Fighting Heat-soak

Gary57 · Post by **Gary57** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:17 am

VC that one rectangle vent looks great but how does it stop water going into it when it rains or when you wash your car??

Draco · Post by **Draco** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:43 am

Chemcool.....I know you disagree with what I am going to say but I think it is something that can be tried because we are in a different invironment than the guys over seas, Gary, I would say take a chance, do a test, try the second nozzle and see how it works or the other thing you can try is increasing the pressure on your pump setting and maybe trying to get it to come in earlier, but I remember you having a problem at some stage because it came in too soon, I want to remind you of something, a few days back you upped the timing on vacuum and so on, try bringing your meth in earlyer because of that and see what happens....

I had the normal nozzel with the normal pressure to the nozzel, boosting 1.4 bar, the guys in witbank dynod it like that, I came back to pretoria and decided 1.4 bar is madness, I increased my pressure to the nozzel and set it to come in at about 0.7 bar and tuned down my boost.

I went to a dyna place here in PTA, got the car on the dyna, we dynad the car on 0.9 bar and I got the same figure.....

What I am trying to say is I played alot with the settings and I gained by boosting less for the same power, play around, record your tests as best as you can, you might be surptised......

Draco · Post by **Draco** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 8:48 am

Also I have thaught of this alot before I sold the car, water/meth helps alot but in most cases we inject warm mixstures, because of hot temps in the engine bay and where ever you mount your mixture bottle, what if you could somehow cool down your mixture injecting into the manifold.....I think there would be huge gains in affectiveness and maybe even power.....I never got round to doing this.....maybe it could help you....

Gary57 · Post by **Gary57** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 10:14 am

Yeah draco I think a nozzle earlier would be great because it would cool down the stainless piping going to the FMIC. This will help fight the heat soak greatly. I can simply get the pump to come in earlier but as soon as I tap off Im back to hot air. Also my issue is I dont have a variable w/m controller, so I inject all or nothing. I have a 225cc nozzle which comes in at 3000rpm and over 0.5Bar boost, and on some days I can feel quenching.

Ideally I would need to expel the hot air in the engine bay, especailly from the tubular manifold. Next best thing I think is to cool down the charge pipes after the turbo and give the turbo some fresh air to breathe.

Doctor G · Post by **Doctor G** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 11:00 am

Doctor G wrote:Get that CRyo2 kit that shoots that cold stuff on your IC. It also runs through a little pipe that runs though your intake and/or the TB. And lastly it has a housing that your fuel lines runs through to cool down the fuel temps.

Together with a cold air compartment for your filter you should be all set.

Oh I think you should move your W/M system away from the filter so you can block it off etc.

And vent the bonnet.

I'd stay away from that exhaust wrap stuff. Looks horrible and ghetto - no offence. Rather save up and Ceramic coat the ex-manifold.

+1

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 6:48 pm

Draco wrote:Chemcool.....I know you disagree with what I am going to say but I think it is something that can be tried because we are in a different invironment than the guys over seas, Gary, I would say take a chance, do a test, try the second nozzle and see how it works or the other thing you can try is increasing the pressure on your pump setting and maybe trying to get it to come in earlier, but I remember you having a problem at some stage because it came in too soon, I want to remind you of something, a few days back you upped the timing on vacuum and so on, try bringing your meth in earlyer because of that and see what happens....

I had the normal nozzel with the normal pressure to the nozzel, boosting 1.4 bar, the guys in witbank dynod it like that, I came back to pretoria and decided 1.4 bar is madness, I increased my pressure to the nozzel and set it to come in at about 0.7 bar and tuned down my boost.

I went to a dyna place here in PTA, got the car on the dyna, we dynad the car on 0.9 bar and I got the same figure.....

What I am trying to say is I played alot with the settings and I gained by boosting less for the same power, play around, record your tests as best as you can, you might be surptised......

NO!
The enviroment won't be different. It is a waste to add another nozzle. Nozzles sizes are developed according to HP ratings. There is no sense in deviding the same injection amount into two or any other ratio. I say again, you people run FMIC's !!!! Me not! I make up for not using a fmic with a second nozzle, which already borders to a waste. You with FMIC with extra nozzles will rather QUENCH much easier. Info thanks to SNOW Performance, the specialists in Water /methanol. You can do it, but will proof nothing and it will cost you more for the same result as one perfect matched nozzle.

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 6:53 pm

Gary57 wrote:Yeah draco I think a nozzle earlier would be great because it would cool down the stainless piping going to the FMIC. This will help fight the heat soak greatly. I can simply get the pump to come in earlier but as soon as I tap off Im back to hot air. Also my issue is I dont have a variable w/m controller, so I inject all or nothing. I have a 225cc nozzle which comes in at 3000rpm and over 0.5Bar boost, and on some days I can feel quenching.

Ideally I would need to expel the hot air in the engine bay, especailly from the tubular manifold. Next best thing I think is to cool down the charge pipes after the turbo and give the turbo some fresh air to breathe.

Expel the hot air in the engine bay, yes

ChemCool · Post by **ChemCool** » Wed Jun 25, 2008 6:56 pm

I have a 225cc nozzle

According to snow performance, the HP you run, the 225 is to big!!!
175 for you, and only the 175 will be more than adequate.

And quenching will be out of your way, or rather easier to control compared to your current set up.

It is only from 300 HP RW and upwards you go for 225. Looking for my snow manual, to confirm--- think it is 300 horses

Draco · Post by **Draco** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 7:59 am

NO!
The enviroment won't be different. It is a waste to add another nozzle. Nozzles sizes are developed according to HP ratings. There is no sense in deviding the same injection amount into two or any other ratio. I say again, you people run FMIC's !!!! Me not! I make up for not using a fmic with a second nozzle, which already borders to a waste. You with FMIC with extra nozzles will rather QUENCH much easier. Info thanks to SNOW Performance, the specialists in Water /methanol. You can do it, but will proof nothing and it will cost you more for the same result as one perfect matched nozzle.

I knew you would not agree.....and you might well be right Mr. chem.....all I say is let the guy give it a try.....lets see what happens....

It is your choice Gary, you have a problem with no direct answers to fix, the only way to fix it is by trying new ideas, you might fail or you might get a result that you did not expect....

Whatever you do, try cooling down your water/meth mix somehow before you inject, I am very sure you are going to see good results from that.

Mr. Chem.....I am just thinking out of the box.....as you know there is alway 200 different opinions out there, all I say is see what the result is....

veecee · Post by **veecee** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:01 am

i agree with draco...

just make a plan, this IS Africa afterall.

Gary57 · Post by **Gary57** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:19 am

Chem I have about 300Hp.

I am seeing a 1 point drop in AFR at 0.8BAR and if I boost at 1 bar I only get a 0.5-0.8 point drop. I am running the pump at 120Psi, if I run it at 150Psi then I get quenching in the lower RPM range. I think the nozzel is too big for low RPM but then is bordering at high RPM, a variable controller would be great.

When I said fit a nozzel close to the turbo outlet I ment that this would only come on when IAT are too high (heatsoak). I could trigger this to come on just to cool the boost pipes down this cycle off.

I think I need to rid the engine bay of some of its heat. Anyone have a stock bonnet they not using??