Project F

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:00 am

I opened the front of engine to access timing belt. Also removed exh camshaft to replace by old engine just to have the little piepeitjie on the end of the camshaft where the CAS fits into. Existing cam pin broken and non existant.Need to get the other camshaft polished before refit.
Timing belt will be redone again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am after the timing, trying to establish source of current situation. Also water leak to be rectified.

Chem

no rather Chem

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 3:54 pm

Jandre, my # 2 assisting by removing torn engine mount rubber.

Brand new, but sx still running badly

At least something is overhauled and working:

Oil sensor relocated

A turbo heatsheild scored from Toby

Short shifter fitted

Clean your 16 year old radiators

16 years residue, from the radiator, blown against the wall, after a good clean with a compressor. Sies Freddie

Chem

Brand new engin mount rubber, just the right thing for Sannie

Draco · Post by **Draco** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 3:58 pm

Brand new engin mount rubber, just the right thing for Sannie

veecee · Post by **veecee** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 4:20 pm

hey chemcool

the broken exhaust cam pin could've been the reason your car was running crap - specially if the CAS was positioned incorrectly!!!

another thing - where did you get that engine mount. i might need one or two for the car i'm putting together!!!???!!!

and i have something you may be interested in too!!!

widowmaker · Post by **widowmaker** » Thu Oct 25, 2007 5:11 pm

veecee wrote:!!!???!!!
and i have something you may be interested in too!!!

Vlade · Post by **Vlade** » Fri Oct 26, 2007 6:51 am

Yeah put some details up from that engine mount, I see one poor sob is gonna go buy a bakkie load for the forum.

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Fri Oct 26, 2007 11:19 am

The engine mount is from a place in Pretoria called Suspension Parts. They are located in Vom Hagen street. Pta West. Number somewhere on my desk??? And jeeshhh those guys are really helpful.

Chem

veecee · Post by **veecee** » Fri Oct 26, 2007 5:19 pm

how about more detail???

like contact details, cost, is it a direct replacement????

i could really use two of those mounts, and a transmission mount too!!!

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Sat Oct 27, 2007 10:38 pm

My JOURNAL for today:
The bonnet is fitted and closed. The water leak disappeared like miss before the sun. No oil leaks so far.
The engine is still crappy. Still choked (running with a miss, not easy accelerating etc.)
I have driven the car for about 20 km today. When decelerating the engine just vrek. Not idling,
Behind the very noisy hydraulic lifters there is a sound similar like before I removed the old engine (like small end or bearing or what ever. Happens close to 3000 revs.
I am supposed to be worried about that sound, but somehow I don’t. I think it is more important to get the engine running smoothly. I may be wrong in this way of thinking.
Today I have done tests on the s13 like never before. All the modes possible on the ecu been tried, and with no faulty led codes. Except the speed sensor not lighting up the green led in the ecu in mode IV, but the speed sensor test correct with multi meter according to manual. No electric /electronic sensor tests faulty. I am worried about the air regulator though.
I have even tried mode V on ecu self diagnosis – no faults!
I still think that I don’t know how the adjustable FPR needs to operate or if it is working properly.
BTW not even the knock sensor is faulty.
I can tell more what have been done like replacement of injectors and CAS etc. But enough now.
I am not giving up. Need to sleep more on this problem.
Spark is there, fuel is there and air worries me and I don’t know how.
Some how I can say been there, done that got the t Shirt, but still not 100% there.
Boost is turned down, water meth not connected yet.
Oh yes and I suspect the unichip too?? Don’t know, just another possibility. May be take it to Maus and ask to connect up the laptop.
For the first time I understand how the pressure regulators operate and how to test the bloody thing.
Even found a simple way to test injectors!!
Harnas voltages all fine going to sensors like 12 V and earth.
The garage is cleaned up.
The paint work is full of oil marks. Nice! Have blown about 5 x globes in lead light during the week end.
Thanks Adam for trying to assist me over the phone. We met Adam at Zwartkop recently.
The idling screw is not making a difference?? The engine starts easily, and that is it.
How long does it take for the hydraulic lifters to settle down?
Remember I reported on the forum a day before I removed the old engine that the engine started to run crappy and don’t want to idle. Somehow I think the problem persists??

Speed breeder · Post by **Speed breeder** » Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:11 pm

One thing I have done is replace lifters.New/dry ones should settle down within minutes after startup. Is still noisy for a while and should be completely quiet after your 20km drive.

I know everyones gonna ask anyway, so here goes, I got from Autozone, sure Midas will also have - R30 a lifter. This was a year ago though.

Car dies down when you tap down- Idle control valve working? - can't u bypass?

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:47 pm

Idle control valve working? - can't u bypass?

Is that the A,A,C?

I have done the timing belt twice. Redone the whole lot again. All marks set up ant TDC and # 1 piston up etc. With timing light timing looks way advanced to me. Movement of CAS slight difference: either engine dies or just so that i can keep the engine running with the throttle pressed in frequency.

Vlade · Post by **Vlade** » Sun Oct 28, 2007 10:49 am

ChemCool wrote:
Idle control valve working? - can't u bypass?
Is that the A,A,C?

Yes...

My guess the sensor works but the signal to the sensor is not lekka

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Mon Oct 29, 2007 10:31 pm

My guess the sensor works but the signal to the sensor is not lekka

Vlade, please call me on this one and explain, anything now must be tested and checked. Thanks Vlade.

Chem

Sokar · Post by **Sokar** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 3:25 am

Hi Freddy,

Sorry to hear you're having issues.

Did you manage to put and exhaust cam in that has the alignment pin for the CAS, ive seen if you dont have that pin you can be a whole tooth out on the cas and the car will still kinda run, but turning the cas will give the symptoms you described, dead one way and barely running all the other way.

Regarding the lifters, did you bleed them before they went in? the CA isnt like other cars, the lifters dont pump up with oil much, they need to be bled before going in (Basically you put them in a tub of oil and squish them until you dont see any more bubbles and leave them in the oil until you're ready to install)

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Tue Oct 30, 2007 7:57 am

Sorry to hear you're having issues.

Did you manage to put and exhaust cam in that has the alignment pin for the CAS, ive seen if you dont have that pin you can be a whole tooth out on the cas and the car will still kinda run, but turning the cas will give the symptoms you described, dead one way and barely running all the other way.

Regarding the lifters, did you bleed them before they went in? the CA isnt like other cars, the lifters dont pump up with oil much, they need to be bled before going in (Basically you put them in a tub of oil and squish them until you dont see any more bubbles and leave them in the oil until you're ready to install)

Sokar, thanks for helping.

At first, yes the cam is replaced with the alignment pin. You describe the problem with cas and timing on the spot, but yes the cas is now aligned.

Secondly, the lifters were defenitely prepared like you said. But since fitting them it took some weeks before the start of the engine. Do you think the oil drained again and have to soak up the oil again?

Chem