Damn 900 km already....
Shit I dont even have that only on around 500km
Project F
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Ero_sennin
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Ero_sennin
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ChemCool
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The sx is idling again! 
Kilos on the rebuilt now 1450 something. Stock boost setting, standard timing 15 degrees and water /methanol basically disconnected for time being.
I took the car to Maus Performance in Rosslyn Pretoria past Wednesday. I fetched the sx back today. It was actually ready the past Friday, but Maus could not get hold of me.
I always complimented MAUS and want to do it again. Francois, you are brilliant. Yes I know I pay for the service, but that is the way the cookie crumbles. I took Francois one full day to resolve the idling issue. If you think I have done good elimination, then he has done twice that effort. He admits, he struggled to get to the main problem.
First of all the sx was running lean and not rich/over fueled as I stated the affairs. Although I smelled fuel all over and flooded the sx easy on startup.
Toby, we have done good and well with the engine temp sensor issue. The replaced temp sensor was good and Francois just plugged back the harness clip. But of course the other faults were then still there.
This is how it goes what Francois did, and not in a particular order:
1. Fuel pressure test and adjust. He increased the fuel pressure to six bars to fuel the engine properly. And later re adjusts to manual.
2. He totally stripped the BOV and cleaned it. My bad. I only cleaned it sort of outside and not the internals. So the BOV was also sticky, although it appeared not sticking. (I will invest in a quality BOV- and yes Derek I know that).
3. He took the sparkplugs out to confirm the porcelain length. I now understand that some spark plugs are shorter and longer compared. But mine was perfect. My good!
4. One coil spring inside with the round metal piece was not touching the spark plug close enough, and that was on cylinder one. My bad again. I replaced all four coils with Toby’s and the problem persisted. Some how I missed that odd placement of coil spring?????
5. He has done air leakage test on all pipes and manifold. I don’t know, but assume Maus have equipment to do this. So I think I was not in line here. Makes me think of tools needed??
6. Tested the water temp signal sign. I have done that as well. But obviously the other faults were still there while I tried that.
7. CO testing!!! I couldn’t.
8. Check Management harness for faults. Yes I did, but again not well enough rather.
9. Test and change CAS. I have done that, but with no joy. BTW the CAS is fully advanced. He replaced the CAS and the replaced CAS gave results on different placing. This worries me. The sx is now set at base 15 degrees. He will advance the timing of the sx with the unichip when I am ready to connect the water /meth again and when I am ready for the dyno tune. So the CAS will stay fully advanced placed as is.
10. He checked the fuel lines.
11. Set idle control
12. He replaced the unichip also as an unknown, but that was not the suspect any more once replaced.
13. Then: While doing all the other eliminations he found the AFM 0 to 5 volt signal to be pulled down. I replaced the AFM twice. He removed the water/m signal wire attached to that very sensitive varying volts output, suspecting my w/m trigger. But it was not. Once removed the 0 to 5 volts were still pulled down. But not pulled down complete like to zero, but rather giving out lower voltages than normal. E.g. instead of 3v it would display lets say 2.5V, which consequently leads to the sx running lean. He checked the harness from there and all was fine. He cleaned the erosion or oxidation from the AMF sensor on both male and female sides and whala!! He connected back the water /m signal wire and the idle issue still rectified.
With the dyno tune, we will use the unichip to give the signal to the w/m pump which then relieves the signal wire from any load any way. Which I feel is much safer. And the unichip will command much more accurate towards the w/m activation.
It is also more than possible to use the unichip to control the boost. Will need some form of electronic valve or something. But this is not one of my immediate priorities.
Tomorrow when starting the sx cold, I need to confirm the idle jumps up to 1500 rpm, cause I just get the feeling that is not working so well.
Initially I did not expect to be charged R1700 inclusive of VAT for this job done, BUT be careful how we react on this one because of various obvious reasons.
Did I learn from this? You bet I did, and again I love that. Keep in mind that I still can’t measure CO and alike without the tools needed.
The front and back crankshaft seals leaking oil, still needs my attention.
Also one lifter not bringing his side will be replaced some time in feature.
WHEN IS THE NEXT EVENT?????
Chem
Kilos on the rebuilt now 1450 something. Stock boost setting, standard timing 15 degrees and water /methanol basically disconnected for time being.
I took the car to Maus Performance in Rosslyn Pretoria past Wednesday. I fetched the sx back today. It was actually ready the past Friday, but Maus could not get hold of me.
I always complimented MAUS and want to do it again. Francois, you are brilliant. Yes I know I pay for the service, but that is the way the cookie crumbles. I took Francois one full day to resolve the idling issue. If you think I have done good elimination, then he has done twice that effort. He admits, he struggled to get to the main problem.
First of all the sx was running lean and not rich/over fueled as I stated the affairs. Although I smelled fuel all over and flooded the sx easy on startup.
Toby, we have done good and well with the engine temp sensor issue. The replaced temp sensor was good and Francois just plugged back the harness clip. But of course the other faults were then still there.
This is how it goes what Francois did, and not in a particular order:
1. Fuel pressure test and adjust. He increased the fuel pressure to six bars to fuel the engine properly. And later re adjusts to manual.
2. He totally stripped the BOV and cleaned it. My bad. I only cleaned it sort of outside and not the internals. So the BOV was also sticky, although it appeared not sticking. (I will invest in a quality BOV- and yes Derek I know that).
3. He took the sparkplugs out to confirm the porcelain length. I now understand that some spark plugs are shorter and longer compared. But mine was perfect. My good!
4. One coil spring inside with the round metal piece was not touching the spark plug close enough, and that was on cylinder one. My bad again. I replaced all four coils with Toby’s and the problem persisted. Some how I missed that odd placement of coil spring?????
5. He has done air leakage test on all pipes and manifold. I don’t know, but assume Maus have equipment to do this. So I think I was not in line here. Makes me think of tools needed??
6. Tested the water temp signal sign. I have done that as well. But obviously the other faults were still there while I tried that.
7. CO testing!!! I couldn’t.
8. Check Management harness for faults. Yes I did, but again not well enough rather.
9. Test and change CAS. I have done that, but with no joy. BTW the CAS is fully advanced. He replaced the CAS and the replaced CAS gave results on different placing. This worries me. The sx is now set at base 15 degrees. He will advance the timing of the sx with the unichip when I am ready to connect the water /meth again and when I am ready for the dyno tune. So the CAS will stay fully advanced placed as is.
10. He checked the fuel lines.
11. Set idle control
12. He replaced the unichip also as an unknown, but that was not the suspect any more once replaced.
13. Then: While doing all the other eliminations he found the AFM 0 to 5 volt signal to be pulled down. I replaced the AFM twice. He removed the water/m signal wire attached to that very sensitive varying volts output, suspecting my w/m trigger. But it was not. Once removed the 0 to 5 volts were still pulled down. But not pulled down complete like to zero, but rather giving out lower voltages than normal. E.g. instead of 3v it would display lets say 2.5V, which consequently leads to the sx running lean. He checked the harness from there and all was fine. He cleaned the erosion or oxidation from the AMF sensor on both male and female sides and whala!! He connected back the water /m signal wire and the idle issue still rectified.
With the dyno tune, we will use the unichip to give the signal to the w/m pump which then relieves the signal wire from any load any way. Which I feel is much safer. And the unichip will command much more accurate towards the w/m activation.
It is also more than possible to use the unichip to control the boost. Will need some form of electronic valve or something. But this is not one of my immediate priorities.
Tomorrow when starting the sx cold, I need to confirm the idle jumps up to 1500 rpm, cause I just get the feeling that is not working so well.
Initially I did not expect to be charged R1700 inclusive of VAT for this job done, BUT be careful how we react on this one because of various obvious reasons.
Did I learn from this? You bet I did, and again I love that. Keep in mind that I still can’t measure CO and alike without the tools needed.
The front and back crankshaft seals leaking oil, still needs my attention.
Also one lifter not bringing his side will be replaced some time in feature. WHEN IS THE NEXT EVENT?????
Chem
1700??? 
damn dude.
but it sounds like he had his work cut out for him. but you still didn't tell us exactly what was causing the poor idling. was it the corroded connectors of the AFM???
was it the water temp sender that was disconnected???
was it the coil spring not touching the sparkplug???
was it all of these things???
and the thing with the CAS sounds a little dodgy. if its set to fully advance, but your timing is only on 15 degrees, does that not mean that something else is set incorrectly??? i ask because i used to have this problem, before i set my timing belt properly and replaced the bearings on my CAS.
but its great that its working lekka. now you need to wire in that pressure solenoid so that the unichip can control your boost!
damn dude.
but it sounds like he had his work cut out for him. but you still didn't tell us exactly what was causing the poor idling. was it the corroded connectors of the AFM???
was it the water temp sender that was disconnected???
was it the coil spring not touching the sparkplug???
was it all of these things???
and the thing with the CAS sounds a little dodgy. if its set to fully advance, but your timing is only on 15 degrees, does that not mean that something else is set incorrectly??? i ask because i used to have this problem, before i set my timing belt properly and replaced the bearings on my CAS.
but its great that its working lekka. now you need to wire in that pressure solenoid so that the unichip can control your boost!
ReeceZ wrote:I'm sorry... I couldn't help it. Please no one wish any hateful shit on me, I own an SX already
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widowmaker
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