Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

Gary57 wrote:RB25 FTW!!!

Soon...

now this is what The Amazing Race shouldv been

There is no denying stock for stock and modified the RB25 is the better motor but its been done its like all the SR20,RB20,RB25 and 2Jz swaps there are hundreds.

I would love to see a CA20DET or FJ20 powered S13 that would be impressive but also I think it will cost a little less then half to make a CA20DET then it would to swap in a RB25 Correctly

I would love to see a CA20DET or FJ20 powered S13 that would be impressive but also I think it will cost a little less then half to make a CA20DET then it would to swap in a RB25 Correctly

I dont think so, I guestimate R25000 to fit a RB25 into a S13. to build a CA20 (well to my standards) will cost about the same...

I guestimate R25000

Including the motor? or Excluding?

Also I take it that’s with no new water pump,oil pump, Clutch, Timing belt, Timing belt pulleys, acc belts possibly not even dropping the sump to check the inside of the motor also running the stock radiator why is the standard of a swap lower then your rebuild standard?

But I hope you can prove me wrong keep the slips we can add up at the end but I cant see you keeping it under R25000 excluding the motor for an everyday,reliable 100-000km swap.

Also a CA20DET is still more unique then a RB25 Swap any day.

Excluding the motor...

If water pump, oil pump and clutch are fine what is the point of replacing them??

That is excluding FMIC, Rad, exhaust etc, you would need all of these for the CA20DET anyway so I omitted them from the price.

I do think I can keep it under R25k. The reliability comes down to foundation work and how it is looked after. If it were going into my car it would be opened and refreshed 100%, this would obviously be more than R25k though.

The actual install doesnt look to difficult at all, nothing to scare me off.

Yeah a CA20 may be more unique but it wont be faster. You will what make 300rwKw on the CA20 and that will be maxing the conrods. With a RB25 you just do bolt ons and you will have 350RwKw... Na RB for me thanks.

The reliability comes down to foundation work and how it is looked after

That’s why it needs a new water pump,Oil pump,Timming belt, Clutch.. Ect
Its easier to do it when the motor is out of the car.

The actual install doesnt look to difficult at all, nothing to scare me off

Every guy in the states I have spoken to say the actual install is very very easy it’s the work involved in the back end where the costs come in. Also are you going to use a R33 X member or custom Top-hat type mounts?

Yeah a CA20 may be more unique but it wont be faster. You will what make 300rwKw on the CA20 and that will be maxing the conrods. With a RB25 you just do bolt ons and you will have 350RwKw... Na RB for me thanks.

My Quote " There is no denying stock for stock and modified the RB25 is the better motor but its been done its like all the SR20,RB20,RB25 and 2Jz swaps there are hundreds. "

I still think it can be built allot cheaper then a RB swap and its still very unique


But overall like I said in Rats thread when he bought the motor please keep the forum updated with the prices.

Every guy in the states I have spoken to say the actual install is very very easy it’s the work involved in the back end where the costs come in. Also are you going to use a R33 X member or custom Top-hat type mounts?

Skyline R31 cross member apparently fits.

I still think it can be built allot cheaper then a RB swap and its still very unique

Rods, pistons, etc will cost nearly R15k and that isnt even including the engineering to fit pulleys etc.

But overall like I said in Rats thread when he bought the motor please keep the forum updated with the prices.

Rat can let you guys know about the prices if he wants...

Rods, pistons, etc will cost nearly R15k and that isnt even including the engineering to fit pulleys etc

I don’t agree, but then I never do, you don’t need to machine the crank just the pulley

So let’s get this right you will need;

CA18DET engine - Came with the car
CA20E engine - R5000 (Should be alot cheaper)
4G63 Conroads - R4000 (Should be alot cheaper)
B20 with 1.6 VTec Head pistons- R 5000
Engineering and gaskets,Oilpump,Water pumps..ect - R 6000 (Should be alot cheaper)

TOTAL: R20000

Engine and Box - R12000 average
To swap in - Estimated R 25000

Total: R37000

A little over half the cost plus the motor is clean and fresh and very unique.

What you forgot in those sums is the labour cost, I am charging Rat for labour to do his install. So you must add what R7000 to get it built, R1000 for install. Also R4000 for rods is a bit cheap dont you think?? R6000 for gaskets, pumps, etc is also a bit cheap because a steel HG is what R1500, engineering to mod the block and stuff R2000 should cover it, new cam belt and tensioners.

I rate they would end up cost very similar but with the RB25 making more power.

Sorry but to me the CA20 is a botch job, little bit of this and some more of that is no good in my books, sounds like a curry recipe...

I think we have gone off the beaten track here with this thread but heres the facts you haven’t really posted much in the way of proof regarding that a CA20DET will cost the same as a RB swap so here is the run down a CA20DET no matter how you cut will be cheaper then a RB swap and even more so if you refresh the RB like you should you also cant prove you can swap that RB in for your set price as you have never done it and a CA20DET will be more unique but is sure will not have the power of a RB.

As for the botch job remark you’re the guy installing a motor with unknown KM’s and no history not refreshing the oil or water pump,Clutch, Pulley ..Ect or checking the crank collar hoping it will work for many thousands KM, Also On a X meber your not to sure about with the stock CA18 radiator that’s a botch job.

As for the botch job remark you’re the guy installing a motor with unknown KM’s and no history not refreshing the oil or water pump,Clutch, Pulley ..Ect or checking the crank collar hoping it will work for many thousands KM, Also On a X meber your not to sure about with the stock CA18 radiator that’s a botch job.

I never said this is the way I would want to do it but the way the customer has asked for it to be done. If we start the car and it has a bearing knock it isnt my issue (although it does have a start up gaurentee). When I install this RB25 we will know what it costs, I still think I could do it for R25000 including rad, tune etc.

Gary57 wrote:

As for the botch job remark you’re the guy installing a motor with unknown KM’s and no history not refreshing the oil or water pump,Clutch, Pulley ..Ect or checking the crank collar hoping it will work for many thousands KM, Also On a X meber your not to sure about with the stock CA18 radiator that’s a botch job.

I never said this is the way I would want to do it but the way the customer has asked for it to be done. If we start the car and it has a bearing knock it isnt my issue (although it does have a start up gaurentee). When I install this RB25 we will know what it costs, I still think I could do it for R25000 including rad, tune etc.

R25k max is what i also thought it will cost me in total if i do it myself.

Well, I think we should leave it there...

Only time will tell what the costs will be once the swap has been done and the condition of the motor there after

Gary57 wrote:I never said this is the way I would want to do it but the way the customer has asked for it to be done. If we start the car and it has a bearing knock it isnt my issue

Might as well open up a shop and then call it "The Fixillator" *wink* *wink*

You guys arent comparing apples with apples.

If you put the 2 side by side and do the swaps the "proper" way (i.e. the ideal way you would want it done in your car gary, not for a client) then the RB will cost more, no doubt about it.

When you start talking about bringing costs down by re-using parts then all estimates go out the window.