Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

Included with the new Kouki lights, I got a new and longer boot lock-assembly. I do not want to have more than one key so I made a nice and easy modification.

Here is how to do it. I made a small "how to"
Enjoy.

What will happen when the fuel pump in the tank will suck air instead of fuel?

This could happen when you are on the track or during heavy acceleration. The fuel is forced towards the side of the tank, away from the pump. Especially when the tank is not full.
The air will be pumped into the fuel line, onwards to the fuel rail and via the injectors into the engine.

Most of the time this will cause a noticeable decrease of power and it may also damage your engine.

To stop air entering the fuel system, a surge tank / swirl pot is a very good solution.

I have tested a couple of designs and found two really well working versions. Which one to use is mainly a question of available space. Some install it in the boot, others in the engine bay. I will put mine in the engine bay.

If it is installed in the boot, use Teflon hoses. They are more gas tight compared with ordinary steel braided hoses and will prevent the smell of fuel inside the car. They are also resistant against E85.

To connect the hoses to the surge tank / swirl pot, use AN-connections. Usual sizes like AN-6, AN-8 or AN-10.

The installation is fairly simple. Remember the high pressure pump need rather much power and should be connected over a fused relay. It is recommended to use the ordinary pump power feed as relay control signal.

Boot installation


Engine bay installation


Bosch inline pump (0580254044)


Installation Diagram

Got a Haltech solenoid to control the boost very accurately at each load point.



This is how it will be installed but with the exception that I will use two external Tial wastegate valves.

This story has quite recently been published in a Swedish tuning magazine. The styling will of course look very much different with the Wide Body, new Front Bumper and more



Another short story published in 2010. Winner Round 5.

A complete set of new Carbotech XP8

Front


Rear

Some of todays work:


New bushes on the steering rack.




SPL and Tein outer and inner tie rods and Driftworks lower arms.

Bought some 30pcs of Mikalor Supra Clamps in different sizes.

Picked up my new Tial waste gate valves from Svensk Turboservice yesterday. They came straight from the Tial assembly line in the USA.

Worth waiting for! They are the new, upprated version with integrated water cooling.
How small are they? I compared them with the earlier bolt on 38mm Tial WG and I can tell you. They are very small! Good! Since I do a twin installation and there isn't much space to talk about.

MV-S V2.0
This revamp features water cooling ports, three bottom air ports and two top air ports. Water ports are not required for operation, but come in handy at road racing, the top hat is close to the turbine housing/down pipe or when the engine bay doesn't get a lot of airflow. Air and Water ports are clearly marked so there is no confusion.

Sometimes the difference between big and small is very obvious

The new Driftworks adjustable suspension arm kit. Soon to be Satin Black

All new control arms are now painted satin black and the front suspension is mounted and finished

Today I made a major investment.

I bought a spigot bushing for a massive $8

Part no. is 32202-7f401

For those not familiar with the term, the spigot bushing is a bronze sleeve bearing in the tail end of the crankshaft which carries the nose of the gearbox input shaft to provide proper alignment of the clutch disk.

Soak it in oil for a day or two before you install it. The oil penetrate the tiny holes in the bushing.

The old one is removed with a rod just a tad smaller than the inner diameter of the bushing and some ordinary grease. Fill up the hole with grease, put the rod inside the opening and tap it with a hammer a few times. The rod will press against the grease and the grease will force the bushing out. May take some harder taps if the bushing is a bit grumpy.

Today I installed all rear lower arms and suspension arms I got from Driftworks.

Lots of pins to crimp on the cables for the DTA-ECU. Only remain some heat-shrink tubing and they are all done. The photos show the sensor cables. The Power cables I finished earlier.







The entire DTA-package turned out to be quite small but oh so powerful

ECU Functions


Engine Configuration

20,000 rpm capability
Flexible and easily adapted to different OEM, crank, cam sensor arrangements.
Genuine four and two stroke support.
Twin spark engines.
Twin injector engines.
Sequential or grouped injection.
Individual coils, wasted spark or distributor.
Unequal coil firing capability.
Unequal injection angle capability.
Delayed sequential injection.
User controlled fan activation.
Sensors can be calibrated individually with a lot of preset options supplied.
Flexible Tacho Output
soft and hard rev limits

Main Fuel and Ignition Functions

Two main fuel, spark and turbo maps selected by a dashboard switch.
Comprehensive start up fuelling options both time and temperature dependant.
Air, coolant and manifold pressure compensation maps.
Throttle transient increase compensation.
Throttle transient reduction compensation.
RPM and load breakpoints can be calibrated by the user.
Throttle or MAP as load.
All maps with one or two dimensional with interpolation as required.