This is a new one. Will keep it it mind. ThanksEarth Wires?
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hey chem,
i havent driven my car in the last few days because i had this exact problem.
these are the things i checked to sort it out:
1. TPS - i reset the position of the TPS, to make sure that the idle switch is working properly. here's how. unplug the black connector. get your multimeter to read resistance (ohms). use the top two pins to get a measurement. your multiM will either read 1 ohm or 0ohm (i had mine on the 20k setting i think). get that TPS to a point where the reading changes when you move the throttle slightly! tighten it.
2. check earths, specially the engine earth. check as many points as possible. fix any dodgy connections.
3. reset the idling via the throttle butterfly thingy. make sure you do this part when the car is warm - temp gauge near the middle.
4. shoot the timing of the car. get the timing right, to where you want it to be.
5. if the idling has changed at all, reset it again to where it should be.
i did this this evening in less than an hour. before i couldnt drive my car because it would cut out on deceleration everytime. now it settles down to 950rpm idle speed perfectly everytime. the idle drop is gone.
i will see tomorrow morning if the idle searching is still there when it is cold!
hope it helps.
VC
i havent driven my car in the last few days because i had this exact problem.
these are the things i checked to sort it out:
1. TPS - i reset the position of the TPS, to make sure that the idle switch is working properly. here's how. unplug the black connector. get your multimeter to read resistance (ohms). use the top two pins to get a measurement. your multiM will either read 1 ohm or 0ohm (i had mine on the 20k setting i think). get that TPS to a point where the reading changes when you move the throttle slightly! tighten it.
2. check earths, specially the engine earth. check as many points as possible. fix any dodgy connections.
3. reset the idling via the throttle butterfly thingy. make sure you do this part when the car is warm - temp gauge near the middle.
4. shoot the timing of the car. get the timing right, to where you want it to be.
5. if the idling has changed at all, reset it again to where it should be.
i did this this evening in less than an hour. before i couldnt drive my car because it would cut out on deceleration everytime. now it settles down to 950rpm idle speed perfectly everytime. the idle drop is gone.
i will see tomorrow morning if the idle searching is still there when it is cold!
hope it helps.
VC
ReeceZ wrote:I'm sorry... I couldn't help it. Please no one wish any hateful shit on me, I own an SX already
- ChemCool
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It is in the dustbin! And the aac valve is also there in the dustbin.I went the VC route. Which works fine. Just need to sort this idle drop thing out. Also I want to make it clear, that the idle drop is not a mere 200 RPMs drop, no it is a drop of 500 rpms' down to 200 rpms, and then hopefully from there back to default.
Yesterday, I closed the bov completely. For a moment it looked like the bov is not closing in time. I know, my bov is not of the greatest quality on earth. Then I reset the TPS again, but it looks like the bug still persists.
Yesterday, I closed the bov completely. For a moment it looked like the bov is not closing in time. I know, my bov is not of the greatest quality on earth. Then I reset the TPS again, but it looks like the bug still persists.