Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

Hi

1. My clutch fluid(Brake fluid) keeps coking, and its difficult to select gears when the car is cold, especially 1st and reverse. When the car heats up its fine and works perfectly.
I flushed the system but it started again can anyone advise whats up?
Is the master cylinder going or whats causing it to do this?

2. Dos anyone have the Ferrodo part number for the rear brake pads?

3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??

Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?

If I set it to hard would this help?

Any hel from the guru's would be appreciated.

Shotalot

1. Change your gear box oil not you clutch fluid.

2. Ferrodo dont make rear pads, use ATE.

3. Better throttle response, yes. Revs faster no.

If it is cheap kak knock off then yes it could be leaking esspecially if its on its softest level. Try setting the BOV harder and see if it improves.

Cool What GBox oil should I use???

Redline is good, but generally all decent oil will do.

3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??

Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?

If I set it to hard would this help?

Does it rev faster before or during boost?

Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:

3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??

Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?

If I set it to hard would this help?

Does it rev faster before or during boost?

Before boost

ATE rear pads are AG 590.

Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:
Quote:
3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??

Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?

If I set it to hard would this help?


Does it rev faster before or during boost?


Before boost

Hmmm

Heres my theory as I cant prove it, Your BOV is sticking slightly open sucking in air, leaning out the AFR causing the increased throttle response and increased revving until the vacuum reaches zero and the bov closes.

Its easy to check spray a little car cleaner into the bov, if the rev's dropthen the item is leaking

Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:

Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:
Quote:
3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??

Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?

If I set it to hard would this help?


Does it rev faster before or during boost?


Before boost

Hmmm

Heres my theory as I cant prove it, Your BOV is sticking slightly open sucking in air, leaning out the AFR causing the increased throttle response and increased revving until the vacuum reaches zero and the bov closes.

Its easy to check spray a little car cleaner into the bov, if the rev's dropthen the item is leaking

Good theory!

Charlvdw wrote:

Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:

Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:
Quote:
3. I fitted an atmospheric BOV RS type (Greddy Knock off), I set it to the softest level so it dumps early. I noticed I get a better throttle response and revs faster is this possible??

Also when the enige heats up I feel I get less boost, can the heated BOV cause a boost leak?

If I set it to hard would this help?


Does it rev faster before or during boost?


Before boost

Hmmm

Heres my theory as I cant prove it, Your BOV is sticking slightly open sucking in air, leaning out the AFR causing the increased throttle response and increased revving until the vacuum reaches zero and the bov closes.

Its easy to check spray a little car cleaner into the bov, if the rev's dropthen the item is leaking

Good theory!

Well you are very logical and it makes sense so I'll givit a try, with Carb cleaner though lol

Anyways, our company over paid us for a couple of months so now Im in a financial fix for a few months and I need some help.

This weekend Im gonna have to change my G/Box oil myself, is it simple?

How is is done?

How many Litres do I have to fill?

How do I drain what is left?

Wehere do you fill the oil?

Can PFB or Gary or who ever did it before give me a step by step guide on how its done.

Thanks

D

Firstly the car has to be level. The drain plug wil be at the bottom of the gearbox. the filler plug would be on the side of the box ,normaly square bolt. You fill the box till it runs out of the filler hole/level indicator.

Basically what Charlvdw said but I fill the box through the shifter because the correct filler bolt is a biatch to fill through.

I do loosen the nut to check the level

Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:Basically what Charlvdw said but I fill the box through the shifter because the correct filler bolt is a biatch to fill through.

I do loosen the nut to check the level

ok I got it.

How did you fill it through the shifter????

+/- how many litres does it take?

Drillergy wrote:

Pinkfluffybunnys wrote:Basically what Charlvdw said but I fill the box through the shifter because the correct filler bolt is a biatch to fill through.

I do loosen the nut to check the level

ok I got it.

How did you fill it through the shifter????

+/- how many litres does it take?

think its like 3lt? or 2.5...

you need to ondo all the shifter bolts (6) and then move it over and pour it in. also did it that way, but my g/box was totally drained.. so didn't need to check the levels.

or you could remove the shifter without undoing any bolts? duh