Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

can someone please explain the compound ratings, and where to get a list of them for different tires?

veecee wrote:can someone please explain the compound ratings, and where to get a list of them for different tires?

Let me deal with the easiest one first.

The followng truths may freak the living sh!t out of you, but here goes...I love reality! HAHAHA



UTQG Rating is:

Treadwear
Traction
Temperature

i.e the 180 AA A

Means Treadwear rating of 180
Traction rating of AA
Temperature Rating of A

What this really means to you and me is:
Treadwear rating: The expected lifespan of the tyre, this is always a guideline and is dependent on a number of factors: Tyre Compound and more importantly Tyre use/abuse. The tyres are tested in a specific manner under specific conditions. and a reading is gathered....alsmost like a measuring index... So.100 could be a benchmark for instance...so a tyre rated at 400 will in theory last 4 times longer than a tyre test to last a wear rating of 100. This generally takes into account one style of driving or 'abuse' . but it really means the following in the real world

The tyres performance depends on:
conditions of their use,
driving habits,
maintainence habits *rotating, balancing, etc*
differing road surfaces/characteristics and
climate.

Traction:

Tracton is graded in a Best to Worst rating that is measured as AA, A, B and C..go figure...This means essentially how good a tire stops in the wet under braking. Also measured to a specific set of conditions and an index is developed as mentioned above.

AA=Superb Wet weather braking
A=Good Wet Weather Braking
B=Average
C=Poor

With this said someone who lives in an always dry climate, doesn't need to worry with a tyre that has an AA rating.....C rating will do just fine for them. i.e. If you live in the desert where there are tarred roads and no rain.....a crappy C rated tyre works just as well as an AA tyre for you because it never rains...but when it does....you better off with a better rated tyre.

People generally drive more cautiously when it's wet or the surface conditions aren't favourable.

NB: Test refer to braking in a straight line and not any other braking conditions....i.e. Braking at an angle or in a bend, does not test hydroplaning resistance, dry traction, snow traction.

Temperature:
Here the tyres are tested to see how well they avoid over-heating and how well they get rid of heat.

Anyone remember Potenza RE71's a hell of a good long distance tyre....never got hot!

anyway.

similar rating applies here A, B, C.
A=Good/Excellent
B=Average
C=Poor

Basically long distances in a single trp on a C rated tyre could be dangerous.

A tyre that gets hot and cannot get rid of that heat will also affect treadwear, and handling *traction rating* and could become dangerous....even explode..




SO basically always ensure your tyres are properly inflated and not overloaded.

nice write up there, makes more sense now

yeah thanks dude...

maybe one of the more bored and less lazy mods can move that to the tech section?

Thanx! nice writeup like rat said.

and VC... added to tech section.

Guy wrote:My Pirelli P6000's on my old Alfa were 140 or 180 UTQG rating and that is hardly a soft compound.

The Toyo R888 Semi slicks I use for autocrossing are 100, and I'd consider anything harder than that to be a road tyre. That Federal hardly looks like a semi slick either compared to the Toyo's or the Bridgestone semis.

A true semi slick is night and day difference in grip and cornering, and they're not bad in the wet either (Toyo R888 is listed by Toyo as a wet weather race tyre) The only problem's are the semis wear quickly and are very noisy, low frequency tread noise.

ok

To each their own...know what I mean.

In your case then your pirelli's were just bad tyres.

In other words 'road' tyres that didn't last long.

You have to look at the overall offering, not pick out the things you want to look at.

Directional tyres are generally noisey.

Problem is tyres arent tested by an external company like crash tests are. Each company that manufactures the tyres rate them and its basically a rating or 1-3 which is very crude.

My Toyos handle FAR better than my Yokis or Michelins did but all 3 had the same traction, temp and wear ratings.

veecee wrote:yeah thanks dude...

maybe one of the more bored and less lazy mods can move that to the tech section?

It's not really that techie./..is it? I kinda expected lotsa people to know that... Maybe we should all look at what we have on our cars and ask questions about it.I mean really ask...

I know I don't mind asking something if I don't know...like a few months ago I didn't what the heck and SR20DET was I assumed 2litre, knew it was a nissan engine , And I assumed T was Turbo...but what the DE means is beyond me.

D = double overhead cam
E = electronic ignition, i.e. coils on plugs

i currently have toyo's on the golf - 225/40/18's proxes4.

the thing handles like its rails - like nothing i've ever driven before. not sure if its the car or the tires - but my gawd - it just goes where i point it, no matter what!!!

havent had the car long enough to talk about wear rates, or wet weather traction, etc

Gary57 wrote:Problem is tyres arent tested by an external company like crash tests are. Each company that manufactures the tyres rate them and its basically a rating or 1-3 which is very crude.

My Toyos handle FAR better than my Yokis or Michelins did but all 3 had the same traction, temp and wear ratings.

YES! Most companies use it a marketing ploy....others use it as guideline..the problem is that it's never really governed...you know ...really really governed..I mean SABS would really be a worthwhile entity IMO if....they tested manufacturerers claims. Guess that would cost but it would be be better.

You also have to take into account the rating are in most cases estimates IMO.

The actual Silica compound and design pattern as well as actual tyre structure contributes more than you know.

I would say a Michelin Pilot Sport for example is a 80 A A. But I would say it's a 80 low A, high A if you get what I mean....it's not really that good for wet weather braking.....but it's good getting rid of heat and not overheating.....

Ag I guess it's a moviese long discussion that needs to be had in person....I know I always have this with the okes at the track....lol....

At least I test my theories.... Like this Sunday...who's in CPT and coming to the MSA Drags?

Eish we kinda messed it up with the DET story..

Yor my fingers are tired of typing now...I'm off to prep the car for Sunday's drags...later peeps...

P.S. So in short next time you look to buy any tyre.....check the sidewall for the Treadwear Rating.

most passenger tyres should read 340 A A, just apply the above you may just begin to understand why it's slightly more than a tyre rated 240 B A,

Comparing Passenger tyres to UHP or Competition Tyres is like comparing apples and cement...so spend some time when doing this. YOu have to understand what the tyre is intended for.

sewercyde my tires are 280 a a is this a deacent rating

It just shows that it has a good tempreture rating just not a very good traction rating, AA A is ideal.

Gary57 wrote:It just shows that it has a good tempreture rating just not a very good traction rating, AA A is ideal.

I have the Dunlops Sport 6060.. whats your take on those tires. From my experience they a bit noisy but its the first tym I fitted 18's on.

Any feed back would be good.

poizen wrote:sewercyde my tires are 280 a a is this a deacent rating

it's an average rating...but as I mention all these are relative....if the tyre is advertised as a long life, passenger tyre then you see ratings as high as 420, ultimate grip might suck. It all depends on how manufactures tend to produce their range of tyres.

What I'd suggest is....next time check before you buy
Anyone with MY-01's....check it...you'll be surprised.