true about the RB range, but my wallet doest stretch that far. Getting it in is one thing, what happens when something breaks? $$$$
I personally dig the CA18 range as well. We had 3 x CA18 N/a sentras in the family and they truely are little rockets when they are running well.
But having had experience with SR motors the market is just more open to them. It's sometimes nice to have a bit of choice when you're looking for parts.
So what would be a normal, average, good, excellent and awesome wkw figure for a SR20det then?
johansx wrote:How difficult is it to get rid of the front diff in the RB26dett sump?
The only way I've heard of is using a RB25 or an after market sump.
Either that or you can weld up the holes by yourself, YEEEEHAAAA!!!!
A nice high capacity drifting sump....
I am just too lazy to read the WSM pdf.
Sure the diff would have some mounting spots inside/under the block. Will ask Andre next time I go to Rustenburg.
I think that is pushing it unless you are looking at spending some serious dosh. I think Riaan is pushing 240RwKw and that cost him something like R40k, but I might be mistaken .
Does noone want to try a supercharger + turbo combo? Like VW did with the little 1.4 golf recently? Loads of power and no lag? Doesn't that sound nice?
Red 200SX S13, 1992, stock. <a href="/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=332">Engine rebuilt (click)</a>.
Toby wrote:Does noone want to try a supercharger + turbo combo? Like VW did with the little 1.4 golf recently? Loads of power and no lag? Doesn't that sound nice?
Lotsa money and complex plumbing and complex belt arrangements. Use the right BB turbo and you will have boost from as low as 1500rpm.
Like Qwerties car
1500rpm= 0.2bar
3000rpm= 0.5bar
4000rpm 1.5bar if you want it.
CA20DET. Anyone know which cars in SA came with the CA20 motors? I presume it must have been the old skylines?
Anyways, CA20 crank apparently bolts up to the CA18 block, or CA18 head bolts up to the CA20 block. Can't recall the details anymore.
Granted some custom forged (honda) pistons and mitshubishi rods are needed to make this work but can be another option to consider. Seeing that the CA18DET is in fact just a 4 cylinder version of the mightly RB series motors...
Also, anyone on this forum have a low port (8 runner) CA18DET in their cars?
Doctor G wrote:
CA18 head bolts up to the CA20 block. Can't recall the details anymore.
I read an article where someone tried this, there biggest problem was there was no mounting holes in the block for the timing belt pulley's and also they couldn't find timing belt that fitted once they had it on, since the CA20 was only ever 8V.
To get an SR to run 350kw you gonna have to spend real money, which buy the sounds of things isnt an option... The sr is awesome, but if you plan on getting that kind of power and for a relatively good price, go with the RB.. I have an RB and at 0.6 bar its 245kw on the fly with 330nm... its a real fun motor with loads of potential, and thats in standard form... the sr makes half that power basically... I have an SR and am looking for that kind of power, but to run realiable the money is getting out of hand.... I recon an RB at a bar with a GT3037 or even a GT3540 will be mad... Thats the way im going.. so far ive spent 16k on motor and box with the RB, and its more fun than most of the cars ive driven... i recon that motor in a light body will be crazy fun.... and if you run it .4 bar, 207 on the fly....more than a CA or SR will have at probably .7...
How much power can it handle before internals etc are
More power then the drive shaft and Diff can take.
RB are rock solid, But damn expensive to run and maintain.
Also with regards to the CA20DET, Don't expect to much gain from the extra CC...
Look if you want serious power and reliability every day, The only real swap is RB25 / RB26. They can push the required number with a smile when just set-up correctly
