RB26 Rebuild / Refresh

Discussion of technical issues and ideas (engine, chassis)

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rat
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RB26 Rebuild / Refresh

Post by rat »

My gtr started knocking begining of the year so it went into storage again. I thought it was time to fix it and have managed to save enough to start with the build.

So i need advice on what i should be replacing / modding. As the car is still stockish and i wont be going crasy with the power yet the stock pistons and rods are good for now.

List so far:

ACL Bearings
OEM Oilpump
Crank Mod
Cometic gasket set or oem (need advice here).
Rings (if i can find oem)
Cambelt and Tensioners

Was also thinking of porting the turbos and manifolds like tobie has done. would like the steel wheels but dont think i have enough cash to do it.

Want to remove all the extra stuff from the engine bay if i can with the stock managment / power fc. There are so many vacumm lines/ sensors / pipes etc.
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BigKriss
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Re: RB26 Rebuild / Refresh

Post by BigKriss »

P, The minimum here regarding the oil pump should be a Gary Law conversion.Its insurance where it counts.
Speak to Steve around the corner from you and have your pump done. Peace of mind bud.
Stock internals will make good power.Reliably.

Alternatively see here...450 UKP not bad..

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/270049-splin ... gears.html


Tensioner`s can be rebuilt by your self at a fraction of the cost. I did my set for about R270.00 plus a bit of labour.
The money was for the bearings that I bought from a local Bearing Man.
I did the Rb25 neo and now the Rb26.
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RB25SX
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Re: RB26 Rebuild / Refresh

Post by RB25SX »

Oil pump upgrade.
See link for upgrade gears. If u just want to keep stock oil pump flow. These are just straight fit into oil pump.
http://www.rhdjapan.com/reimax-oil-pump ... bnr34.html
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scunick
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Re: RB26 Rebuild / Refresh

Post by scunick »

Having rebuilt a number of these for a variety of reasons my primary advise would be to do a complete engine refresh, as apposed to just replacing old/damaged bits. I would advocate a complete stripdown and rebuild and if you are not going for big power then stock internals (excluding oil pump) should do the trick.

These motors are amazingly robust until something breaks and the chain reaction that it generates is massive. You need to diagnose the reason for the bearing failure. The point being that diagnosing it as oil starvation is not sufficient. Did the engine run dry (maybe an extended sump is required), did the pump run dry under cornering (need to baffle the sump), did the turbos spring an oil leak etc etc etc. This diagnosis will then give you a better idea of the modifications and replacements required.

All the above accepted you should always go for an upgraded oil pump and do the modifications on the oil return. These make for a massively more reliable RB in the long run.

In light of your other points I would go for a cometic head gasket and ARP head studs. If your turbo's are showing signs of age i would not go down the refurb, port and steel wheels, i would simply replace. In the long term the turbo housings crack, develop oil leaks and can be a major pain in the ass. I have even has issues with second hand HKS turbos that I have had refurbed.

I general I would advocate that you approach the rebuild from a defined power target and then build to that target using the correctly spec'ed parts and modifications. That way you are not going to have to buy parts again and again as they fall short of your eventual power goal.

I am pretty sure that this is really a case of telling you to suck eggs but hey ... you asked...

cheers
Nick

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