Tobie's blue car
Moderators: P3g4sus, Daniel, rat, Draco, Riekert
Tobie's blue car
As Rudeboy shared his build on this SX forum I would also.
Hope you guys enjoy, and find it helpful, as I truly believe the GT-R gates are opening in SA.
I have acquired a BNR32 it was in a mediocre state, the previous owners left the car for 1 year in the panel beaters circle, I got the car in a less than satisfyingly state.
The car was fully striped to become a Drag car, STD computer, harness, headlights, aircon, motor, gearbox, dash, carpets, seats, window rubbers, door cards. Basically everything.
After a respray the panel beaters “ATTEMPTED” to put most of the stuff back as the decision was made to get the car back to street trim, they put the STD harness, dash, carpets, seats, rear lights, bashed front corner lights, bashed front headlights etc
That is in short the history of the car before I purchased it.
Most of the parts I used for the build were second hand, used and new, so some of the specs I am quoting are from the previous owner.
I bought the car in this state, after I took delivery of it, me and a friend build a forged engine with single turbo conversion, and decided to put it in.
Trust filters
Gredy rear strut brace.
Apexi Power FC L-Detro, with Z32 AFM’s for management.
HKS coilovers
ARC Intercooler
The first steps to completing the engine bay, and getting ready to fit the ARC Intercooler.
I put a mesh on the bumper as this is going to be a street car in Africa, do not want any stones damage my ARC cooler, I also think it helps with the aesthetics of the car.
Had to make a mix and match job of the headlights, as I had 2 sets, 1 GTR and 1 GTS set, the one had broken plastics, and the other had broken glass lenses
Got hold of a set of new clear corner lights
Trust/Greddy/GREX short shifter kit installed in the car.
Had to make m own wing brackets, finished and it is on the car.
Installed Ganador mirrors. took a while fabricating new mounts for it, get this, the panel beaters took them apart, and threw the internal mounting brackets away
Rays engineering/ Nismo GT4 wheels, 17 x 9.5 JJ +12
Like I said earlier, the panel beaters threw away lots of clips and rubbers and stuff, including the rear division panel, this made me make up my mind to put the Batcap battery in the boot, this is poly-carbon, strong stuff and a bit scratch resistant, also it does not conduct electricity, so perfect to make a battery holder from.
Installed some Kicker power cable, ran 4 Gauge positive wire from the battery in the boot to the fuse holder and 4 Gauge negative wire to the engine and chassis.
The oil catch tank was upgraded with larger fittings to match the size fittings on the RB26.
The look of the engine bay at the moment, also what looks to me like a Spats front strut brace
Engine spec list
Failed attempt to extend the capacity of the sump, the guy that made it took instructions from another guy and failed to listen to what I was saying, and showing him aka photos of R.I.P.S sumps etc.
R34 crank, nitrated and balanced
Pauter Rods
Wiseco 87mm pistons
ARP full Stud and bolt kit.
ACL bearings all round
Nismo water pump
Nismo thermostat
Greddy oil pump
Greddy 1.2mm Meta head gasket
Greddy intake manifold and fuel rail.
Greddy adjustable cam gears and timing belt
Greddy Aux belt pulleys
Flowed and polished head.
JUN 1mm oil restictors
JUN titanium, retainers, springs and valves 1mm oversize.
JUN small lobe cams 276 intake, 272 exhaust 10.5 lift, and long titanium followers.
ATI Damper
Stainless steel single turbo manifold and V-band clamp Mines wastegate
Garrett T4 AR.70 stage 2 exhausts, twin scroll, T04E AR.50 intake with Volvo wheel, bush type.
SARD feul regulator
Apexi Intank feul pump
Os Giken twin plate clutch pack and flywheel
RC 1000cc injectors
Mishimoto Alu Radiator
Future upgrades will be A ball bearing turbo Garrett GT35 or GT40 or T04Z
Hope you guys enjoy, and find it helpful, as I truly believe the GT-R gates are opening in SA.
I have acquired a BNR32 it was in a mediocre state, the previous owners left the car for 1 year in the panel beaters circle, I got the car in a less than satisfyingly state.
The car was fully striped to become a Drag car, STD computer, harness, headlights, aircon, motor, gearbox, dash, carpets, seats, window rubbers, door cards. Basically everything.
After a respray the panel beaters “ATTEMPTED” to put most of the stuff back as the decision was made to get the car back to street trim, they put the STD harness, dash, carpets, seats, rear lights, bashed front corner lights, bashed front headlights etc
That is in short the history of the car before I purchased it.
Most of the parts I used for the build were second hand, used and new, so some of the specs I am quoting are from the previous owner.
I bought the car in this state, after I took delivery of it, me and a friend build a forged engine with single turbo conversion, and decided to put it in.
Trust filters
Gredy rear strut brace.
Apexi Power FC L-Detro, with Z32 AFM’s for management.
HKS coilovers
ARC Intercooler
The first steps to completing the engine bay, and getting ready to fit the ARC Intercooler.
I put a mesh on the bumper as this is going to be a street car in Africa, do not want any stones damage my ARC cooler, I also think it helps with the aesthetics of the car.
Had to make a mix and match job of the headlights, as I had 2 sets, 1 GTR and 1 GTS set, the one had broken plastics, and the other had broken glass lenses
Got hold of a set of new clear corner lights
Trust/Greddy/GREX short shifter kit installed in the car.
Had to make m own wing brackets, finished and it is on the car.
Installed Ganador mirrors. took a while fabricating new mounts for it, get this, the panel beaters took them apart, and threw the internal mounting brackets away
Rays engineering/ Nismo GT4 wheels, 17 x 9.5 JJ +12
Like I said earlier, the panel beaters threw away lots of clips and rubbers and stuff, including the rear division panel, this made me make up my mind to put the Batcap battery in the boot, this is poly-carbon, strong stuff and a bit scratch resistant, also it does not conduct electricity, so perfect to make a battery holder from.
Installed some Kicker power cable, ran 4 Gauge positive wire from the battery in the boot to the fuse holder and 4 Gauge negative wire to the engine and chassis.
The oil catch tank was upgraded with larger fittings to match the size fittings on the RB26.
The look of the engine bay at the moment, also what looks to me like a Spats front strut brace
Engine spec list
Failed attempt to extend the capacity of the sump, the guy that made it took instructions from another guy and failed to listen to what I was saying, and showing him aka photos of R.I.P.S sumps etc.
R34 crank, nitrated and balanced
Pauter Rods
Wiseco 87mm pistons
ARP full Stud and bolt kit.
ACL bearings all round
Nismo water pump
Nismo thermostat
Greddy oil pump
Greddy 1.2mm Meta head gasket
Greddy intake manifold and fuel rail.
Greddy adjustable cam gears and timing belt
Greddy Aux belt pulleys
Flowed and polished head.
JUN 1mm oil restictors
JUN titanium, retainers, springs and valves 1mm oversize.
JUN small lobe cams 276 intake, 272 exhaust 10.5 lift, and long titanium followers.
ATI Damper
Stainless steel single turbo manifold and V-band clamp Mines wastegate
Garrett T4 AR.70 stage 2 exhausts, twin scroll, T04E AR.50 intake with Volvo wheel, bush type.
SARD feul regulator
Apexi Intank feul pump
Os Giken twin plate clutch pack and flywheel
RC 1000cc injectors
Mishimoto Alu Radiator
Future upgrades will be A ball bearing turbo Garrett GT35 or GT40 or T04Z
The car seems to get the dreaded jiggy from the rear wheel steering every now and then. So I sourced this:
Changed from STD coils to Splitfire ones
These ball joints are a bit worn, +- 2mm inwards and outwards play on both sides, when I jack the car up, I can wiggle the wheel left and right. I sourced some new ones.
I took the horrible exhaust off and put in something more civilized.
I desperately need the down pipe to look the same.
The HICAS lock out bar is fitted, using the newish tie rod arms (0 play) until I can get the Driftworks stuff.
Installed some Super Pro polyurethane bushes on the std front upper camber arms after I sanded it down and gave it a new coat of paint. (Nismo silver)
Did the caster arms.
Finished the rear suspension bushes.
His and Hers
Changed from STD coils to Splitfire ones
These ball joints are a bit worn, +- 2mm inwards and outwards play on both sides, when I jack the car up, I can wiggle the wheel left and right. I sourced some new ones.
I took the horrible exhaust off and put in something more civilized.
I desperately need the down pipe to look the same.
The HICAS lock out bar is fitted, using the newish tie rod arms (0 play) until I can get the Driftworks stuff.
Installed some Super Pro polyurethane bushes on the std front upper camber arms after I sanded it down and gave it a new coat of paint. (Nismo silver)
Did the caster arms.
Finished the rear suspension bushes.
His and Hers
Got this parcel from http://www.rezlo.com
They look top quality.
Finally removed the whole HICAS system, saved some 20kg doing that.\
Removed and relocated the front power steering return pipe, as it was a bit close to the manifold in stock position.
Also blocked off the HICAS return pipe on the power steering reservoir.
Removed the rear pump vein and blocked the HICAS feed off.
Note that the engine had developed "white spot" measles after the last start up, something to do with me spilling the smallest amount of antifreeze and the fan drawing it all over the place. Lol
They look top quality.
Finally removed the whole HICAS system, saved some 20kg doing that.\
Removed and relocated the front power steering return pipe, as it was a bit close to the manifold in stock position.
Also blocked off the HICAS return pipe on the power steering reservoir.
Removed the rear pump vein and blocked the HICAS feed off.
Note that the engine had developed "white spot" measles after the last start up, something to do with me spilling the smallest amount of antifreeze and the fan drawing it all over the place. Lol
I got my new carpets the weekend, ETL made me new sets using my old set as template, these new ones are nice as they do not move around once you install them in place in your car.
Got the carpets from Patrick 0835714922 at Hill fox power center weekend flee market.
These are top quality, can not recommend them enough. Paid R650 for a set incl the large boot mat.
Old
New
Got the carpets from Patrick 0835714922 at Hill fox power center weekend flee market.
These are top quality, can not recommend them enough. Paid R650 for a set incl the large boot mat.
Old
New
Thanks for the positive commends guys.
Hope we can form a GT-R sub division real soon, and you are invited with open armsljS14 wrote:Thanks for sharing this GTR with us Tobie as i have said before 'This is a seriouslly hot GTR'
I think we should all be prevaliged to have 2 GTR's of this caliber on the forum
- P3g4sus
- Club Drifter
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- Location: Midrand
Tobie, Your car was at the GMS?!Tobie wrote:Thanks for the positive commends guys.
Hope we can form a GT-R sub division real soon, and you are invited with open armsljS14 wrote:Thanks for sharing this GTR with us Tobie as i have said before 'This is a seriouslly hot GTR'
I think we should all be prevaliged to have 2 GTR's of this caliber on the forum
Power is nothing without control,
Control is not fun without power.
Traction is over rated.
Control is not fun without power.
Traction is over rated.