Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

Moved to tech

I am having the same problem but think mine is the injectors. One plug showed very rich and that injector had a broken cap and pin

Maybe we should start working on a CA18Det, SR20, RB troubleshooting guide abducted naked it a sticky.

Do it.

predictive text fail. will edit it when I put my computer on.

Drillergy wrote:Maybe we should start working on a CA18Det, SR20, RB troubleshooting guide abducted naked it a sticky.

+1

So I checked the spark plugs again today.. all perfect.. got a new fuel pump.. took injectors out and no problem there. Maybe I should just go back to vtec...

I dont agree with your logic, even a v-tec can give you problems,.....Like i said it might be your Air fuel meter. Another reason for it to be heavy on the fuel is the "Fluid temp sensor" which might not be working lekker. Some people actually swap 2 plugs around on the intake which can also damage the sensor and the ecu. (But under normal function it should give you the error code) Also try running the car on modde 5, which is real time diagnostics. Losen the ecu and hang the ecu so that you can see if the little red and green light is giving you any signals while driving or under WOT.

These 2 items regulate the airflow and fueling esspecially in the areas where you are experiencing the problem, this can also cause the car to go into limp mode.

What plugs are you running exactly? (This can have a big difference)...also where is your timing set, and have you worked on the car? is the cam timing correct, even Nissan mechanics put the timing wrong on hte CA motors.

I know you checked everything, but you are missing something. 9 times out of ten it is something simple and small.

+1 draco is right you cant have checked everything and and still have a problem. If you sure its all right then its time to replace stuff start with engine coolant temp sensor then move to maf

these are the most basic motors/setups so starts with the basics(you may have done some of these already just posting for future ref)

-change air filter

-spark plugs change them Bcpr7es iirc

-check coil packs ( cracks and ohms, even the little carbon rod)

-fuel pressure ( 3 bar vac line off- 2.4bar vac line on)

-fuel pump replace or change both filters

-2 pin coolant sensor ( replace with echlin part they have them at midis for R160+-)

-maf ( strip it carefully- get some electrokleen {spelling might be off} and spray the s*** out of the housing and carefully on the 2 electrodes )

- timing ( make sure you set to 15deg btdc) use a simple light not the super advanced units but make sure you put a plug lead between the coil pack and plug that will give best readings

-boost leaks ( check and check and check until you end up in a mental home because one small leak will make you tear your hair out check all vac lines bov and boost pipes even intercooler just never stop checking

-check ecu for error codes make sure its happy

- if all else fails DONT BOOST _______BooSTING is expensive but we love it so we pay for it SIMPLE

- i will add if i think of anything else

but best advice is dont lose HOPE
i had my first sx that i almost went bald on with little problems i was ready to give up then i just went thru stage by stage. just hang in there it will be puring like a sweet little kitty soon

thanks for all feedback guys. back to the drawing board tomorrow. hope i get this sorted. one thing that made me crazy. car idles for about 7min with a few revs in between and you can notice the fuel gauge drop!! insane!

it can't be the coolant sensor as voltage drops to spec as the car heats up. same goes for the air flow meter.. i have no code errors. gonna run it in mode5 and check the ecu.. one small problem that i have. crank pulley is chipped on the timing marks!!

did you ever come right buddy?

okay pulley got sorted. 15 degrees btdc. Did a pressure test, 1.95bar at idle. Manual says its right. Took the plugs out, black and fulllll of petrol on all of them.