Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

ca18 exhaust smoke as soon as the engine heats up, have installed new turbo kit, same result.... any advice. I suspect the shaft on the turbo is worn... how can one determine if the smoke is from the engine or the turbo?

Check play in the shaft and check the rear or the turbo where the elbow is. Look for oil there.

What new turbo kit did you install? New turbo with a messed shaft?

What color is the smoke and is it on idle?

The car started to smoke a little and then more and more in a short while. I purchased a t2/t25 repair kit from turbo exchange. There is smoke at idle and when it is reved for the second time it gives a lot of smoke, Looks like a blueish smoke. I quess I would have to remove the manifold and let the motor run warm or is there a different way. your help is greatly appreciated.

Thats deffinately the turbo oil seals. Was the turbo shaft balanced after you repaired it?

You can't run the engine without the manifold as it ill be bypassing the AFM and that is needed on the CA in order to run.
You can remove the down pipe and turbo elbow in situ (with some difficulty) but I'd say it's a waste of time. I do recon that the turbo oil seals so you might as well just take the turbo off.

No I did not have it ballanced before I put it back together but I did mark everything before disassembly. Also I did not remove the turbines from the shaft so the guy from turbo exchange said it is not necessary... Should I have replaced the shaft as well? I see autostyle sells a T25 Garrett for R3100- is not worth to replace the whole turbo?

If you didn't have to remove the housings then what did you replace?
Was there excessive movement in the shaft?

I'd replace the turbo all together. Take this time to upgrade to a t28 (prefferably a t28rs) and get supporting mods and hey presto...more power.
But if you can't afford a t28 then yes a new t25. At least you will know that it will last long

arno wrote:No I did not have it ballanced before I put it back together but I did mark everything before disassembly. Also I did not remove the turbines from the shaft so the guy from turbo exchange said it is not necessary... Should I have replaced the shaft as well? I see autostyle sells a T25 Garrett for R3100- is not worth to replace the whole turbo?

thats not the same size t25 as ours and you get a better one here for like 2k max for a t25g ask riekert he know a guy that knows a guy that his sister knows a aunty that has a son that knows a friends friend that has one hahaha

you must of removed the blades to put the repair kit in

you can run it with out the turbo manifold if you want wont to anything will just be a pup 1.8 with low compression just stick the maf onto the intake

poizen wrote:you can run it with out the turbo manifold if you want wont to anything will just be a pup 1.8 with low compression just stick the maf onto the intake

Bit of a naf but true, and you will have to block off the oil and water for the turbo

Sorry I'm asleep, I did remove the compressor turbine - but marked it before removal. http://www.autostyle.co.za/category/performance%20par/
There is also a T3/T4 and the T25 i Mentioned if you see above link. Will I suffer LAG if i use that size?

The turbines just started to touch the turbo housings when I had removed it. I was Much better when I had installed the kit.

I'm going to imagine that it was out of balance bud. Or something wasn't done right.

If you are going to look at a t3/t4, rather look at a t25g or t26r/t28rs. Less fettling and much less laggy and can be run with few supporting mods.

t3/t4 require custom map, new manifold and a few other supporting mods. A T28 can even be run on a standard map temporarily at low boost untill you have built up the mods and get it mapped.

What is the stock turbo model fit to the car?
I will rather keep it as is. Other option is to take the turbo to turbo exchange and let them have a look.... Will the t25 (GT1548 T2.5
) they have at Autostyle do the job?

djtreble wrote:I'm going to imagine that it was out of balance bud. Or something wasn't done right.

If you are going to look at a t3/t4, rather look at a t25g or t26r/t28rs. Less fettling and much less laggy and can be run with few supporting mods.

t3/t4 require custom map, new manifold and a few other supporting mods. A T28 can even be run on a standard map temporarily at low boost untill you have built up the mods and get it mapped.

i run a t3t4 turbo at 0.8bar boost no problem on std map only upgrade is fmic and zorst so if you got that then run it


that turbo like i said is to small ive looked at it and laughed it was tiny it a t2 more that a t25

The Autostyle one isn't right. It is tiny!

The T25 is the standard turbo for the CA. The Garrett code for it is:
GT2554R - 471171-3
GT2560R - 466541-1
GT2560R - 466541-4

They are all ball bearing though, not sure they make genuine t25's new anymore.

T3/T4 will require new mainfold

djtreble wrote:The Autostyle one isn't right. It is tiny!

The T25 is the standard turbo for the CA. The Garrett code for it is:
GT2554R - 471171-3
GT2560R - 466541-1
GT2560R - 466541-4

They are all ball bearing though, not sure they make genuine t25's new anymore.

T3/T4 will require new mainfold

std turbos arent ball bearing i wish

but yea that autostyle one is for a 1.1 or so its small

Yeah that's why I said they are all ball bearing, which makes me think they don't make the standard t25 anymore (ie. non-ball bearing)