Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

Water is not so bad and I would like to a see a GT28RS and any boost level suck a 76mm pipe flat .

its a Nice place

gary i made a duct to screw in behind the little grill on the left hand side - the only problem is that everybody's car is different there - the FMIC people have extra holes in there or extra pipes

will take a pic as soon as i can find bloody camera cable...

The reason mine is not there is because theres a IC in the way and i also dont have the inner fender linings to keep acces water(Draco) away from the filter.

I think you are missing the point Phinx, by having such a long pipe for the turbo to suck air through it needs to work that much harder creating hot air. i think if you have decent ventilation like Widow explained you would OK.

veecee wrote:grating sounds on startup is usually the starter motor teeth that dont engage properly with the flywheel.

The grating sound isn't when starting the engine, I didn't make this very clear. The engine starts fine but as soon as the engine was running it started grating... It had done this once or twice before but the noise usually goes away quickly. This time it lingered for a while... just wondering what it might be.

Anyway my sx is going in for work with Gary today and hopefully it can be sorted before the Ballito run.

As for the the cold air induction discussion, it would be nice to move the cone filter away from those hot boost pipes. Moving it to the place where the stock IC was sounds like the best idea. Anyone want to try it and let us know how it goes and how they did it?

Gary57 wrote:I think you are missing the point Phinx, by having such a long pipe for the turbo to suck air through it needs to work that much harder creating hot air. i think if you have decent ventilation like Widow explained you would OK.

The piping wouldn't really be that much longer tho. Maybe half a meter, would that really make much difference. The filter is already pretty close to the place where the stock IC was.

I think 50cm will make a big difference, dont forget the extra bends hey.

You will see very light increase if any at all on turbo lag or drop-off. Also how much increased work are you putting on the turbo system with that piping can it be measured? I mean your cone filter when dirty might put a similar strain on your turbo? Also if you turbo is sucking under bonnet temp what is the power lose compared to ambient?

But now if you turbo was sucking hot of around 30c air your Intercooler efficacy will drop rapidly so will you detonation threshold and you EGT will increase along with Oil temp and water temp.

Also ducting air will not really work unless the cone is in a contained unit where NO hot air can get to it at all; Also RAM air duct has been proved to be a myth in that the speed required and the opening need are unviable for road cars

My 2 Zim cents

Yes I know intercooler efficencies drop off, bla bla bla We have all heard it before .

I can monitor my IAT, EGT, knock, AFR, etc and in traffic I get IAT of about 60 degrees yes that is a shit load.

By sucking air 10 degrees cooler and then moving them through a pipe that is 30 degrees hotter is kinda pointless. The air you suck regardless of where is it coming from is cooler than the hot pipe so that air is still getting heated up, maybe not to the same extent but they will be close. When on the freeway IAT are ambiant, normally lower because of the water/meth. AFR stay constant, well almost (good tuning ) and EGT stay the same I dont care how hot the day is or how cold it is the are always around 750 degree on the freeway.

Those intake air ducts do work, I can feel a difference in power since I removed mine, not a huge difference but there is a difference.

Wrap your piping.

Also What is the trasfer rate campared to sucking in hot air?

Wrapping your piping is the answer but it just looks kak hey. I have been thinking about it but I dont think I will be happy with how it looks.

Air is a perfect transfer source, especially when you flowing alot of it.

What about ceramic coating the boost pipes? Maybe this is an expensive exercise - if they can do it with exhaust housings, pistons etc. surely boostpipes will also benefit. Also why not use those CDA or BMC sealed intake systems. Calibrator used to talk about those things alot... Wonder where he is to back me up on this one...

Who is using CDA or BMC induction kits on the forum - trick is that the filter is not exposed and protected by Carbon fibre surround and it has a induction getting air from a cold source...

I also think putting the filter too low will cause problems - water as mentioned.

Gary sounds like you have a lot of gadgets under the hood to tell you all these fancy things. What size radiator are you running by the way?

And I also agree with Gary regarding breathing through a straw... unless the pipe is tapered, which will waste a lot of space...
Will get hot quicker and also be very restrictive...

At low rpm's might see the benefit, of cooler air, but will definitely loose power at higher rpm's unless the pipe diameter is matched to the demand for air. Else air molecules friction and speed will just cause higher intake temp.

I think try the CDA route - does anyone have contact with Calibrator still - he promised gains of 10kw-20kw extra power ATW just by using this filter. Cost approx R1400 last time I checked

Me and Qwerty both have BMC CDA filters, not sure if it would give that much power, its a filter you know

I do like the fact that it is a cone filter in a sealed enclosure.
Mine gets air from where the old intercooler was, seeing as there is nothing in there any more.

Autostyle sell them for R1800
about how much I paid for mine from Duane

Speed breeder wrote:he promised gains of 10kw-20kw extra power ATW just by using this filter.

thats a tall order for a filter!

its also just what i need to get my drifting right.

any numbers (dyno charts) to back this up from the calibrator customers???