Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

With a 0.64 exhaust side I assume

hentiebez wrote:just get CP's instead of Aries, way less piston slap

ok didnt realize,thought you going to buy new one's my bad

found this rule of thumb....

T25...Stock, 256/256
T28...Stock, 256/256, 256/264
GT28RS....256/256, 256/264, 264/264
GT2871R .64.....256/264, 264/264
GT2871R .86.....264/264, 264/272, 272/272
GT3071R .63.....264/264, 264/272
GT30R.....264/272
GT35R.....272/272

Thanks Wynand!!

RB25SX wrote:Just go for a GT3071R (R7500 + VAT from Turbo direct), should have best response with decent power.

AR64!

.. been emailing Chris from Turbo Direct ... what exhaust housing will work on the GT3071'. as it only comes with an internal WG housing which doesnt suit my current T3 setup. Even the GTX3071 comes minus exhaust housing. The guys at Turbo direct reckon its cheaper to get a Tial Exhaust housing.. @ R4400 ( eeish )

Yip, you are going to struggle with the exhaust housing for external wastegate, we also had some trouble finding one, there is some sort of back log apparently? I know Duane said something like that, just hear with him if he can help you.

mario_200sx wrote:Yip, you are going to struggle with the exhaust housing for external wastegate, we also had some trouble finding one, there is some sort of back log apparently? I know Duane said something like that, just hear with him if he can help you.

cool will do if i dont come right.. shot

Nicely done man!! Gonna be epic with that turbo!

Mical and i have decided to rebuild my motor.. slowly and correctly

In the meantime ive been lucky enough to find a temporary motor.. with the same internals / parts as my current motor.. well everything except the cams.. so it should slide into my setup quite nicely.

Micals already started giving it a little tear down and all the brand' bits are in place as said by the seller.. so we're pretty happy so far.

the intake cam on the new motor is badly damaged on the front lobe.. we suspect the cam oil squirter for that lobe is blocked.

i remember someone having the same issue before.. are the squirter lines easy to clear? i was thing we just run thinners and some air pressure to blow out the muck...?

Started stripping my motor to move a few things across onto the new motor... ive found a puddle of oil inside my Freddy intake mani..! Im going to take the IC off as im worried its also got oil in it. But otherside seems fine.. turbo has a little play in it but nothing serious.. ?

... the intake cam on the new motor is badly damaged on the front lobe.. we suspect the cam oil squirter for that lobe is blocked.
i remember someone having the same issue before.. are the squirter lines easy to clear? i was thinking we just run thinners and some air pressure to blow out the muck...?

Ideally you want to replace them as cleaning them can just move the blocking oil somewhere else in the tube (like the end) and it will cause problems at a later stage. I don't think they are too expensive and its a good piece of mind knowing they are definitely clear.

If the turbo play is sideways (not to much) the turbo is fine,if its forwards and backwards sort it before u put it back.

djtreble wrote:Ideally you want to replace them as cleaning them can just move the blocking oil somewhere else in the tube (like the end) and it will cause problems at a later stage. I don't think they are too expensive and its a good piece of mind knowing they are definitely clear.

i guess you right. and it is currently blocked at the end starving the first lobe of oil.

Draco wrote:If the turbo play is sideways (not to much) the turbo is fine,if its forwards and backwards sort it before u put it back.

it is forward and back .. like 1mm... its fine anyway.. the new Gt30 is sitting pretty waiting for its turn on the SR

DriftZ wrote:i was thing we just run thinners and some air pressure to blow out the muck...?

Cut the ends off, clean them out and re-weld them.

The only true way to clean them properly is to cut the ends off (or drill a small hole) and use benzine/thinners and pipe cleaners to clean them out properly. Then close the ends again.

The best way I found was cutting the end cap off as close to the cap as possible with a very fine hacksaw. Using a drill stand clean out the old material from inside the little cap. Once everything is nice and clean - gently and using as little material as possible - braze the caps back on.

That's how I did it and I never looked back. Alternatively use DE sprayers - the holes are slightly bigger and less prone to blocking.

2c added