Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

why you didnt do anything with the turbo?

Cool Chem

johansx wrote:

Hennie Marais wrote:do they use a ambient correction on their dyno printout.

Maus is a high profile tuner, doing work for Nissan Motorsport etc. Their dyno should be the best, reliable etc. etc.... It was raining the morning during the dyno. Doubt that the ambient correction will affect more than a few %. Even at 5%, we are talking like 6-7 kw. If it was 140kw plus, I would have been happy. The car also feels the same as before (Unichip+xhaurts) on my butt dyno.

Way to go guys.

I know they are, but you are comparing it to calibrators tune's and he uses a correction factor, I just want to compare the 2, theirs might be way lower that his, go check the graphs he posted earlier in the year.

Another answer form a guy running a high power S15.

My theory is that with a good 3" exhaust and decent chip tuning (even
though the s14 ECU is inferior to the s15's) you should be talking
around 140kW to the wheels or more. Slightly more if you have an intake
upgrade. Something sounds wrong with a 119kW power output... Does the
exhaust go right up to the turbo, or is it a cat back exhaust. On turbo
cars, get the exhaust wrong, then it doesn't matter what else you do to
the car...

On my s15 my first mod was a CES turbo-back system. They claim a 44kW
increase just by fitting the exhaust... My seat-of-the-pants kinda
confirms that, from my test drive immediately after I fitted the exhaust
system. With 1 Bar boost, K&N filter, FMIC with 2.5" in and out and
Chiptorque chip tuning the car got >180kW to the wheels - the MAF and
the injectors are maxed out according to my tuner.

the 200kW limit Jeff talks about is a ballpark figure depending on the
specific car (differences in drive train losses, etc) and the
differences in dyno and dyno operator. You can get more power to the
wheels (but not more engine power output) by reducing losses such as
lightening flywheel and pulleys, removing wyndage losses, etc etc - but
these are not cheap options.

Flowing the head by extrude honing or similar is a good idea, but isn't
really a factor unless you've done everything else...

The FMIC pipe sizes look about right for a non-drag-car, as throttle
response will be retained... The in-pipe may be slightly small, but
will be better than stock...

The throttle body will make just about zero difference, unless your
flow is huge, and without going massive boost that won't be a factor
IMHO.

So to try to answer your questions...

Q: What is the maximum power achievable with this setup, up from the
119 rwkw upgrade?

A: To quantify this, I need to qualify my answer. You should be able
to get around 180kW (conservative) to the wheels with decent FMIC,
exhaust, chiptuning with increased boost. I note you have no
aftermarket boost controller listed in your mods, so you are probably
running near stock boost (with those mods that's probably around 0.6-0.7
Bar)

Q: What is the max and reliable boost the std turbo can handle?

A: Don't go beyond 0.8 Bar without tuning, or 1.0 Bar with tuning
(reliability is the key word in that question)

Q: What is the next thing I can do to get the biggest bang for the
buck?

A: Boost controller - say a GFB Atomic... That's what I use...

I hope this helps.

MikeG.

I agree there is something up...

Look I know you really cant compare but I did 140 rwkw with an exhaust, turbo upgrade (see garage) exhaust manifold , IC , boost controller and 0,5 bar boost and I'm a 1.8.

: Boost controller - say a GFB Atomic... That's what I use...

There you are. I also said that

The throttle body will make just about zero difference, unless your
flow is huge, and without going massive boost that won't be a factor

And I basically said that as well.

Chem

ChemCool wrote:

The throttle body will make just about zero difference, unless your
flow is huge, and without going massive boost that won't be a factor

And I basically said that as well.

Chem

Remember the plan... step by step.... get the basics right, so when you finally add the mother of all turbos etc etc.... you can run reliable... So the throttle body is all in the big scheme of things. Nothing is over done at this stage. In the end it must still be a drivable reliable car as it is now.

Spend an hour or 2 today going over everything. Checking pipes for possible leaks etc. Still looking for a tuner... Maybe phone Dastek on Monday to get a list of their capable dealers

list of their capable dealers

This will be handy. So we can know who can handle the unichip

Hooked up a small spring to the wastegate.....boost is now .75 bar max. My but dyno says ....... Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeehaaaaaaaaaaa

ps maybe it is time for a boost controller

From the http://www.dastek.co.za website...

It basically alters crank and load signals. The latest level can do boost control, water injection, nitrious injection with extra maps which are activated only once the water or nitrious becomes active. It can cut the nitrious at specified Rpm point as well as map the amount of water or nitrious versus RPM. It records the maximum RPM and boost for engine guarantee purposes and many other things. It can do launch control, drive extra injectors, accel enrichment, drive manifold flaps or cam solenoids and has many other functions.

My "other" contact says to use these guys in vd Hoff rd. :

Toyota Bakkie spares Pretoria west 012 3798790

Anybody heard of them? Apparently not everybody can tune the new Unichips.

All you need is more boost-the stuff you did will then start making a big difference

Andre still got a GTR ceramic T28...you know you want it!!!!

n1smo200sx wrote:All you need is more boost-the stuff you did will then start making a big difference

Yip, agreed, the problem is why must I do it if I paid somebody else big moola to do it ?

Maybe start another poll... each spring added = how much boost

I can up the boost to 1 bar again, but still need to put it on the dyne to make sure it does not lean out Will also keep an eye on the injector duty cycle.

n1smo200sx wrote:Andre still got a GTR ceramic T28...you know you want it!!!!

How much and what difference will it make? Surely it will spin up faster, but how will it compare above 6000rpm? The std T28 looses some power above 6000rpm.

Since I am very busy right now, I did not spend too much time with the car. Checked most of the clamps and replaced with stainless ones. The big clamps seem to stretch the rubber pipe a bit and makes a bubble under the bolt, the reason a replaced them all. Did almost 1000km since. Everything seems 100% from the built. Nothing came loose, not even a hose. I was a bit worried about the intake setup, but even that seems 100% ok. No loose hoses etc. Took it to 220km/h this morning, no heat issues even with aircon running at full blast. Seems I am even going to get about 400km on this tank considering my average speed of around 160 to Middelburg and back yesterday.

Idle is smooth, even with aircon and headlights on. With the old Unichip it would have stalled

I think it is time for a boost controller.... 1 BAR !!!

FMIC actually makes less kw, cause the factory ECU is too clever to prevent engine from damage, need after market ECU to tune it.