Clutch n Brake and boost Problem
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- Drillergy
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Clutch n Brake and boost Problem
Hi
1. My clutch fluid(Brake fluid) keeps coking, and its difficult to select gears when the car is cold, especially 1st and reverse. When the car heats up its fine and works perfectly.
I flushed the system but it started again can anyone advise whats up?
Is the master cylinder going or whats causing it to do this?
2. Dos anyone have the Ferrodo part number for the rear brake pads?
3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??
Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?
If I set it to hard would this help?
Any hel from the guru's would be appreciated.
Shotalot
1. My clutch fluid(Brake fluid) keeps coking, and its difficult to select gears when the car is cold, especially 1st and reverse. When the car heats up its fine and works perfectly.
I flushed the system but it started again can anyone advise whats up?
Is the master cylinder going or whats causing it to do this?
2. Dos anyone have the Ferrodo part number for the rear brake pads?
3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??
Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?
If I set it to hard would this help?
Any hel from the guru's would be appreciated.
Shotalot
1. Change your gear box oil not you clutch fluid.
2. Ferrodo dont make rear pads, use ATE.
3. Better throttle response, yes. Revs faster no.
If it is cheap kak knock off then yes it could be leaking esspecially if its on its softest level. Try setting the BOV harder and see if it improves.
2. Ferrodo dont make rear pads, use ATE.
3. Better throttle response, yes. Revs faster no.
If it is cheap kak knock off then yes it could be leaking esspecially if its on its softest level. Try setting the BOV harder and see if it improves.
DriftZ: "I swear if a CA18 beats my SR im getting a RB!"
- Pinkfluffybunnys
- Over Boosting
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Does it rev faster before or during boost?3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??
Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?
If I set it to hard would this help?
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
- Drillergy
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Before boostPinkfluffybunnys wrote:Does it rev faster before or during boost?3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??
Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?
If I set it to hard would this help?
- Pinkfluffybunnys
- Over Boosting
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Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:
Quote:
3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??
Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?
If I set it to hard would this help?
Does it rev faster before or during boost?
Before boost
Hmmm
Heres my theory as I cant prove it, Your BOV is sticking slightly open sucking in air, leaning out the AFR causing the increased throttle response and increased revving until the vacuum reaches zero and the bov closes.
Its easy to check spray a little car cleaner into the bov, if the rev's dropthen the item is leaking
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
- Charlvdw
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Good theory!Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:
Quote:
3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??
Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?
If I set it to hard would this help?
Does it rev faster before or during boost?
Before boost
Hmmm
Heres my theory as I cant prove it, Your BOV is sticking slightly open sucking in air, leaning out the AFR causing the increased throttle response and increased revving until the vacuum reaches zero and the bov closes.
Its easy to check spray a little car cleaner into the bov, if the rev's dropthen the item is leaking

- Drillergy
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Well you are very logical and it makes sense so I'll givit a try, with Carb cleaner though lolCharlvdw wrote:Good theory!Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:
Quote:
3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??
Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?
If I set it to hard would this help?
Does it rev faster before or during boost?
Before boost
Hmmm
Heres my theory as I cant prove it, Your BOV is sticking slightly open sucking in air, leaning out the AFR causing the increased throttle response and increased revving until the vacuum reaches zero and the bov closes.
Its easy to check spray a little car cleaner into the bov, if the rev's dropthen the item is leaking

Anyways, our company over paid us for a couple of months so now Im in a financial fix for a few months and I need some help.
This weekend Im gonna have to change my G/Box oil myself, is it simple?
How is is done?
How many Litres do I have to fill?
How do I drain what is left?
Wehere do you fill the oil?
Can PFB or Gary or who ever did it before give me a step by step guide on how its done.
Thanks
D
- Pinkfluffybunnys
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Basically what Charlvdw said but I fill the box through the shifter because the correct filler bolt is a biatch to fill through.
I do loosen the nut to check the level
I do loosen the nut to check the level
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
- Riekert
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think its like 3lt? or 2.5...Drillergy wrote:ok I got it.Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:Basically what Charlvdw said but I fill the box through the shifter because the correct filler bolt is a biatch to fill through.
I do loosen the nut to check the level
How did you fill it through the shifter????
+/- how many litres does it take?
you need to ondo all the shifter bolts (6) and then move it over and pour it in. also did it that way, but my g/box was totally drained.. so didn't need to check the levels.
Enzio wrote:Who needs ligths? When you're going sideways forward facing lights don't do anything but confuse squirrels and sheep next to the road...
aka The Overlord