Page 2 of 2
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:38 pm
by angelo
what radiater did you use when you started the rb25 for the first time?
normally there is a lot of junk that has to be flushed from the import enjines. If you used the new radaitor when flushing the engine, this could of get stuck in you new radiator.
my thoughts
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 6:18 pm
by Reyn S
angelo wrote:what radiater did you use when you started the rb25 for the first time?
normally there is a lot of junk that has to be flushed from the import enjines. If you used the new radaitor when flushing the engine, this could of get stuck in you new radiator.
my thoughts
I started it fith the CA18 radiator.
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 7:33 pm
by Speed breeder
Based on all the information, it sounds like you could have head gasket problems.
What happens to the oil temp (if you have a seperate gauge for it)?
Are you still running the stock oil cooler/water heater in SA really?
What about doing a bleed down test per cylinder? I know the theory and haven't done this exercise myself.
You need compression tester - just fitting that goes into spark plug hole
Compressor with tank
When engine is cold:
Remove radiator cap
Set piston 1 to its closed cycle (all valves closed)
Connect compression tester connector and line from compressor to cylinder via plug hole.
Open Compressor air pressure.
Theoretically there should be for bubbles in the water if there is a problem with the head gasket (don't know if the air will leak through the closed thermostat though or whether it may come through the bottom pipe/cold pipe)
hope this helps
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 8:23 pm
by Reyn S
I’m still running stock oil cooler.
I don’t know, I don’t have a oil temp gauge
T took the car to a radiator place and they tested my the water for exhaust gases but nothing.
Thanx man
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 11:37 pm
by Magic
Something that helped me alot when trying to solve these kinds of problems is fitting an aftermarket water temp gauge to the car , but mounting the temp sensor just as the water leaves the engine before it is cooled down ie. B4 going to the radiator .
One can see any differences very quickly and it's a faily accurate way of making sure its ok. It's also independant from your stock gaues etc and doesn't need any specific sensor to work . Just the one supplied with the gauge . Relatively cheap option for peace of mind .
Whe my fan comes on I can literally see the water temp drop by between 5-10 degrees.
my 4 c
Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 7:40 am
by Reyn S
I have two temp sensors one for the cluster and one for the dictator system and both show the same reading.
Thanx man.
Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:01 pm
by rat
Found this, might just be going over what everyone else said
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=262601
Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:45 pm
by Reyn S
Thanx man
I first have to fix my radiator it k@ked this weekend.