Might as well open up a shop and then call it "The Fixillator" *wink* *wink*
Huh
If you put the 2 side by side and do the swaps the "proper" way (i.e. the ideal way you would want it done in your car gary, not for a client) then the RB will cost more, no doubt about it.
When you start talking about bringing costs down by re-using parts then all estimates go out the window.
If it were going into my car I still wouldnt blindly change oil pump and water pump... I would open the motor and give it new bearings and rings, check pistons and bores etc.
But yeah I give up you guys are right it will cost more than I think... rat start saving cause this one is going to go over budget...
DriftZ: "I swear if a CA18 beats my SR im getting a RB!"
I agree with you, no harm in inspecting before replacing.
You "can" just drop it in and hope for the best, but then buy 2 of them to be able to replace if it fails
What I was saying is copare apples with apples, you cant compare a very good CA20 build to a RB "drop in" and then say the RB is the same cost. They arent the same thing. Yes, the RB will yield more power, but the CA would have been built properly.
That being said, I still say its better VALUE FOR MONEY going RB instead of a CA20 no matter what the level of the build is.
I agree with you, no harm in inspecting before replacing.
You "can" just drop it in and hope for the best, but then buy 2 of them to be able to replace if it fails
The motor comes with a start up gaurentee so if it knocks and smokes it will be replaced, only cost will be labour to remove and replace.
What I was saying is copare apples with apples, you cant compare a very good CA20 build to a RB "drop in" and then say the RB is the same cost. They arent the same thing. Yes, the RB will yield more power, but the CA would have been built properly.
You can compare a RB drop in to a CA20 build. I think I can drop a RB25 into a S13 chassis for the same money as it would cost to buy and build a CA20.
DriftZ: "I swear if a CA18 beats my SR im getting a RB!"
