Engine Swap

Discussion of technical issues and ideas (engine, chassis)

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ReeceZ
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Post by ReeceZ »

I'm also planning on going SR, rather have a slightly worked one and spend some money getting the car lighter. better power to weight :D
Hard work never killed anybody, but why take a chance?
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RB25SX
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Post by RB25SX »

Sokar wrote: You missing a few things in your grocery list.
ECU?
Custom Prop?
Custom Mounts?
Radiator Upgrade?
Tuning?
That is just a cost comparison to a SR20 and RB25, what you have to spend to get 250kw.
You have to spend about the same on turbo upgrade with a SR20, but then need bigger injectors, more boost and less reliabilaty to get the same power as a RB25. Shane has 350kw on his std RB25DET with bolt on mods.
Read my "RB26 into S14" in the articles section and you will see what has to be done to fit a RB. Its more work than parts cost.

Why always mention a brake upgrade as a must when you fir a RB ? Think the extra weight is less than a average passenger, so then the argument should be to upgrade your brakes if you take a passenger in your car :wink:
Last edited by RB25SX on Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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RB25SX
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Post by RB25SX »

ReeceZ wrote:I'm also planning on going SR, rather have a slightly worked one and spend some money getting the car lighter. better power to weight :D
I also think SR is better if you want a lighter car for track driving.
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Drillergy
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Post by Drillergy »

You probably right but I would feel safer with better brakes if I was driving a car with 250kw. I experience alot of brake fade on my S13 when I drive hard and my car is stock.
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ReeceZ
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Post by ReeceZ »

That's what I wana use it for, bit of track, street... and hopefully drift.
Hard work never killed anybody, but why take a chance?
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Pinkfluffybunnys
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Post by Pinkfluffybunnys »

I will put this simply, if you had the money to play in the RB league you would have been there by now. You wouldn’t have even considered a moding the CA18DET it would have been out and on the floor before the car even got home.

Yes you can save and install an RB not a problem but then expect the car to stand when something goes wrong with your RB like a HG\water pump\oil pump\gaskets .. ect for example and you get the money together so a daily driver is out of the question, Now I don’t earn a lot of cash but I do have a few rands to throw around at the end of the month and I wouldn’t even look at a RB because of costs.

Now don’t get me wrong the RB\2JZ series motors can pump out a lot of power but you have to pay to play, the average SX drive sh&t’s there pants at the cost of Injectors \widebands \Forged pistons \Cams… Ect now you want to put in a motor where the costs are double sometimes triple? Also you want to take the chance of not rebuilding your R10000 motor in a hope that the guy that sold it to you wasn’t talking Sh%t?

Also there are some people that have gone the SR route I am happy for them , That’s fine the SR is a better motor overall because of support \ parts and knowledge then the CA, but then why spend R 15000 to install a bone stock SR? Why for bragging rights? Throw R15000 at you CA18? Then line up your stock SR and moded CA at a line and see who will win?

Plus you have more peace of mind because it’s fully rebuilt motor VS a so call 80-000KM motor, Look at VeeCee’s motor it looked like an anchor Imagine if he started the motor before striping it down. Then you have to factor in rebuilding costs anyway. I don’t get it , Yes Rezlo in making kick a$$ SR’s, Yes the SR can pump out a lot of ponies but it takes money again lots and lots of money, experience and parts are not cheap so most SR’s run around with an exhaust, Cone, management and IC and they will get thrashed by a CA18DET with R15000 thrown at it or worse case run head to head.

I’m not running down the guys that have done SR swaps, I have spoken personally to most of you and some just had bad luck with there CA18DET and some just wanted a change but then don’t stand on the forum and say a stockish SR20 swap is better the throwing that money at your CA18DET because I have done it and anyone that’s been in my car will know how quick she is also I have been around more bearing knocks on SR motors because of so called 80-000KM motors\expect tuners and just upping the boost a little

If you are planning on pushing for more the 220RWkw I would say do the out lay of costs and go SR but his will only be dead reliable after a out lay of cash for a few performance parts, If your shooting for more the 300 RWkw I would say go RB\2JZ , But most people are even lucky to push 200Rwkw and those numbers make for a fast car, So I’m just saying sit down and do you budget because out of ever one project that succeeds 10 fail because of bad planning and no funds, factor in life and living with your car also if you can get it sold after and at what loss then watch the costs climb.

I know I’m not making friends with this post and I also get envious of RB25SX\RBSX\Rezlo\Hennie but they have the money to play, They have worked hard in there life’s to get to the point and for anyone to bankrupt yourself or to put you life on hold for a few years while you save for your RB\SR power ride is just stupid
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Gary57
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Post by Gary57 »

PFB I get what you are saying and you speek the truth but a stock internalled RB25 can do 350RwKw with the correct bolt on's. What would it cost to build a CA or SR to make this power, my guess is more than the RB?!

I am finished modding my CA now because to get any decent gains now will cost alot and that just isnt worth it in my eyes, a RB25 is my next major mod. As for parts I can any engine part from the states within 5 days, so it can still be a daily.
DriftZ: "I swear if a CA18 beats my SR im getting a RB!"
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RB25SX
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Post by RB25SX »

PFB, thats all true.

Just for interest sake, regarding cost of a RB, I built a RB30DET ( RB30E sub from old skyline 30SGLI) + RB25DET cyl head.Bought a used sub for R2500. Had it rebored,fitted new pistons, rings, bearings cost me R3500.(all parts from local part suppliers) Imported RB25DET gasket set R2000. Could have gone with RB30 head gasket to save money.
Now I dont say anyone has to do that, but there are ways to get around the huge cost of a RB, and the 3L makes a huge differance in performance. There are a few tricks involved in building a RB30DET, so its not just straight forward bolt together.
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Pinkfluffybunnys
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Post by Pinkfluffybunnys »

PFB I get what you are saying and you speek the truth but a stock internalled RB25 can do 350RwKw with the correct bolt on's. What would it cost to build a CA or SR to make this power, my guess is more than the RB?!
I would never push a CA18 or SR there but how many people here have the money to play in the 350KW league? This is a dreamer statement because you are going to need deap pockets to get here and like I said the CA18DET would have been on the floor years ago
I am finished modding my CA now because to get any decent gains now will cost alot and that just isnt worth it in my eyes, a RB25 is my next major mod. As for parts I can any engine part from the states within 5 days, so it can still be a daily.
Yes EMS shipping is fast if you HAVE the money
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h

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ljS14
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Post by ljS14 »

:oops: Only seen this tread now,

My motor is reading 356wkw and 600nm with bolt ons and water/meth,Boosting 1.3 bar using Dicktator,
Low boost is 1 bar and 292wkw,
I have probly spent ex labour R60-70K(without skimping),This is the cost of the parts involved to get this power,Labour to do the convertion depends on who does it ,That for me has been my mistake,Had to pay a tuner to fix the others shit work(timeing,mapping,General kak)

Will update my project section soon with Dyno and pics :twisted:
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Gary57
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Post by Gary57 »

My motor is reading 356wkw and 600nm with bolt ons and water/meth,Boosting 1.3 bar using Dicktator,
Low boost is 1 bar and 292wkw,
What bolt on's do you have??
DriftZ: "I swear if a CA18 beats my SR im getting a RB!"
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Pinkfluffybunnys
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Post by Pinkfluffybunnys »

It just proves my point, It pays to play if you don’t have 90K to throw at your ride then don’t start, If I remember correctly it was Rezlo who said stay SR is cheaper then going RB for most of anyone’s requirements.

But 300RWKW is not just a set of cams and a fake ass GT28RS
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h

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ljS14
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Post by ljS14 »

Gary57 wrote:
My motor is reading 356wkw and 600nm with bolt ons and water/meth,Boosting 1.3 bar using Dicktator,
Low boost is 1 bar and 292wkw,
What bolt on's do you have??
GT30(Go GT35),Powercoated ex mani,740cc RC inj,Nismo fpr and rail,Supra coils,FMIC,Tial 44mm w/gate,Excell D/valve,Dicktator mang,W/m,ebc, I think thats all :)
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ReeceZ
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Post by ReeceZ »

ljS14 wrote:
Gary57 wrote:
My motor is reading 356wkw and 600nm with bolt ons and water/meth,Boosting 1.3 bar using Dicktator,
Low boost is 1 bar and 292wkw,
What bolt on's do you have??
GT30(Go GT35),Powercoated ex mani,740cc RC inj,Nismo fpr and rail,Supra coils,FMIC,Tial 44mm w/gate,Excell D/valve,Dicktator mang,W/m,ebc, I think thats all :)
Why do these bolt-on mods sound more like an entire project :?
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Post by Riekert »

ReeceZ wrote:
ljS14 wrote:
Gary57 wrote: What bolt on's do you have??
GT30(Go GT35),Powercoated ex mani,740cc RC inj,Nismo fpr and rail,Supra coils,FMIC,Tial 44mm w/gate,Excell D/valve,Dicktator mang,W/m,ebc, I think thats all :)
Why do these bolt-on mods sound more like an entire project :?
everything does BOLT ON though... :wink: :wink:
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