speedo for speedcops - so your right foot goes on/of/on/off making long distance a bit more painful.

just a thought - cant remember...
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TheSpanner
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Post by TheSpanner »

also, I am sure you won't get as much power. seeing as the turbo has to do more work per turn...

think about the bicycle, the biger your front spoke, the less quickly you need to turn the pedals to get high speed, but to get to speed is very hard work
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Riekert
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Post by Riekert »

So what I gather here is the T28 Garret is still the better option...
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Draco
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Post by Draco »

Riekert....think about the basics.....you are going to buy a second hand Garret....R2000.....if your lucky, no garentee, then a rebuild, anything from R1600 to 3000 for that.....

The Mr. Turbo turbo comes with a garentee, with an obtion of setups, you can always source a second hand housing AR 64 for a garret and so on, in the end you will "maybe" not have the power of a garret(which is all speculative) but you will be much damn better off than a T25, plus you have a turbo that has parts availeble, for the garret they alway charge you because it's a garret......but I am almost 100% sure they use these "crap" parts to rebuild garret turbos......

It is your choice, a garret T28 has a bigger exhaust housing for more flow. but lag becomes more, remember something, even if you have T61 with a AR48 flow ratio, it will still flow much better than a T25 with a AR48 flow ratio.....it is a bigger turbo after all.....the small housing on a bigger turbo is there to assist the cancellation of lag....
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Post by veecee »

riekert - i say if you can, go for the mr turbo t28?

the fact that you can choose your specs is nice

the price is nice (its a new turbo for less than the cost of a rebuild on a used turbo). my T25 cost over 4 grand to rebuild cos it was that FUBAR! also my R4200-00 rebuilt T25 (done by turbo exchange) only lasted 1 year! 1 year! thats about 20 000km's! then i had to change it out!

if the turbo is FUBAR in a couple of years time then you can just get another one for less than the cost of the rebuild!!! actually - scratch that - mr turbo sells rebuild parts for all their turbos! see - easy!
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Draco
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Post by Draco »

veecee wrote:mr turbo sells rebuild parts for all their turbos! see - easy!
plus you have a turbo that has parts availeble
See....even VC agrees......can you believe it.....believe it cos it's true
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Post by Vlade »

mario_200sx wrote:MR. Turbo is a MR. Turbo..... :lol:
Fong Kong... Same as that fake Master Power stuff that have been going around... check on you tube, people say that stuff splits :shock:
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Post by Riekert »

Thanx draco and VC. I (you) have made up my mind!:twisted: :twisted:


I'll call the guys from Mr Turbo today to find out the prices and so on. And yes, I don't like turbo lag and I'm definitely not paying R3000 for a recon!


Plus its a local company so I do have some after sales service!
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Riekert
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Post by Riekert »

Vlade wrote:
mario_200sx wrote:MR. Turbo is a MR. Turbo..... :lol:
Fong Kong... Same as that fake Master Power stuff that have been going around... check on you tube, people say that stuff splits :shock:
Well If it breaks I can still send it to the Mr Turbo guys and ask WTF? but if its a import then I'm a bit screwed...
Enzio wrote:Who needs ligths? When you're going sideways forward facing lights don't do anything but confuse squirrels and sheep next to the road...


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Draco
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Post by Draco »

Riekert, when you get it, remember to take pics with the 2 together so we can see the differences....also ask the maximum boost it will be relyeble on and make sure of the manifold flange fit....also ask about the internal waste gate and actuator.......let them know what your plans is and so on so they can give you the optimum setup....
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Riekert
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Post by Riekert »

Draco wrote:Riekert, when you get it, remember to take pics with the 2 together so we can see the differences....also ask the maximum boost it will be relyeble on and make sure of the manifold flange fit....also ask about the internal waste gate and actuator.......let them know what your plans is and so on so they can give you the optimum setup....
Will do man! will do! Oh and what should I ask about the internal wastegate and actuator?
Enzio wrote:Who needs ligths? When you're going sideways forward facing lights don't do anything but confuse squirrels and sheep next to the road...


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Draco
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Post by Draco »

Make sure it has one(internal waste gate and actuator) and if it's a 1 bar actuator or less.....
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