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Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:00 pm
by RAW
Its possible to make the CA18 make 500wkw, it just depends how much money you want to spend,,
One of the biggest things for track days is oil volume, oil temprature and cooling, coupled with a very safe map, any knock at continued higher RPM driving will kill it fast. get your oiling and cooling done properly and you will reduce your chance of engine damage at the track 10 fold no matter what power you run.
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:26 pm
by Gary57
I think a CA could make 250RwKw with a fair bit of ease, but what would be next to go at these levels?? I know the CA18 pistons aren't strong but I have heard the rods are good for 400Kw, how strong is the crank??
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 8:55 pm
by RAW
I would be willing to bet at 250wkw your rods would snap or bend within a few thousand KM's
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:31 pm
by Gary57
Now there is a problem because CA rods are expensive. It is starting to look like the SR is a better route, maybe RB for me.
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:42 pm
by RAW
Hence the fact I said under 200kw the CA is great, over and your just throwing money at it,,,
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:53 pm
by Trance101
While we are on the topic, RAW what do u think the ca18det is capable of on stock internals? Is 200rwkw the limit or would it be before then?
Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2008 10:14 pm
by HancoB
Ok seriously I dont get the point of all this fighting!
If you want something to last long dont push it to the edge, dont mod it, be happy with stock. There is a reason why they built it that way!
and go with what you like, if you like CA then go CA, if you like SR then go SR, if you want RB then go RB.
Make sure you have the money to do what you want. If you dont have the money dont bitch about it and then dont try to do it!
and all these mad figures that was given...uhm damn guys!
G, go with what your heart tells you! You will have to drive the car not the other people. If you dont like what you drive then why do you.
I like my CA18, its my daily drive, never gave me a bit crap and its old.
To me its like a Alfa, even tho they are so crap it just gives you this warm fuzzy feeling when you drive it.
ITS ALL ABOUT WHAT YOU WANT AND WHAT YOU LIKE! screw the other people!
Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2008 9:00 am
by Enzio
Interesting read, as for G's original Q:
My rebuild cost about R10k:
- Engineering = R3360 -> Includes lighter flywheel, balanced, head line bored and rebuilt with new valve stem seals, etc.
- ACL bearings
- Rings
- Pumps
- Timing belt
- DE cam (got this for free though)
- Gasket set
- Clutch rebuild (upgraded pressure plate + replaced copper)
- Pilot bush
- Engine temp sensor
- Fan temp sensor
- Accessory belt for A/C (re-installed my A/C - just hope it works)
Anyway - originally though it would cost about R7k and I could maybe add Arias pistons. The costs where way higher than originally planned (this was sort of expected though after realising how the motor was stuffed up by Snail) and I couldn't afford forged stuff.
I feel that the motor was built right with no short-cuts but built within a budget - I don't think the motor will be hugely powerful, though. (Don't know as I'm still running it in only done 550km's since rebuild)
I retain what I had before:
TD04HL-16T
Exhust
Filter
Adjustable FPR
In my opinion: Will I do it again - Yes, I had no choice as piston 2 was turning in the bore

. As for the costs - could have saved a few bucks with cheaper bearings, but that misses the point of doing the rebuild. Lesson learned - engineering work is expensive!!!!
My final 2c - The most important bit to get decent power (and my next mod once I can afford it):
TUNING. whether it be nistune/gotech/whatever.
PS: Thanx again for the help PFB - I really appreciate it. I was seriously considering torching the car but having somebody help out saved my SX's life....
