Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

poizen wrote:yip

227.5 BHP

and 272nm on the wheels it feels awesome

I don't understand what all the fuss is about . BHP is measured at the engine, but that could just be a spelling mistake

Stock injectors should easily support that, and if its infact wheel power then its safe to assume its around 260-270BHP which is probably near the very limit of the injectors but I wouldnt exactly call it unsafe to run. Plus the man says the AFR's are good.

Either way, well done poizen. Your car is coming along nicely! and will only get better im sure.

Plus if you blow up the engine then you have an excuse to build a stronger one

Oh and can we get some clarification to what the answer is to the original question of this thread please?

There were two questions...of which one was answered as far as I can see

ok dont even worrie with idle control my car idles fine without it doesnt drop or anything

use the opel blue sensor it fits perfect in stock position and you will need a injector plug to connect to it

next is coils if you going thru the std loom connect pin 1 and 11 to ignition output1 then group pin 2 and 3 to output number 2

next run brown 1 to injectors 1 and 4 and brown 2 to injectors 2 and 3

and the injector positive to all 4 and then to the coils its a thick blue/red wire

next is fuel pump connect it to a black/yellow wire in you side sill driver side

for rev counter connect the blue/black wire to the yellow red that goes up into the dash by the std ecu cant miss it

to wire up the cas dicktator wiring is wrong there 4 pins on the cas
pin A-ground-black wire

pinB-12volt dont put less than 9volts here its a thick black/white wire- connect the red white wire here but make sure it has more than 9volts comming thru if not use 12volt ignition directly to it

pinC-home signal its greed/black connect the white wire here

pin D-trigger its green/yellow wire connect the green whire there


hope i said anything if not ask ill tell you

i bought 550cc injectors which turned out to be 950 cc so didnt end up using them although i should of but once they sold ill get 550cc and retune

Yeah 550's would be perfect

Very nice bud.. Now you can do mine for me

I need urgent help, Anyone?

I have a wasted spark setup on my std CA18DET(Std injectors, turbo, pump etc. . . ). The management is fully set up but i need a starter map so i can get it to the tuner. i got the car mapped to start but its not going anywhere. I need to know whats the fuel pressure reading from the pump even if im not lucky enough to get a map or if sum1 can give me sum direction on the approximate values the map should be set to.
The car starts, it reves up to round about 2000 and then chokes . . . . HELP

Fuel pressure should be at least 3,6 bar on idle.

Charlvdw wrote:Fuel pressure should be at least 3,6 bar on idle.

with or without vaccuum mine is set to 3bar withot vac and 2.4 with vac on

poizen wrote: next run brown 1 to injectors 1 and 4 and brown 2 to injectors 2 and 3

and the injector positive to all 4 and then to the coils its a thick blue/red wire

Poizen, the dicktator install guide sais to put 1 X Brown wire, Pin 20 onto injector 1 & 2 and then the other brown wire, pin 19 onto injectors 3 & 4, can you please explain why alot of people do it the way you explained? This is somthing that confuses me and need to make sure mine is done correctly.

Currently I have mine settup like Dicktator manual indicated. Does it make a diffirence? and how will it affect performance?

it doesnt really make a diff i dont think because its bached fueled so even when the port closed it fills it with fuel waiting for it to be opend

the reason i did it 1 and 3 was becuse thats how my coils were and my tuner told me its better

i think chris just made a basic diagram

but to me makes sense to fuel the injector with the coil that fires

Hmmm, sounds interesting, I think I will do some more research on this subject.... See if we can get any scientific backing to this all....