Shogun, +700bhp ca18det

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:04 pm

It hurt to cut the brand new front bumper, but it had to be done to maximize the cooling. This picture show the opening just before I started working with the epoxy and fibre.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:04 pm

Got a comment on another site *lol*

[QUOTE=deeezandsauce;1556928]FCUK.. i'd reuse your old oil this car is soo damn clean..... i think we all were kinda scared of this build when you slapped those original aero pics up.. then you began to stroke us so gingerly with part after part of pure win. Hero of the year!![/QUOTE]

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:05 pm

A picture to give you a hint about the size.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:05 pm

Had some fun with the daily today

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:06 pm

Ouch!
Don't know what happened, sort of got me some extra rims :p

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:06 pm

Thanks to Kloma wheels Tyres and graphix Anders I got new rubber on the rims

Semi-slick Federal 595RS-R 235/40/18 front and 265/35/18 rear.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:06 pm

Bought a large box of oil.

(8 l engine oil) Motul 300V Competition 15W-50 Racing lubricant for racing cars

(5 l gearbox oil) Motul Gear 300 75W-90 Racing gearbox lubricant 100% Synthetic – Ester based

(6 l LSD oil) Fuchs Titan Race Gear 90 LS High Performance Limited Slip Diff Oil (formerly known as Silkolene BOA 90 LS)

(1.5 l brake and clutch fluid) Motul RBF 660 Factory Line race brake fluid

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:07 pm

The original watercooled oilcooler, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak.

There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it:

Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator.

Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts.

Here it has been dismounted.

A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight.

In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw).

Original stud dismounted.

In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block.

It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number according to Nissan is 15213-W040A. I have ordered one and will test it to be 100% sure it is the correct part.
The valve I will mount in the filter holder.

Stud, 15213-W040A, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed).

Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them.

I use them all.

Oilcooler thermo plate.

Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate.

Filter relocation kit.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:07 pm

Yesterday I was informed the new R-tyres are on their way and they should be delivered to me today. The flush fit wheel air valves have also been shipped. Soon time to get it all assembled and balanced. Exciting

I have that kind of valve on my other wheels too and they bring a nice touch to it.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:08 pm

It turned out very well with the flush valves on the new wheels I use for the R-tyres. Pictures to be posted after next round in the garage. I will have to remember to always keep the air fill adatper in the car from now on.

When the tyres were mounted on to the rims, they had to pump them up to more than 4 Bar of pressure. It sounded like a big cannon in the tyre shop. My poor ears...I wasn't prepared at all... at least not when the first tyre went on.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:08 pm

Mounted some parts. It will be ok but as shown, there is lots to adjust regarding wheel alignment and I will also adjustthe track both front and rear. At the rear, there is plenty of Camber but still a slight gap between the tyre and the fender. At the front, there is also some space for adjustments. I will decide how much I want to slam the car when the coilovers have settled. The steering angle has improved with the spacers mounted on the inner tie rods.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:09 pm

Some OEM-parts I picked up today:

Holder for the license plate lights.

Fasteners and washers for the camshaft brackets (total 24pcs of each).

Over pressure valve and oil filter stud to remove the OEM oilcooler.

Fasteners, washers and nuts for the outgoing drive shafts on the diff flanges (total 12pcs of each).

Fasteners, washers and nuts for the prop shaft on the ingoing flange on the diff (total 12pcs of each).

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:09 pm

ChargeSpeed supplied by BadAssParts. Test mounted prior to paintjob.

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:10 pm

A bracket to relocate the license plate and a ignition key light

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:10 pm

A brief summary of what I'm working on regarding aerodynamics of the car: