Advance Timing
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- ChemCool
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Advance Timing
Jay Boy,
Question, to change the timing to what ever degrees, do we need to fool the ECU in any way? Or is it as simple by turning the crank angle sensor?
For e.g. do we need to remove the TPsensor or something similar? May be I must invest in that fancy timing light you spoke about, but first need to know pratically how to change the timing. What will the ECU do when you simply change the timing? Or again, we set the timing light for the required degrees, move the crank angle sensor to the designated angles and all will be fine???
Question, to change the timing to what ever degrees, do we need to fool the ECU in any way? Or is it as simple by turning the crank angle sensor?
For e.g. do we need to remove the TPsensor or something similar? May be I must invest in that fancy timing light you spoke about, but first need to know pratically how to change the timing. What will the ECU do when you simply change the timing? Or again, we set the timing light for the required degrees, move the crank angle sensor to the designated angles and all will be fine???
Freddy I was thinking last night, after I upgraded the turbo stallion told me I'd have to chip the car because of the upgrade, if they didn't tell u the same I wonder why, was it actually nessasary or wasn't it and that is why you have a problem now? It might be because of a fueling problem that you are experiensing jerking on the car......
- ChemCool
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Derek I dont think so. The ECU can handle all nicely and safely to 1 Bar boost anyway. That includes feuling. And that was also my whole idea of getting more pwer without changing the chip. Right now the car is running ok, because I changed it back as it was. I dont think your comments can be that wrong either, it looks like with the sx anything is possible. It is just that for a moment to change timing on the sx is complex, than rather simple suppose to be. All I know now is, that the smallest movement on the crank angle sensor in the wrong way, lets the power falls.
AAA THE GASKETS..... still Freddy, remember, the compressor wheel is bigger now it still might read 1bar but because of it you might need more air/fuel....maybe because of the GASKETS it's restricting the exhaust outlet, you must remember you can get the gaskets from midas and those places, just match your old ones, no wayting. Let your car be dynod after the gaskets then you may get moore clarity on your problem.
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Gaskets!! I said it as well. & after changing them myself a couple of time on my old SX & once on my new one, I have the right to say it.
The gaskets can be matched but trust me the quality is not the same. I say let's do it right the first time. Take your old Gaskets out & get someone to cut a copper one instead. Copper is more robust, can handle higher heat & has the durability to expand & contract with out getting brittle.
Copper gaskets are a little more but I'm not sure. I don't even know where to get them made.
The gaskets can be matched but trust me the quality is not the same. I say let's do it right the first time. Take your old Gaskets out & get someone to cut a copper one instead. Copper is more robust, can handle higher heat & has the durability to expand & contract with out getting brittle.
Copper gaskets are a little more but I'm not sure. I don't even know where to get them made.
Whether you get gaskets from midas... or nissan, you still need to patch both with fire gum or something to make it work, I'd say fire gum or any subtance doing the same makes the gasket hold, it's same wheather it's a nissan or midas special.Just an opinion
I've actually heard of people using normal silicone with the gasket and never having a problem...
I've actually heard of people using normal silicone with the gasket and never having a problem...
- Daniel
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Ok setting the timing is easy as. I prefer the method shown in the manual on page EF & EC 23. Which is pretty much just using a old spark plug wire from a car with a distributor, sticking one end on the No.1 spark plug and the other end into the coil. Then you can just use a timing gun connected to the plug wire for an accurate result.
If you look at your crank pulley there are marks to use to check for timing. The are 6 marks and are in this order from left to right.
-5 0 5 10 15 20 ( '0' being TDC)
What you do to adjust the timing is loosen the three bolts on the CAS and turn it clockwise to retard the timing and anti-clockwise to advance the timing. I found that a 1mm adjustment on the CAS altered the timing by around 1 degree.
If you look at your crank pulley there are marks to use to check for timing. The are 6 marks and are in this order from left to right.
-5 0 5 10 15 20 ( '0' being TDC)
What you do to adjust the timing is loosen the three bolts on the CAS and turn it clockwise to retard the timing and anti-clockwise to advance the timing. I found that a 1mm adjustment on the CAS altered the timing by around 1 degree.
sig[/sig]
- Jay_boy
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Hey sorry for taking so long to reply Freddy but been having a hectic week at work sofar!! yes it is that easy to set the timing, the only thing the crank angle sensor does is to tell your ecu when to fire what cylender but like what we spoke about take baby steps adjust her a little and take her for a test drive then adjust her some more till you feel that she pulled alot better the previous time and then just adjust her back to the prvious setting!! as easy as PIE, but dont drive her like a granny give her some stick cos if she is gonna have a knock its not gonna be at low rpm, incase she starts to develop a knock in yhe motor just adjust her one step back!! you cant miss the sound of a knock [(ping)(predetonation) all the same thing] let me know how it went Freddy??
Sucks gas and hauls ass! Catch my DRIFT????