Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

The GT2860 is what I would use on that motor at sea level. AS for ball bearing reliability with the correct oil feed and quality they will outlast a journal bearing turbo considerably as there is no side thrust.

Ripped 200sx what intercooler and plumbing are you running,is your car standard besides the turbo?

ripped200sx wrote:just finished installing a gt28rs on my s13.did a lot of justifying on y spending R8500 on a gt2860rs was the right thing to do.after about a month i realised, finacialy it wasnt a good choice. then went out and bought it. bolted it all in but running as expected.boost comes in at around 4500rpm.only 0.5 bar.my first turbo swop so im sure i stuffed up somewhere.if anyones got any ideas why boosts comeing in so late let me know.ill keep u guys posted if it was worth it or not.

hiya... are you doing any sort of boost control? or do you just have a vacuum pipe plumbed directly onto your WG actuator? Cuz that would cause what you are seeing...

I start making positive pressure by 2k rpm and will prolly have full bore by like 4k. Your turbo is quite a bit smaller so i don't think it should spool so late.

My advice would be to get a elec boost controller. That way you can set it so it keeps the wastegate completely (well more like "completely" *does the fingers thing*) shut till desired boost is reached.

I had a greddy profec on my previous setup and it made a MASSIVE difference to the manual one i had before

running a SR20det with a dicktator management system, bov, rising rate regulator and a 600 200 50 chopped up truck intercooler. fitted the turbo and made up my own pipes.with standard t2.5 and intercooler was making 163kw with 0.8bar at fly-wheel.

must b an electrical 1.got a switch in car the gives an extra 0.1 bar boost. not too clued up on vacuume pipes but il try to explain how its set up. pipe comes from throttle area goes towards actuator.spilts up, one into actuator, other into boost controller, then out into air box.if that makes any sense!!!

Down here in durban my CA18DET with Big FMI and 76mm pipe is making 161.7KW @Fly And 285 NM Torque @Fly.

I am going for the Garrett GT3071 Turbo for my car.

Do you know at what revs you get your specs?

Down here in durban my CA18DET with Big FMI and 76mm pipe is making 161.7KW @Fly And 285 NM Torque @Fly.

Yeah they revved it up to 7000rpm. And i am running on 0.8 Bar Boost.

Sorry, On what RPM do you read your 285Nm?

Hey Peeps!

Just to educate PPL on turbos, esspesially on the "Danville" T3/T4!

Turbo's come in all different shape and sizes! Now there is misconception about the T3/T4! There is quite allot of companies that sell the "Danville" turbo now, which is around 3K-4K, which is usually a A/R 63 T3 exhaust housing with a Dash 2 T4 Turbine, Dash 25 compressor wheels in a A/R 60 T4 compressor(360 trust for higher boost). Now this is not a bad turbo for say a 2L, but not ideal! There is a sh!t load of turbo parts out there to build a turbo and I built a turbo to what I need! For a CA18DET, I would recommend a A/R 48 T3 exhaust with a Dash 2 or 3 T3 high speed turbine shaft, Dash 25 compressor in a A/R 60 T4 Compressor housing(360 Trust). We built this turbo for a SR20 and spoolup starts at around 2200rpm and say 1bar of boost is around 3300-3500, which is not far of say an Tb2808 turbo of a GTi-R, which is on 1bar at around 3000-3200! But the GTi-R turbo will start to fall of at around 5600-6000rpms, which the "Danville" T3/T4 will make past 7500rpms! A turbo like this will give u best of both worlds, low lag and top rpm power! Or buy a 10 grand ball bearing turbo if u have the cash! If u don't have the cash, this turbo will be a third of the price!

Don't just go and buy a turbo!! Build a turbo to u'r needs! There are PPL out there that will help u!

Phone Engine parts in joburg and speak to Marius or phone Chris at Stallion turbos in PTA. They will be able 2 build these specific turbos for u!

L8r

fokkit nad!!!

you've always amazed me with your turbo knowledge! well said!

(there's no thumbsup smiley )

It's been a while hearing someone use the "dash" word on turbine and comp wheels. It actually sounds good to know it's still being used. I think some of the new generation don't always understand it. LOL.

That combo is exactly what I used on my 16v toyota engine. A/R60 comp housing, "dash 25" comp wheel, Dash 2 wheel(O-trim) with a .48 T3 housing. But this was like uhmmm, 1998, Glad to see it's still a recommended combo.