Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

I might be wrong but there isn't much one can "tune" these cars with... So I'm not sure what a Dyno Tune will help with... Other than setting the perfect timing.

Vlade, goodness now I am totally lost. Big statement here that I truly dont follow.

ChemCool wrote:

I might be wrong but there isn't much one can "tune" these cars with... So I'm not sure what a Dyno Tune will help with... Other than setting the perfect timing.

Vlade, goodness now I am totally lost. Big statement here that I truly dont follow.

most of the bits on the sx engine that control the way engine runs, are controlled by the computer. sensors are not adjustable for the most part, obviously excluding the biggies like the TPS. even the idle control is supposed to be adjusted when NOT connected to the computer.

base timing is set, fuel pressure is set, injector and spark timing is controlled by the computer, you can slightly adjust the mixture if you "dig" open a little screw on the AFM, but thats supposed to be factory set and sealed too!!!!

thats what he means i think!!!!

twitchy finger

There is a very simple way to tune those cars on the dyno.
Its called a piggyback take your pick Unichip or SMT6.
With someone who gives a damn tuning them they work very well.

R2500 fitted and tuned seems to be the going rate.

Unichip

Duane, I will soon approach you on tuning the sx. Thanks.

seem to recall another thread that mentioned that the smt6 would not fit??? if it can then it may be an option.

found some strange little quirks on my engine this afternoon.

1. the throttle position sensor will advance the timing about 20 degrees when it is unplugged - this happens at idle. if your car is at 15 degrees, then it will jump to 35 degrees advanced??? WTF???

2. there is a method to set the CO levels/mixture ratio controlled by the AFM in the manual specific to cars w/out the cat and w/out a CO tester. tried this because i'm sure mine was incorrect.

3. because my AAC valves and associated thingies weren't working, these were removed and idling is now set mechanically.

4. timing was set according to the manual, which had pictures similar to those posted on this thread earlier. my CAS is still on the retarded side of the middle of the range of motion, but according to the timing light its set at 13 degrees BTC. I HOPE THIS DOES NOT MEAN I AM A TOOTH OUT ON THE CRANK PULLEY - but what would the symptoms of this be??? cos the car is fine for the most part.

ALSO - at the track on friday night, the car misfired a bit at the end of the rev range in second when 3rd gear was about to be engaged. the audience told me that blue flames shot out of the exhaust at the rear of the car. is this bad?

Sorta the reason why I went standalone...

My old management will work fine one day the next there was all sort of issues, check the ECU it would say its fine... Then wham it run fine again... My timing was always all over the place couldn't figure out why.

I'd say try double checking everything, like timing belt and so... I know the FICT valve (one for aircon) can fuck one around with the idling, previously before my standalone my plug would fall out, during a drive, then at the robots bam car won't idle.

Flames are cool On my old ECU, my car would throw a huge flame during high rev gear shifts, it was a huge orange flash every time I shifted on top revs... freaking cool But the car was over fueling a hell of a lot. I can remember dicing a Supercharged Yellow M3 from RGM (I wasn't much of a challenge) but the guy really liked my car's sound and the flames during our little 200km/h run from PTA to JHB.

Vlade wrote:Sorta the reason why I went standalone...

can fuck one around

thats almost where i am at, at the moment. i'm tired of being fucked around!!! i figured if i went through everything then it would be ok, but compared to other guys cars, my CAS visually looks retarded. and other guys seem to have more power!

i checked everything yesterday that has to do with mixtures, timing and idling, and all i can think of is that maybe i got a tooth out on the crank pulley.

but i'm really not "luss" to go messing around down there. maybe later!!!

This one is also a previous thread under timing or so. ip, the same happend with me. Adjust the timing according to maqnuel to the book. You set it now, you check it later, it is different. Somebody said the ecu is not self learning etc, etc. Still up to date I dont know how to take charge of setting the timing, because of the above. Last time my timing was set by the tuner and end of story.

As far as I'm aware our range of ECU's don't have a learning capability. It's got a straight binary table that it looks values up, and then a huge number of input variables that affect the output.

i'm not saying that its changing when i check at different times.

but it is changing depending on the idle switch. if the idle switch is closed then timing looks normal. if you unplug the idle switch or open the ciruit, then the timing jumps up 20 degrees - right in front of my eyes and the timing light. EVERY TIME!?!?!?!

so my base timing is 15 degrees BTC, then as soon as i put my foot on the accelerator the TPS switch is off its idle position and the timing jumps up by 20 degrees - to 35 degrees BTC.

that doesn't sound right to me?