Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

My car has had a slight "miss" if you wanna call it that since the day I bought it.

It revs fine but on idle the car shakes slightly.

Now, I recently changed the plugs. Took out the BKR6EKs and put in BCPR6ES plugs. Car ran smoother but the slight "miss" was still there.

however, every now and again when I've been running her hard she will start limping on 3 cylinders. Then when she's cooled down she's fine again. Do I have a dutt spark plug or do you think it's a coilpack? or worse?

I had that - turns out the vacuum line from the solenoid (near the power transitor) to the fuel pressure regulator was disconnected. After reconnecting - smooth idle. Hope that helps.

I have the same problem...

me too. when cold at start up it runs on 3 pots for a couple of seconds, goes fine after that. then in trafic driving when it gets hot it gets that un even idling. rev it to about 1500 rpm and the mis is very evident but it sounds pretty cool. just anoying when you want to pull away and have to wait for the revs to struggle past 1500 rpm. don't think it is plug related. and in my case definately not due to a vacume pipe.

I wish the CA18DET cars had a consult plug like SR20's so you can just get an instant diagnosis.

Or does anybody have the error codes for the ECU?

My experience with the NA CA18DE's are that the coil packs are very fragile, so is the CAS and the Ignition Spark Module.

Doctor G wrote:I wish the CA18DET cars had a consult plug like SR20's so you can just get an instant diagnosis.

Or does anybody have the error codes for the ECU?

My experience with the NA CA18DE's are that the coil packs are very fragile, so is the CAS and the Ignition Spark Module.

The CA18DET has consult plug aswell.

Error Codes:(apparently)
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit.

just pull in...

i've had to deal with this sort of thing numerous times with my car! we can sort it out no problem.

my car idles dead smooth and every so often it has a blip. It will sit at 800rpm then the blip and it drops to 760rpm then back up to 800rpm. This pisses me off like yo wont believe. Could it be coil pack or it is just one of those things??

i reckon its just the stoopid CA18. every one i've come across does this.

i managed to get mine to stop it, but usually only for a few days before it starts up again. and its intermittent, so its difficult to diagnose!

mines a lot better now, it idles smooth stays on about 850rpm, but when it blips for a micromillisecond, the revs dont drop at all, but the gearknob jumps left to right ever so slightly! and the sound goes from very smooth, to smooth with an occasional blip in it!!!

annnoying? YES!

Can you clean the inside of the engine with brake fluid for carbon deposits through an intake air pipe???
\

carb cleaner - mechanic-in-a-can

I wouldn't recommend spraying carb cleaner into the IM.

Yes it will loosen the gunk but it WILL all simply clog together in a nasty ball in the first spot where your carb cleaner couldnt' reach.

This would generally be the bottom of the runner or the valve or the combustion chamber.

Best to take the IM off and clean it.

Oh yeah Ero thanks for the codes. How do you interpret the flashes from the ECU to arive at a given code?

• And where is the consult plug on the S13?
  Does it take the same plug as the SR20?
  Anyone has a consult?

Doctor G wrote:Oh yeah Ero thanks for the codes. How do you interpret the flashes from the ECU to arive at a given code?

• And where is the consult plug on the S13?
  Does it take the same plug as the SR20?
  Anyone has a consult?

Ok its not exactly the consult(ca18 uses something else), but it is in the fuse box, by the drivers side foot well, loose hanging cable with connector, connects to a checker box, probably only Nissan had those.

First warm engine to OT (about 10 min driving)
There is a screw on the ECU. mark or note what position it is in.
Turn it fully clockwise, lights will flash three times, then turn it fully counter clockwise.

There should be 2 lights on the ECU red and green.
Count the red flashes that would give you the first number eg. 5
Count the green flashes that would give you the second number eg. 5
Gives you code 55.
Then you can compare the code's.

thats not incorrect, but its not all of the info.

the ECU has 5 different diagnostic modes.

also - what do we need codes 64 and 65 for???

LOL - i know. nissan uses common codes across motors which had this type of diagnostic system. so the codes for cylinder 5 and 6, from the RB range of engines!!!