Copper Questions - Need Advice
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- 0.6 Bar Boost
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@Gary.
According to the stuff on the net, annealing softens copper & cool down time whether quickly or slowly, doesn't matter as the result is still the same.
Apparently, this applies to copper & not other materials.
I'm also just pulling stuff that I have found & have no personal experience on it.
Can you use the same gasket inbetween the cylinder head & manifold?
Is 2mm to thick too use as well?
According to the stuff on the net, annealing softens copper & cool down time whether quickly or slowly, doesn't matter as the result is still the same.
Apparently, this applies to copper & not other materials.
I'm also just pulling stuff that I have found & have no personal experience on it.
Can you use the same gasket inbetween the cylinder head & manifold?
Is 2mm to thick too use as well?
Steer From the Rear !!


No matter what material it is the fundamental molecular structure is the same. It will harden when cooled fast and soften when cooled slow. I have experience with as I send parts for hardening.
Between the manifold and head I just used those cheap gaskets from the local spares shop. Smother it with silicone and your A for away. I made a steel gasket for a Toyota supercharged motor that a guy had turbo-ed and got it laser cut in 6mm mild steel and then machined it down to 5mm, worked perfectly. But I am sure 2mm will be fine, just make sure its square.
Between the manifold and head I just used those cheap gaskets from the local spares shop. Smother it with silicone and your A for away. I made a steel gasket for a Toyota supercharged motor that a guy had turbo-ed and got it laser cut in 6mm mild steel and then machined it down to 5mm, worked perfectly. But I am sure 2mm will be fine, just make sure its square.
- Vlade
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Woohaa I'd just stick with some Nissan like gaskets or Payen ones... Remember not that shiny 3 layer ones... they will last for a trip around the block...
Take those Nissan type gasket put a thin layer of gasket maker (I use Locktite Grey) on both sides of the gasket and tighten down with some decent copper nuts like what Duane mentioned, don't over tighten they strip easily.
That will last, for about 50 000-100 000km if you are not running lean. If you run lean you exhaust gets FREAKING hot... I mean so hot it glows.
Take those Nissan type gasket put a thin layer of gasket maker (I use Locktite Grey) on both sides of the gasket and tighten down with some decent copper nuts like what Duane mentioned, don't over tighten they strip easily.
That will last, for about 50 000-100 000km if you are not running lean. If you run lean you exhaust gets FREAKING hot... I mean so hot it glows.
Hairdresser MX5
@Woohaa if you only down for the weekend you wont get it done, all of that will take about a week.
@Vlade I am just using normal cheap crappy gaskets (R14 each) with a SHIT load of silicone. My exhaust get to 900degrees on a good run, the turbo is almost see throught at that temp and its fine. Between the turbo and manifold I am using a copper gasket.
If I wanted this done with the least amount of fuss I would go buy normal gaskets (obvious Payne or Nissan is a better option) and then a tube silicone. Just some advise when you tighten you bolts make them tight but as the manifold heats up and then cools down it will settle in its place and WILL need to be retightened when cold again. Use copper slip on the nuts, makes them easier to take off next time.
@Vlade I am just using normal cheap crappy gaskets (R14 each) with a SHIT load of silicone. My exhaust get to 900degrees on a good run, the turbo is almost see throught at that temp and its fine. Between the turbo and manifold I am using a copper gasket.
If I wanted this done with the least amount of fuss I would go buy normal gaskets (obvious Payne or Nissan is a better option) and then a tube silicone. Just some advise when you tighten you bolts make them tight but as the manifold heats up and then cools down it will settle in its place and WILL need to be retightened when cold again. Use copper slip on the nuts, makes them easier to take off next time.
Just use Plan Nissan Gaskets.
Are you going to run crazy boost? Or something
I have had my fair share of blown exhaust gaskets and the truth is I was using cheap stuff.
Pay the R350 rand for the Nissan stuff and you will be happy.
I am
Are you going to run crazy boost? Or something
I have had my fair share of blown exhaust gaskets and the truth is I was using cheap stuff.
Pay the R350 rand for the Nissan stuff and you will be happy.
I am
A.K.A - Wonderboy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1993 Nissan 200 SX
148 Kw - 250 NM @ 0.55 bar. 1.8T ATW
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1989 Toyota Corrola
63kw - 117nm 1.3- N/A
18.2 @118,4 Km - Rainbow Raceway
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1993 Nissan 200 SX
148 Kw - 250 NM @ 0.55 bar. 1.8T ATW
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1989 Toyota Corrola
63kw - 117nm 1.3- N/A
18.2 @118,4 Km - Rainbow Raceway
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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- 0.6 Bar Boost
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Yeah, gonna get Nissan stuff.
Going to run 0.9 bar boost once the gaskets are run in nice.
Maybe I can ask it here as well.
Do I modify the actuator to increase the boost, should I use a boost controller?
I also think my car suffers from boost creep. I read about this which says the actuautor is not 100% closed. How can I resolve this.
Apparently that's how they run standard.....I don't like boost creep.
Going to run 0.9 bar boost once the gaskets are run in nice.
Maybe I can ask it here as well.
Do I modify the actuator to increase the boost, should I use a boost controller?
I also think my car suffers from boost creep. I read about this which says the actuautor is not 100% closed. How can I resolve this.
Apparently that's how they run standard.....I don't like boost creep.
Steer From the Rear !!


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- 0.4 Bar Boost
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A little tip to make sure your gaskets last inbetween the turbo to manifold and downpipe.
Take a centre punch and lightly tap it wif a hammer while allowing it to bounce around on the gasket surface.
This allows the gasket faces to "bite" into the gasket making sure the gasket moves with the expansion and contraction.
this has cured a few "problem" cars allready.
Take a centre punch and lightly tap it wif a hammer while allowing it to bounce around on the gasket surface.
This allows the gasket faces to "bite" into the gasket making sure the gasket moves with the expansion and contraction.
this has cured a few "problem" cars allready.
- Daniel
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This is whats left of my copper gasket

wonder where the rest went
Wonder if its the reason my turbo is smoking like a B1TCH all of a sudden!!! Its fcuken krazy i cant take it anymore. 700km fcuken old
Got a new gasket from Nissan for R180. Its metal and looks really good! the one that was on there b4 the copper one looked like a type of paper gasket
I thought that was Nissans.

wonder where the rest went

Wonder if its the reason my turbo is smoking like a B1TCH all of a sudden!!! Its fcuken krazy i cant take it anymore. 700km fcuken old


Got a new gasket from Nissan for R180. Its metal and looks really good! the one that was on there b4 the copper one looked like a type of paper gasket

sig[/sig]
- widowmaker
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but i'm quite sure he knows about copper nuts!!!!widowmaker wrote:what? me? never!WooHaa wrote:Widowmaker, I know this is an opportunity to comment on the above statement, but please refrain.....
I'm begging dude!
(i dont know all that much about gaskets)
BAM! you never expect the spanish inquisition!
when i rebuilt my engine a while back - i just coughed up for a full nissan rebuild kit. it came with a nifty tube of red silicone (probably the best i've come across), and some decent gaskets.
that lot has lasted me about 12 000km's already, and has seen some track use!
go with the nissan gaskets - i reckon although its hectic expensive, its justified by little hassle.
ReeceZ wrote:I'm sorry... I couldn't help it. Please no one wish any hateful shit on me, I own an SX already
- widowmaker
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