Blazt consult port interface

johansx · Post by **johansx** » Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:25 pm

Got back from holiday yesterday, picked up my Blazt consult port interface from the office. Thanks Ian, works great.

Had a problem with my SX dying at the robot while waiting for green, specially if the aircon was running and the idle slighly lower than the asual 825rpm. Noticed on the Blazt diag screens that the idle is steady around 825rpm from when it settled after startup.
The moment you touch the throttle, the timming jumps between 10 and 20 degrees, was steady at 15 degrees before. Also the idle jumps between 700rpm and 850rpm....

The only fault code indicates a "cam angle sensor error which occured 0 (zero) times¨ message.... huh?

Any clever ideas out there?

Draco · Post by **Draco** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 8:06 am

None watsoever.....

The Calibrator · Post by **The Calibrator** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 6:50 pm

what about the idle switch adjustment?

johansx · Post by **johansx** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:19 pm

The Calibrator wrote:what about the idle switch adjustment?

Bandaid

I want to fix the problem which I can describe as follows. The SX never used to backfire at all. Now it backfires, comming off the highway to the red robot after driving at speed. Stop at the robot, car idles smoothly. After about 20 secs the car developes a small misfire/yerking.... if in gear (automagic) and aircon on, it will die

Start up immediatelly again without problem?
Cranking up the idle speed will cause the auto to creep forward... no good.

The eratic idle is probably caused by the timing which either jumps between 15 and 20 degrees or between 15 and 10 degrees. Sure the cam angle sensor error must have some influance here? Time is a bit limited this week, maybe this weekend I will take it for a spin and do a data log. Also running hot today because the outside temp went over 30 degrees C.
I am sure once I can sort out these problems, the car will run better in general.

The Calibrator · Post by **The Calibrator** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:35 am

I didnt mean gyppo it I meant check the idle switch it may not be making solid contact.

johansx · Post by **johansx** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:15 pm

Sorry, couldn't resist the joke

The computer displays the idle swith on/off correctly. Will locate the relay and see if I can test or open it. Probably not.
Compared the Blazt readings with another S14 Sx tonight. The timing definatelly does not jump like on mine. The idle revs is slightly higher and way more stable. Water temp is also high eighties low nineties. Mine registered a 105C even after 10 minutes of idle. It was 34 degrees outside at the time.
I also switched off 1 cylinder on idle. Mine idled very rough for about 2 secs and died. The other SX idled rough but way better than mine and kept going.
During road test this morning avarage 200km/h the injector duty cycle peaked at 92%. Water temp 103C outside temp 24C. Timing between 10 and 46 degrees.
Will see if I can clean the cam sensors. What worries me most is the heat generated.

The Calibrator · Post by **The Calibrator** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 8:53 am

If the idle is bad the timing will fluctuate as they use the timing to help control the idle speed.
I doubt that cleaning the cam sensor will help as its a optical system and is pretty trouble free.

widowmaker · Post by **widowmaker** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 10:46 am

johansx wrote:...What worries me most is the heat generated.

when last did you (and everybody else) flush the cooling system? the cars are getting on in years and the stuff can get very mucky in there

johansx · Post by **johansx** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 2:22 pm

widowmaker wrote:
johansx wrote:...What worries me most is the heat generated.
when last did you (and everybody else) flush the cooling system? the cars are getting on in years and the stuff can get very mucky in there

Its sqeeky clean.... thanks

johansx · Post by **johansx** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 2:27 pm

The Calibrator wrote:If the idle is bad the timing will fluctuate as they use the timing to help control the idle speed.
I doubt that cleaning the cam sensor will help as its a optical system and is pretty trouble free.

Sure, but what causes the backfire, which is probably related to the misfire which is caused by something else... which is what I am after.

Think the only way to find the problem is to start at one point and check every single connector, sensor and wire. If only I had the time.

The Calibrator · Post by **The Calibrator** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 5:35 pm

hink the only way to find the problem is to start at one point and check every single connector, sensor and wire. If only I had the time.

Well diagnostics is one of my specialitys I am pretty sure I can track it down.

johansx · Post by **johansx** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:28 pm

The Calibrator wrote:
hink the only way to find the problem is to start at one point and check every single connector, sensor and wire. If only I had the time.
Well diagnostics is one of my specialitys I am pretty sure I can track it down.

Sure, but I want to try myself first...

Mause and Dastek tried....

Did a few more tests when I got home an hour ago. Blocked the heat with some cardbord boxes to major components and sensors. Use the hosepipe to cool down the individual components and sensors. Aircon on, in neutral...
1st the coil driver which is very close to the stainless manifold and gets to hot to touch. No effect.
2nd the boost contoller and coil driver resistor, nada.
3rd the AFM housing nada...
4th the boost sensor, still nada.
Next the throttle body..... yes, the FPS jumped between the 30 (closed) and 36. After the cool down, steady at 30. So the FPS needs adjustments.
Cooled down the whole inlet manifold.... nada.

In the mean time the water temp started comming down. The monent at reached 86 degrees C, the idle smoothed out, the timing however is still erratic. So I pulled the handbrake, put it in reverse (remember its an automagic). Some as when it is cold, it can now idle with aircon on and in gear. I also repeated the cylinder switch off via the laptop, this timed it kept on running, but not quite as smooth as the other SX I tested last night, but a huge improvement.
So water temp does effect the general smooth running of the engine. Next I want to see if I can cool down the coil packs, without drowning them off course.

I while ago I also disconnected the Unichip, no effect at all. So, whats left?
Coil Packs, cam sensors....

WooHaa · Post by **WooHaa** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 1:54 pm

Yes the water temp sensor not only tells the guage how hot the car is,but also the ecu.
The ecu runs of two temps. 20degrees & 80degrees. Remember, when the car is below 20 degrees, the mixture is enriched, after that the mixture leans out.....well not leans out completely, just not richer...if you know what I mean.
If your water temp sensor, is sending incorrect readings, then this will affect idle.
Also you might not get an error code from the ecu as the temp sensor might still be sending readings within parameters.

Also clean out your AFM, the two wire jobbies....this will also affect idle.

Rezlo · Post by **Rezlo** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 3:40 pm

The ECU does not run two temps, not sure where you heard this, the ECU will obviously enrichen the fuel when the engine is cold, this slowely tapers off till the car is at opperating temprature, its not just one or other, it works on a non linear scale.

Your car has two temp sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ecu, both sensors are found on the intake manifold under the throttle body on the S14, 105degrees is wrong, it can not be that high on inlet temp, your car would be boiling over because it means your outlet temp would be 130 degrees +

The temp sensor with the 2 prongs is the ecu sensor, take it out and read the FSM on how to test it in a glass of hot water with thermometer and a multimeter, it will give you a specific Ohm resistance at a certain temp, or if you have some money just replace the sensor with ONLY a genuine Nissan unit ONLY for the S14

Once youve done this screw the cap off your cam angle sensor then take the cover off, (leave the actual body of the unit still in your cyl head) then take a can of compressed air like u use to clean computers and give the little disk with the 360holes a good blow off, also blow some air around the little pickups, then take some switch cleaner and give it just a little spray here and there around the holes (dont spray the sensor) and then blow it off with air again till its totaly dry then screw it all back together.

Once thats done your car should run like a champ, if it doesnt use the switch cleaner to clean the MAFS, and take your coil packs out and change your plugs with BCPR7ES-11 or the BCPR7EIX irridiums I sell and gap them nice and tight, right around .8mm... incorect plug gap and plugs play hell in SR20DET's.

In future if you want me to read a tech post please email me the link, i dont always have time to just go trole forums.

Hope it helps your problem

and glad u like the blazt, its a WICKED little bit of kit, you should see the new peice of software they just release, the conZult, its absolutly amazing, ill have it for sale soon

johansx · Post by **johansx** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 9:48 pm

Thanks Ian, will cc you next time

With that high temp the car does not boil over, that is until about a minute after switch off, then it stars bubbling through to water overflow bottle. Will check the sensors as you described.

Done excatcly that with my cam sensor yesterday, made no difference. Maf is cleaned regularly, normally use carb cleaner.

Running NGK BCPR7ES-11 or BCPR6ES plugs. Still want to order irridiums but I 1st want to fix the problem. My next try will be the coil packs....

Just my luck, buy the blazt just before the release the conZult, price ?