Overheating

Discussion of technical issues and ideas (engine, chassis)

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Trance101
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Post by Trance101 »

What do u guys think about those R100 heat shields that u can buy for ur filter? Do u think they even make any difference?
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Phinx
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Post by Phinx »

nope, But it can stop some radiant heat
A.K.A - Wonderboy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1993 Nissan 200 SX
148 Kw - 250 NM @ 0.55 bar. 1.8T ATW
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1989 Toyota Corrola
63kw - 117nm 1.3- N/A
18.2 @118,4 Km - Rainbow Raceway
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
veecee
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Post by veecee »

Phinx wrote:nope, But it can stop some radiant heat
so it can make a difference then??? :?
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Phinx
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Post by Phinx »

Nope not when the under bonnet temp is 35 C +.

It helps, the same way “Disprin” helps for a bullet wound
A.K.A - Wonderboy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1993 Nissan 200 SX
148 Kw - 250 NM @ 0.55 bar. 1.8T ATW
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1989 Toyota Corrola
63kw - 117nm 1.3- N/A
18.2 @118,4 Km - Rainbow Raceway
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Slide 'em Wide
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Post by Slide 'em Wide »

Thats all fine and well, the conditions may have changed and that would effect na cars to a larger extent than a turbo car. your power increase or decrease as a result of atmospheric pressure and air temp, humidity etc. is far less on a turbo. The case in point is you take a na car from jhb ( I helped sasol and toyota in the preparation of a 1600 conquest) the average increase in power on the coast is between 15 & 17%. At the same time i had a chat to the subaru mechanics and the figures the got was between 2 & 4%.

What im getting to is that if the ambient conditions did change i feel that the power increase was as a result of the turbo sucking more air and not the air itself. About the oil viscosity, If the car was at operation temp, the oil will be within its prime viscosity level(assuming you use the same oil and dont run your car on the dyno when its cold)

Gary wrote:
Draco there are so many things that can change the power on a dyno, engine temp, humidity, oil viscosity, etc. So by saying you got 5Kw on the wheels more is very vague because the conditions were different between the 2 runs.
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veecee
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Post by veecee »

so then... you have quite clearly contradicted yourself?

you say a turbo car can gain 2 to 4% in power by being in an area that is highly humid, and has "more air".

thats 2-4 kilowatts in a car that generally makes 100 kilowatts on the rear wheels. purely because of changes such as those mentioned by you and gary.

EISH!!! :shock: :shock: :shock:
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Slide 'em Wide
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Post by Slide 'em Wide »

So this is true if he went from jhb to durban etc to get a dyno done. So that is area depending. I trust that he went to the same dyno in the same town. (all dyno's give different readings)

Its a bit of a hectic drive just for a test on whether he had any improvement with the mod. So visa versa if before the mod he ran on a dyno in durban and then went up to jhb he had a 5kw gain then it is reversed so that he overcame the minus 2-4% and made an extra 5kw. So 10kw gain :shock:

This being true ill sell my moms stuff and buy a performance filter now!!
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veecee
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Post by veecee »

LOL - now i'm getting confused!!!

i was thinking about the filter thing over the weekend though, and the standard filters are good, even if its only for this reason:

- they are cheap and you can replace them often. so you will never run the chance of getting crap into your engine, because it doesnt cost much to replace!!!

i've had the cone filter on my for a long time now, and my engine bay is waaay dusty and dirty, but i haven't replaced the filter at all. yes you can wash them with soapy water, but what does it cost to re-oil them properly???
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Draco
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Post by Draco »

Just to clarify, I used the same dyna and both was done on very hot days with a 5kw gain on the wheels with the new filter.

VC, you gan buy kits to wash the filters and oil them, You buy it for around R160, my kit has lasted me for about a year and a half already.
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Gary57
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Post by Gary57 »

I use a K&N cone filter and wash and oil it every 5000km and it has lasted a year and half so far and is still in perfect condition.
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rat
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Post by rat »

Where do you get the oil from for your filter?
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Draco
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Post by Draco »

You buy the kits from any accesory shop....it's a special oil and soap, you normally get K&N kits and napier kits for about R160
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Gary57
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Post by Gary57 »

I got mine from Autostyle, R150.
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Slide 'em Wide
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Post by Slide 'em Wide »

So forgive my ignorance, (which is vast) Ill be in the market for a filter soon. Which filters are good?I hear names like bmc, K&n, hks, simota etc....etc. All the advertising from said companies give the same promises. I dont really trust what they say. how ever i do value your guys opinion.

Which ones offer the best reliability and most simplistic and easy to maintain?
I am a guy so i like the simple things in life that actually work.

Veecee, when i get my filter ill make one of those cold air boxy things and post picts and give you some ideas if you wish :wink:
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veecee
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Post by veecee »

i reckon the easiest way to do it is to get the flat panel filter for the standard airbox.

either BMC or K&N will do. they are washable with the cleaning kits, and should last you a very long time. apparently they also give you a performance increase!

i've heard the sentra/sabre 200sti one fits! but i'm not 100% sure. i think Dr G has confirmed that in the past! he's a sentra/sabre boff, and he owns an very nice s13! lucky bastid!
ReeceZ wrote:I'm sorry... I couldn't help it. Please no one wish any hateful shit on me, I own an SX already
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