Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

Ecu was giving no error when I pulled the motor and box.

Work done on the motor:
Injector seals
Lifters
Turbo
Thermostat
Tappet cover gaskets.
Rear main seal.

Now I have put the motor back and ecu if giving me these errors.
12 afm
13 water temp Sensor
34 knock sensor.

Wtf. All the same sensors that were working. Tried different afm and still give it's error.

Any ideas? Car is battling to idle as well and to set the timing to 15deg got to full advance the CAS.

did you reset the ecu by disconecting batery and pushing the brake pedal to drain all power from ecu

Check the wiring at the ECU as well as the sensors. I have had similar issues before - wiring was not making proper connection at the knock sensor and the water temp sensor's internal wiring can be sensitive and break if you knock the connector part.

Reset the battery many times.

Will check the wiring tonight by the ecu. Checked by the sensors.

Ooh it irks me when people say "reset the Ecu ".

There seems to be a common denominator here, are all the harness junction plugs securely connected?

EISH !

HOW DO YOU KNOW ABOUT THE ERRORS ?

WF serious or joking?

no man seriaaas !

Copied from the net but also in the FSM

Still dont understand why people get a dicktator to replace a 20 year old ecu thats more advanced.

The ECU has a window on one side to view a red LED and a green LED - when checking fault codes, the red led represents tens and the green fled represents units. So for example, the code to say that everything is functioning normally would be 5 red flashes and 5 green flashes - the code is 55.

The ECU has 5 modes of operation, for diagnostics codes, it has to be set to mode 3.

1. Make sure the screw next to the viewing window is turned clockwise.
2. Turn the ignition on
3. Both LEDs with flash once, then a pause, then a second time, then a pause, etc. etc. up to 5 times then will repeat the process. After is has flashed 3 times then turn the screw completely anti-clockwise. - this will select mode 3.
4. The LEDs will now flash codes. 55 means that everything is normal. The rest are written below.
5. When finished, turn the screw back to clockwise and the ECU will reset itself automatically.

Don't worry about the '5th cylinder misfire' and '6th cylinder misfire' or anything, the codes are the same for all Nissans.
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit

u\Undid the harness from the ecu and put it back and errors went away, after a drive error 34 knock sensor was back but looks like i have to redo wiring.

Car still doesnt idle right and if you driving and you push the clutch in it stalls or nearly stalls. Could this be timing on the cam belt?

Is the engine temp hotter than normal? Is the CAS more or less in the same position as before u pulled the motor? Im having the same beans!

CAS used to be in the middle now it full advance to get 15 deg.

I set the cam belt to the fsm. Was a mission to get the intake cam right. Hence me thinking I might have done something wrong.

Sounds like the intake cam is 1 tooth out, and by the position of the CAS it confirms it.

This is how I set mine up. * Set bottom end to tdc

Used a 3/8 drive rachet extention in no.1 spark plug hole. Turn engine till extention comes up and u hear the compression escaping from the side of it. Note that with every cycle the piston will come to the top twice.1 will b compression up and the other, down. Needs to be on compression up. Once u got that sorted you ready to start with the belt. **This is the step that is normally forgotten about***

*Fit belt on crank gear (use a 10 spanner flat side to wedge between belt and oil pump lip to keep belt in place).

*Line Exhaust cam with mark on Timing cover plate and fit belt

*Line intake cam 1 tooth above mark on timing cover plate and fit belt

*Feed belt over tensioner. When you adjust the tensioner, it will bring the intake cam spot on the mark where it should be

*Tighten tensioner and rotate engine twice

*Check that all the marks correspond

Hope this helps on the timing

Thanks

That's kinda of what I did but also think the intake cam is off.

Do u have the std cam in?