Project - Evil D (L28... err... RB25 scratch that CA18.... nope wrong again swapped SilEighty)

hentiebez · Post by **hentiebez** » Tue Oct 05, 2010 3:54 pm

awesome Riekert amper daar.

Riekert · Post by **Riekert** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 1:37 pm

thanx hentie

should be able to start it tonite...

now the next question is... with the rings ect being new will it cause a issue if I let it start and Idle for a while, switch it off and only after everything is done start and drive it? or will this initial startup and turnoff cause any issues?

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 2:21 pm

I believe you should crank the engine without starting it until oil pressure is built up. Then you can start it and everything will be fine.

phoenix s14 · Post by **phoenix s14** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 3:58 pm

You definately should do that. What you do is remove the plugs and coils and unplug the injectors. then crank it until the oil light goes out. that way you are sure there is oil everywhere before starting it up. believe me if the oil light does not go out you have problems. the oil light is HUGELY underated safety device. Many make the mistake and think the sensor is faulty etc. then there is no pressure. Check it check it again and then re check it. also did you spin the engine by hand a bit to check that all the rings are seated properly? them thin oem SR oil rings like climbing out on the tip and scraping the barrel.

Good luck! Hope another SR fires again!

Riekert · Post by **Riekert** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 4:10 pm

Thanx guys! yeah hentiebez also said I should do this.

I did turn the motor by hand and it seemed to be fine without any scratching.

Will have 2 oil pressure guages handy don't worry

hehe. so will know if something is wrong.

Now the other thing is the run in... I've read a few different stories and ways how to, but this one seemed to stick:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

What you guys think?

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 4:20 pm

Anyone?

As much as I'd like to be able to just jump in the car and rape the engine straight after rebuild I don't personally think its a good idea. With what experience you ask? none, just my opinion.

Busy running in my engine the old fashioned way. keep it moving through the revs. keep it off boost mostly. accelerate in a higher gear from low speeds to load the engine. that sort of thing

phoenix s14 · Post by **phoenix s14** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 10:19 pm

I agree!
I have honestly never seen as much BS in all my life (THE ARTICLE)

Well in my opinion anyway.

best way to run in is to NOT run the motor hard the first 500km at all. going only as high as 3000RPM MAX!!!. Also it is important NOT to load the engine and to rather change down a gear than to slave the engine at full throttle in a higher gear. Until the first service you can run a standard oil with good engine cleaning properties. typically I use Caltex Havoline 20W50. It has a way of cleaning everything so they are nice and shiny.

Run the motor up to 4000-4500rpm for the next 500-1000km. Here from time to time you can give it some beans.

SERVICE! - change the oil and filter at least. This is so you get rid of all the micro bits of metal caught by the filter etc.

Reason for a CAREFULL run-in is that parts are rough and because of the extra friction they run hot. forcing things during this could cause INSTANT failure. For those that have never opened a nissan motor (and the reason I love em so much) - I opened the SR @180000 and the motor still had the original honing marks - my GA16 and my CA had the same marks at 250000 and 230000km!

These motors are really hard and dont wear much so the run in can really not be rushed. ALSO remember it is called run-in for a reason not startup and break it.

My 2c - SOFTLY - but in my opinion it all depends how long you want it to last.

nirvash · Post by **nirvash** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 10:33 pm

just take it on the moerse long drive from here to jap fest really slowly just cruising then tear it up at the track when you get there

Riekert · Post by **Riekert** » Wed Oct 06, 2010 10:38 pm

Thanx man! that really helps alot...

So soft breakin is the way to go then

well I had a bit of a hiccup... I forgot to charge my battery

swung the motor a couple of times and then nothing *facepalm* so ja... couldnt get it started... its charging atm

there is a funny noise though... an yes its not a funny haha noise... FFS, I'm gonna try start it tomorrow but if its bad I'm screwed...

fun times

P3g4sus · Post by **P3g4sus** » Thu Oct 07, 2010 7:02 am

Hahahaha, no battery no start

Shit dude, what kind of noise?!

Hope its nothing serious!

Riekert · Post by **Riekert** » Thu Oct 07, 2010 7:37 am

jip

so seems I owe you a six pack. haha

a knocking noise... not sure wtf it is though... as I checked and rechecked everything before I closed it up... sigh...

P3g4sus · Post by **P3g4sus** » Thu Oct 07, 2010 7:52 am

Riekert wrote:jip so seems I owe you a six pack. haha

a knocking noise... not sure wtf it is though... as I checked and rechecked everything before I closed it up... sigh...

It seems so! but thats not important now, what do you think it can be?

Riekert · Post by **Riekert** » Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:30 pm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pN9MOYijj0

have a listen and you tell me

DriftZ · Post by **DriftZ** » Thu Oct 07, 2010 6:58 pm

fingers crossed its something small!

Riekert · Post by **Riekert** » Fri Oct 08, 2010 12:49 am

Well got a few comments of FB about the vid... it seems it might be a valve hitting the piston... as the headgasket might not be to spec for the amount they skimmed off the head.

so... next task... remove head... get proper head gasket... refit and recheck... thing is it only knocks like that when swinging... and it doesn't want to start... so yes... will pull the head this weekend

yay! o.O

ok... so wish me luck that I didn't bend a valve of damage a piston or the head in my swinging mission....