Cool running

Discussion of technical issues and ideas (engine, chassis)

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Xavier
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Post by Xavier »

try 1/3 hth
1\3 milk
1\3 brake bluid


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Guy
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Post by Guy »

Draco wrote:The boiling point of dot 4 is about 270 deg F....

If selicone bases fluid mixes with water will it still react the same when it gets on your paint.

Lets say a mix of 20/80
Dot 5 or silicone brake fluid is the only brake fluid that doesn't damage paint. Don't confuse Dot 5 and Dot 5.1.

Dot 5 is silicone, not a great brake fluid but used by hotrod guys who don't want to risk their paintjobs at all. Dot 5 is slightly compressible, will give a more spongy brake pedal feel. I remember reading somewhere that water and silicone brake fluid don't mix at all, kinda like oil and water.

Dot 5.1 is normal, paint eating brake fluid, with a higher boiling point than lower grades.
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Draco
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Post by Draco »

The question is can dot 5 brake fluid then help with running your motor colder....remember....moderation.....not cold enough to let your engine too cold....just enough for good operation in our climate....we all worry about heat.....
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Post by Guy »

In order for it to collect heat better from the motor and give it off better to the radiator it would have to have a higher specific heat capacity than water.

Water has a specific heat capacity of 4187 J/kg/C
Ethylene glycol, a component of brake fluid, only has a specific heat capacity of 2324 J/kg/C, but has a boiling point of 197 degC
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Hennie Marais
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Post by Hennie Marais »

rather use the correct stuff

redline waterwetter.
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Gary57
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Post by Gary57 »

rather use the correct stuff

redline waterwetter.
Agreed.
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Draco
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Post by Draco »

Hennie Marais wrote:rather use the correct stuff

redline waterwetter.
That is?
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RAW
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Post by RAW »

Hennie Marais wrote:rather use the correct stuff

redline waterwetter.
Ahmen, someone with common intelligence.

DO NOT put brake fluid in your radiator, someone probably told you this thinking you also think you must check the halogen fluid in your head lights or your exhaust bearings. It is a BAD idea and you will more than likely hurt yourself or your car, better yet would be finding hoses to support this, Sulphur and peroxide cured hoses will not work, silicon will also break down.

Your theory about why you shouldn’t drive a car hard when its cold is incorrect, its got nothing to do with gaskets, its got to do with oil viscosity and mechanical clearances between different materials, such as aluminium pistons in cast iron bores, bearings, etc.

The best way to cool your whole system down is straight water, this how ever has no corrosion inhibitors and will require draining after each use (as race cars do), one of the best ways to get the best of both worlds is to flush your whole system out and use 70% distilled water and 30% of GOOD antifreeze along with one bottle of redline or similar product that reduces the surface tension of the water.

This is an improvement though and not a solution to a car that’s radiator is either blocked, stuff water pump or thermostat or is making to much power for the radiator to support.

Lastly, you guys should not even joke about HTH!, people here that are not very bright might actualy try it,,, even 50/50 coolant will set it off and more than likely cause extensive vehicle and personal dammage!!!
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Draco
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Post by Draco »

Ok...read about the water wetter....

here is one of the links....

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/redlin ... AE-review/

clearly clutch fluid is also to risky.....so....that meens we will run hot for ever....maby get the mix tight like raw said and so on....in the end...it gets got and you screwed.....funny....we land on the moon and create all these wonderful things....but heat still screws us over....

well so much for exploring.....

Thanks for everybodies input.....the clutch fluid thing is aparently another load of bad opinion....
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Post by Sokar »

I laughed so hard when I saw this...

This person probably made the reasoning that because breakfluid has a higher boiling point its a better coolant, but it just isnt...

Feel free to try this and claim your "I told you so" via PM to me at any time, I'll be chilling with the other guys trying to not re-invent the wheel and that are enjoying our working radiators....

P.S, Draco, this wasnt directed at you, you were only asking, I know. It wasnt directed at anyone in particular, well, maybe to the people who cant see why this is hogwash...
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RAW
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Post by RAW »

Draco wrote:Ok...read about the water wetter....

here is one of the links....

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/redlin ... AE-review/

clearly clutch fluid is also to risky.....so....that meens we will run hot for ever....maby get the mix tight like raw said and so on....in the end...it gets got and you screwed.....funny....we land on the moon and create all these wonderful things....but heat still screws us over....

well so much for exploring.....

Thanks for everybodies input.....the clutch fluid thing is aparently another load of bad opinion....
Remember this:
Engines make power by converting BTU's of heat into working energy, the more heat you take out of the motor the more BTU's of possible "working" energy you loose. There is a reason near all automotive manufactures strive for right around 90deg inlet temp.... its not to make your car hot or overheat ;-)

Use it, dont use it.
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Draco
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Post by Draco »

I understad all the experts opinions....what we don't know we say is bull...thats the way it will always be....

Sometimes exploring could get some results we said never possible...but as rightly stated....I am not gonna test something like this....this is a test for someone with money....if they could get their heads out of the box.... :wink:

Just for interest sake......here is the link that started all the exploring...and thinking out of the box...

http://www.speedandsound.co.za/site/200 ... -reliable/
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Draco
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Post by Draco »

RAW wrote:
Draco wrote:Ok...read about the water wetter....

here is one of the links....

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/redlin ... AE-review/

clearly clutch fluid is also to risky.....so....that meens we will run hot for ever....maby get the mix tight like raw said and so on....in the end...it gets got and you screwed.....funny....we land on the moon and create all these wonderful things....but heat still screws us over....

well so much for exploring.....

Thanks for everybodies input.....the clutch fluid thing is aparently another load of bad opinion....
Remember this:
Engines make power by converting BTU's of heat into working energy, the more heat you take out of the motor the more BTU's of possible "working" energy you loose. There is a reason near all automotive manufactures strive for right around 90deg inlet temp.... its not to make your car hot or overheat ;-)

Use it, dont use it.
Mr. Rezlo, I know much less about engines and stuff than you, so I'll take your word on this, it sounds logical....if you one day know for a fact what will get me that inlet temp costantly without fail....let me know please.
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Sokar
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Post by Sokar »

Draco wrote:Sometimes exploring could get some results we said never possible...but as rightly stated....I am not gonna test something like this....this is a test for someone with money....if they could get their heads out of the box.... :wink:
Thats one of the smartest things, if not the smartest you've said, there is nothing wrong in questioning convention, but its knowing when you are barking up the wrong tree and there is no value to question what you are questioning...

To the people that might even consider this, may I ask, why breakfluid? why not Milk, or Chanel number 5, or Motor oil? Are you going to go through every possible fluid on earth that might result in what? maybe 1 - 5% better cooling? Where 99.999% of the time water and coolant works best? Eish, now thats just a waste of time and money, Rather debate which coolant is best, dont try ice skate uphill...... :evil:
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Post by veecee »

i thought brake fluid and clutch fluid are the same thing???
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