There’s just got to be an easier way to pull error codes from the ECU other that removing the kick panel
and the ECU itself. The FSM document showed a possibility with a checker-box that can be connected to
a check-connector that’s located at the driver side kick-panel where the fuses are.
Somehow, if we can access this connector and connect the correct pins to some LEDs, one is able to pull
codes conveniently without removing the ECU from its home.
What will you need?
- Small plastic box
- A flick switch
- 1 x green LED
- 1 x red LED
- 2 x 4.7kOhms resistor
- 2 male + 2 female 9 pin Serial Port connector (optional, really)
- a soldering iron, wire cutter, solder etc.
Where’s the check connector??
Here’s the check connector, with the driver’s side kickpanel
removed, where the fuses are.
You may need to put your hand in there to ‘feel’ for it as it
may be hiding in the mess of wires in there.
What does the pins designate?
Pin 1 - Ignition coil feed from relay (NOT ignition coil 1, 12v when on)
Pin 2 - mode switch
Pin 3 - ECCS relay (12v = ECCS self test OK, switches power to parts of EECS, CAS, AFM and ign relay)
Pin 4 - Green wire - Green led + 4.7K resistor to +12v (pin 3 is good)
Pin 5 - Red wire - Red led + as above
Pin 6 - mode switch
Pin 7 - Diff oil cooler relay 1 (12v when relay is off, 0v when on, switch to ground will operate relay)
Pin 8 - Diff oil cooler relay 2 (12v when pump on, relay 2 is switched by speed)
Pin 9 - Black wire – Ground
I got this from the FSM itself. There’re some other signals
that you can get as you can see from the description above but for the purpose of this DIY, we’ll just
focus on how to conveniently pull error codes from the ECU.
How it all works
Pins 4 and 5 are the error code indicators. The number of blinks the RED LED indicates the number
of 10’s and the GREEN LED, number of 1’s (eg. If RED blinks 2 times and GREEN blinks 5 times, the
error code is 25, refer to the FSM for details on the error code).
Pins 2 and 6 sets the ECU into various modes. For self-diagnosis, you need to set the ECU to mode
III. When 2 and 6 are shorted/connected, the ECU will cycle through the various modes, blinking 1 time
for mode I, 2 times for mode II etc, there will be a pause after each set of blinks. Right after it has blink 3
times, disconnect 2 and 6 and the ECU will be in mode III.
You will start to see the LEDs blinking. For more details, refer to the FSM on how to interpret/observe
the blinks. Just too tiresome to write it all down here!
Connections
Here’s where the soldering iron comes in handy and its very simple. Only tricky thing is the LED. You
must connect this correctly for it to light up. The LED consists of an anode and cathode. Please make
sure to observe this fact. The cathode has a shorter lead and larger plate.
The Cathode needs to be connected to the negative side and the anode to the positive (voltage supply).
You will need to connect the cathode to a 4.7kOhms resistor to limit the current so as not too draw too
much current from the ECU.
- The switch is connected to pins 2 and 6
- RED LED to pins 5 and 3 (via 4.7kOhms resistor)
- GREEN LED to pins 4 and 3 (via 4.7kOhms resistor)
All you need to do is put it in some sort of plastic box. Derek has seen the one i made, havent got pics of it finished unfortunately.
The only real problem is plugging into the check connecter. i just pressed the bare wires in and taped the whole lot up. Hope this is of use to some of you
Now, you can do your ECU diagnosis at anytime, easily. Anytime you have a problem while cruising
around, you can just stop by the road and pull codes. Especially helpful if you have some intermittent
problems that simple refuse to show up when you are at the workshop!
