Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

even though oil is changed before its too drty... the dirt that's getting in I would say is gouging the pots

So what's it going to be then. I am confused...does the dirt going into the cylinders with the air via the compressor blades, then out the exhaust as hot dirty/gritty gas, hitting the turbine blades and going out the exhaust pipe actually affect the colour of the oil? Please explain, anyone. I would still like to know which would be the safest cone filter to install. I am thinking of changing my stock filter out for one that I can service and re-use.

I know its a bit longwinded. but did u read that link that one of the guys posted. it tells u everything. conclusion: the hp u gain by a low restriction filter is minimal, but the effects it has on ur motor is quite harmful

anyone please stop me if I'm wrong

I have owned to SX's thus far in life.
The first one had a pad filter which sat in the original air box, but the bottom of the air box was cut out.

The second, which is the one I own now has a cone filter.

The only difference I feel, is that the oil gets dirty more quickly with the cone.
On my first SX I could change oil every 7000km as this is when I noticed the oil getting darker.

On current SX I change oil every 5000km as this is when I notice the oil getting dirtier.

the other problem with the cone, is that when it's standing till she is sucking more hotter air as well.
i want to build an enclosure for this to stop happening.

So the verdict. I prefer the cone, but it is higher maintenance (more oil changes) Performance is also better.
O'yes the AFM also gets more dirtier, so you gotta clean that everytime as well.
Another down side, when cleaning engine bay, don't hose the filter, water just gets into the turbo & AFM.

Just My thoughts

Ja but you only using a simota ??

So what's it going to be then. I am confused...does the dirt going into the cylinders with the air via the compressor blades, then out the exhaust as hot dirty/gritty gas, hitting the turbine blades and going out the exhaust pipe actually affect the colour of the oil? Please explain, anyone. I would still like to know which would be the safest cone filter to install. I am thinking of changing my stock filter out for one that I can service and re-use.

I am back to paper filter. I stay with the stock air box. What I have done to the stock air box was to force the air in on the side of the box. Cone filters if not sealed seperately from the engine bay, results in a lot of heat. Surely this must make sence?

Cone filters if not sealed seperately from the engine bay, results in a lot of heat. Surely this must make sence

At last someone with a brain pipes up:)

Thats why BMC CDA FTW.
What I see is people with cotton air filters do not oil them after washing and that is critical. Without oiling they dont filter properly.

I have seen Off road racing cars run ning BMC filters properly oiled change filters 3 times during an event they get so dirty but the motor lasted many seasons and may in fact still be running without opening.

What about the simota mushroom filters.

I stick with my arguement... would you rather suck hot air or suck through a restriction?? If you suck hot are the incooler should sort it out anyway. If you are sucking through a restriction the turbo needs to work harder and in turn makes more more heat.

What about the simota mushroom filters.

Same problem. They just suck up your bling/momey.

Freddie did you IAT go down when you fitted the STD airbox??

stick with my arguement... would you rather suck hot air or suck through a restriction?? If you suck hot are the incooler should sort it out anyway. If you are sucking through a restriction the turbo needs to work harder and in turn makes more more heat.

There is science and proof available = Air temp going up with one degree Celcius, corrosponds to power loss etc. Simple, colder the air in, less work to be done by the rest of your set up. Your stock air box is not the culprit if it comes to restriction. It is rather your AFM item. Yes the pipe after the AFM towards the turbo inlet, need your attention. Check previous posts by Calibrator and the double sided fibre glass flexible pipe. If you dont seal your mushroom or cone = heat sucked up. Maintain stock filter regulary with paper filter. Cheaper, easier etc. No science proofing that oil, foam, and others are that inferior(is that the wright word? = the best). But please dont quote SnS tests. Stock air filter is at least closed and mainly isolated from the worst heat. If you want to use mushroom or cone, go for it. Just try and seal it off. That is the bottom line.

Yes I agree with you if you are planning on modifying your stock air box.

Did you IAT go up or down when you replaced the cone filter with the stock air box.

Freddie did you IAT go down when you fitted the STD airbox??

My stock air flter was off for not longer than an hour - remember I said on a previus thread, that the sx would not dyna properly with the cone? At that stage my unichip was still not fitted to compensate for shortfalls. So basically my stock airbox was never out. I dont have temp sens to measure IAT yet. I am still trying to get hold of one from Toyota as is yours, but with no luck. I need the part number to try again. I once measured the inlet temp with a temp sens(lying around on my bench) temporarily fitted in front of the TB. The turbo leaked out there, which was not good, but I did measure 13-19 deg celcius for some moments. So the stock air box not that relevant to your question. Cant answer that way. Still need to do it properly the way you are doing it wright now.

I have a question for you young dudes out there. Serious! The resonator on the side of the stock air box? What is it doing there? What HAPPENS if you remove it. Once removed, what if any influence will there be on the science of the stock air box? Will we loose valuable air through that round siff or not?

And Pimp, what happened to my scorpion @ the bottom with my signature???