. Without doubt they are skilled experts in the world of turbos. Dick has made an excellent job. There is nothing about this SX700S that is standard. Top Class Dick! 1000 cheers!
Shogun, +700bhp ca18det
Moderators: P3g4sus, Daniel, rat, Draco, Riekert
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shogun
- 0.1 Bar Boost
- Posts: 141
- Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 1:22 am
- Car: S13
- Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
[QUOTE=Teggers;5036067]Mmmm :smitten: pretty turbo... (I'm such a magpie!!) But whats the purple stuff on the inlet flange?[/QUOTE]
Since the ca18det is such a small engine and the turbo is LARGE, it is necessary to do something to improve the useable rpm-area of the ca.
It is not so visible on the outside, more on the inside.
Exhaust side:
a. The inside of the housing has been ported and polished to speed up the exhaust flow.
b. The inside has purple ceramic coating to keep temperature on the right side. Spool up much faster.
c. The heat shield between the turbine and the bearing housing has been ceramic coated to reduce heat transfer.
d. The vings of the turbine has been optimized for improved efficiency and durability.
e. The outlet has been opened up (cone shaped) to improve the exhaust gas flow.
f. The outside of the housing has been ceramic coated to reduce heat transfer to the under bonnet area and to keep up the internal exhaust gas speed
Compressor side:
a. Internally ported and polished air intake mouth to improve flow.
b. Turbine wheel is a CNC-machined ving shape, highly efficient, lightweight and very rare version.
c. Turbine wheel has sharp vings (attack angle) to "cut" the air very easy, less air resistance
d. Cone shaped outlet to give a smooth interface to the FMIC tubing
e. Lots of other things I do not know since they want to keep them secret "know how"
Shaft:
a. Strong, light weight and has some kind of special hydrodynamic oil bearings to manage the power
As a result the over all efficiency has improved massively.
Since the ca18det is such a small engine and the turbo is LARGE, it is necessary to do something to improve the useable rpm-area of the ca.
It is not so visible on the outside, more on the inside.
Exhaust side:
a. The inside of the housing has been ported and polished to speed up the exhaust flow.
b. The inside has purple ceramic coating to keep temperature on the right side. Spool up much faster.
c. The heat shield between the turbine and the bearing housing has been ceramic coated to reduce heat transfer.
d. The vings of the turbine has been optimized for improved efficiency and durability.
e. The outlet has been opened up (cone shaped) to improve the exhaust gas flow.
f. The outside of the housing has been ceramic coated to reduce heat transfer to the under bonnet area and to keep up the internal exhaust gas speed
Compressor side:
a. Internally ported and polished air intake mouth to improve flow.
b. Turbine wheel is a CNC-machined ving shape, highly efficient, lightweight and very rare version.
c. Turbine wheel has sharp vings (attack angle) to "cut" the air very easy, less air resistance
d. Cone shaped outlet to give a smooth interface to the FMIC tubing
e. Lots of other things I do not know since they want to keep them secret "know how"
Shaft:
a. Strong, light weight and has some kind of special hydrodynamic oil bearings to manage the power
As a result the over all efficiency has improved massively.
-
shogun
- 0.1 Bar Boost
- Posts: 141
- Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 1:22 am
- Car: S13
- Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
This is how to change the wheel studs to longer ones (not my car on some pictures)
Remove the wheels
Remove the bolts on the backside of the brake caliper (socket 17) and hang it up with a bit of wire.
Remove the center cover on the wheel hub with a flat screwdriver.
Remove the lock pin (replace with a new one)
Use a pair of flat pliers, squeeze the legs together and press out the pin
Remove the centre nut (socket 32). The wheel hub will start rotating, use a long bar or equal between the floor and the wheel studs to hold the wheel hub in place.
When the nut is removed, take out the washer placed behind it and pull off the wheel hub
Press the old studs out. If you dont have a wise or equal, you can hammer them out.
Please try to avoid using to much force when smacking them out, every blow will make small dimples inside the bearings. If you use a small sledge hammer One firm blow is better than multiple smaller ones. Support from behind is good to save the bearings.
Place the new longer studs in correct position (splines). Carefully knock them in a bit. Important that the splines are correctly alligned. Use a larger socket and a wheel nut and tighten till the stud is firmly seated towards the back of the hub..
Clean all surfaces and put new grease on the bearing surfaces. If you plan to use larger brake discs in the future, it is a good idea to remove the splash guard behinf the brake disc before you remount the disc.
Remount the washer, nut and locking pin. Assemble brake disc and spacer.
Remount the brake caliper
Mount the wheels and enjoy the wider stance
This is the result on my car (no spacers mounted yet and Camber not adjusted). This is also before the wider fenders are mounted.
I use a 5-stud wheel hub with pin studs. Make life much easier
Longer studs
Front
Rear
Remove the wheels
Remove the bolts on the backside of the brake caliper (socket 17) and hang it up with a bit of wire.
Remove the center cover on the wheel hub with a flat screwdriver.
Remove the lock pin (replace with a new one)
Use a pair of flat pliers, squeeze the legs together and press out the pin
Remove the centre nut (socket 32). The wheel hub will start rotating, use a long bar or equal between the floor and the wheel studs to hold the wheel hub in place.
When the nut is removed, take out the washer placed behind it and pull off the wheel hub
Press the old studs out. If you dont have a wise or equal, you can hammer them out.
Please try to avoid using to much force when smacking them out, every blow will make small dimples inside the bearings. If you use a small sledge hammer One firm blow is better than multiple smaller ones. Support from behind is good to save the bearings.
Place the new longer studs in correct position (splines). Carefully knock them in a bit. Important that the splines are correctly alligned. Use a larger socket and a wheel nut and tighten till the stud is firmly seated towards the back of the hub..
Clean all surfaces and put new grease on the bearing surfaces. If you plan to use larger brake discs in the future, it is a good idea to remove the splash guard behinf the brake disc before you remount the disc.
Remount the washer, nut and locking pin. Assemble brake disc and spacer.
Remount the brake caliper
Mount the wheels and enjoy the wider stance
This is the result on my car (no spacers mounted yet and Camber not adjusted). This is also before the wider fenders are mounted.
I use a 5-stud wheel hub with pin studs. Make life much easier
Longer studs
Front
Rear
-
shogun
- 0.1 Bar Boost
- Posts: 141
- Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 1:22 am
- Car: S13
- Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
I do not want to mess around with lots of hard to reach screws and nuts so I looked around to find a good solution.
Thanks to Creatix I managed to lay my hands on a bunch of really good Stainless Steel V-band clamps and flanges. They make life so much easier eliminating the hassle with aligning bolted flanges. Easy to mount and dismantle.
I will use them on the exhaust system, the down pipe, the front pipe, the two wastegates and on the turbon
Thanks to Creatix I managed to lay my hands on a bunch of really good Stainless Steel V-band clamps and flanges. They make life so much easier eliminating the hassle with aligning bolted flanges. Easy to mount and dismantle.
I will use them on the exhaust system, the down pipe, the front pipe, the two wastegates and on the turbon
