Project Sentra 160SE
Moderators: P3g4sus, Daniel, rat, Draco, Riekert
- Pinkfluffybunnys
- Over Boosting
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 1:21 pm
- Car: Other
- Engine: SR
- Real Name: Ashley
- Location: Pretoria
Project Sentra 160SE
Howzit Guys
I am going to start a project thread for my Daily Drive I still kick my self that I didn't do this correctly with my SX to track the improvements as the car changed over the years ,I bought the car from a Friend for a steal at only R20-000 the car stood for 1 year killing the battery the car came 17 inch rim's, Sony MP3 front loader,sony 200watt fronts, Audiobank 1800 watt amp and pioneer 500watt DVC Sub.
That was the good but the car does have a few problems first off is the mileage 260-000KM both side's Steering rack boots are shot, All four wheel bearing are shot because of the 17 inch rims (Yes rims kill bearings) it sounds like the left hand side CV's are toast the front crank case seal is shot and needs to be replaced also paint is heavily faded and last but no least it looks like the timing chain and valve stem seals are on there way out and need to be replaced damn Nissans
But I'm not to worried about the mileages as the GA16DE have been know to last to around 300-000KM also Import Ga16DE seem to very cheap being the unliked brother of the SR20 strangely also cheaper then the Toyota 1300cc motor go figure.
Its nice to be rid of the carb fueled car. Plus being a 93 ECCS ECU, I have all the fueling maps plus the license needed so all I need is a nistune board. I told myself when I got the car I was not going to modify her and was going to return her to stock that lasted around 30 seconds.
Here are some pictures of the car as I received it
The big clean
------------------
The first thing I wanted to do when I got the car was a MAJOR service including cap, Rotor, Leads, wiper blade's... ect but I didn't have the cash in my budget will need around R800 so I did a minor service this included cleaning the AFM with a ear bud and a full throttle body clean these two things help the Idle and performance but fuel economy was bad and I think its related to the cone filter.
Rim Swap
-----------------
The first thing to go was the rim's the rid was way to hard and the car was way to twitchy also the massive loss of acceleration because of them also the car looked like a 4x4
So here is a picture of the new rim's, I don't think they look amazing but they are lighter and cheaper to replace rubber on.
Timing Bump
--------------------
Hillbilly I know and I'm sure to get flak from this by the people I respect but I bumped the timing by 5 degrees from 10 to 15, It was done by Import tuner a few years back and showed good gains in mid range torque and has been shown not the cause Knock on 91 Ron fuel and it didn't cause any knocking on 93 Ron that I could hear.
Grounding Kit
--------------------
Next I Installed a grounding kit, Having installed grounding kits on a number of motors including B18,B16,CA18DET and a 2E long block with the drivers reporting good results plus me experiencing an increase in smoothness on my ca18det I thought it would be a good Idea.
Before installing the kit I measured the voltage on the ECU grounds located on the intake of all Nissan ECCS cars , I got 12.2 Volts after installing the kit I got 12.6 the same across the battery I forgot to measure Ohm. But it does make sense that possibly after 13 years the grounds could have corroded
The car felt smoother and more willing to rev after the modification
Picture:
CAI Intake
-------------------------
Next I couldn't take the fact that the car was sucking heated air from the engine bay, I had built a CAI for the SX to help lower intake temps and increase efficacy also after it was installed on the SX the butt dyno said there was an increase in off boost performance and there was a decrease in fuel consumption.So I built a Beta Intake that I ran for 5 days taking cold air from the fender.
Pictures of the build:
I wasn't impressed with the intake because of the amount of bends and the fact that it used the stock AFM to TB pipe with a resonator, Also the car seem more sluggish to rev when compared to the open Cone filter.
So I built the beta 2 Intake , I changed the AFM to TB pipe plus made a shorter and smoother path for the air to travel from the fender also I wrapped the piping to insulate from radiated heat in the engine bay and heat soak when stuck in traffic a lot of people don't like how it looks but I don't give a damn its been proven to work well.
Now when driving the car she feels a lot stronger, She sounds better at WOT and is returning better mileage also when popping the bonnet the AFM is cold to the touch and the intake is ambient thanks to the bypassed Throttle body cooling.
Picture:
Throttle body
------------------------------
I have bought a SR20 old spec throttle body from what i hear its a direct bolt on for the GA16DE including TPS. The stock GA16DE throttle body is 50mm and the SR20 is 60mm. I have done this same mod on my CA18DET and really enjoyed the increase throttle response
Unfortunately I haven't received the item yet so keep post for the install
I am going to start a project thread for my Daily Drive I still kick my self that I didn't do this correctly with my SX to track the improvements as the car changed over the years ,I bought the car from a Friend for a steal at only R20-000 the car stood for 1 year killing the battery the car came 17 inch rim's, Sony MP3 front loader,sony 200watt fronts, Audiobank 1800 watt amp and pioneer 500watt DVC Sub.
That was the good but the car does have a few problems first off is the mileage 260-000KM both side's Steering rack boots are shot, All four wheel bearing are shot because of the 17 inch rims (Yes rims kill bearings) it sounds like the left hand side CV's are toast the front crank case seal is shot and needs to be replaced also paint is heavily faded and last but no least it looks like the timing chain and valve stem seals are on there way out and need to be replaced damn Nissans
But I'm not to worried about the mileages as the GA16DE have been know to last to around 300-000KM also Import Ga16DE seem to very cheap being the unliked brother of the SR20 strangely also cheaper then the Toyota 1300cc motor go figure.
Its nice to be rid of the carb fueled car. Plus being a 93 ECCS ECU, I have all the fueling maps plus the license needed so all I need is a nistune board. I told myself when I got the car I was not going to modify her and was going to return her to stock that lasted around 30 seconds.
Here are some pictures of the car as I received it
The big clean
------------------
The first thing I wanted to do when I got the car was a MAJOR service including cap, Rotor, Leads, wiper blade's... ect but I didn't have the cash in my budget will need around R800 so I did a minor service this included cleaning the AFM with a ear bud and a full throttle body clean these two things help the Idle and performance but fuel economy was bad and I think its related to the cone filter.
Rim Swap
-----------------
The first thing to go was the rim's the rid was way to hard and the car was way to twitchy also the massive loss of acceleration because of them also the car looked like a 4x4
So here is a picture of the new rim's, I don't think they look amazing but they are lighter and cheaper to replace rubber on.
Timing Bump
--------------------
Hillbilly I know and I'm sure to get flak from this by the people I respect but I bumped the timing by 5 degrees from 10 to 15, It was done by Import tuner a few years back and showed good gains in mid range torque and has been shown not the cause Knock on 91 Ron fuel and it didn't cause any knocking on 93 Ron that I could hear.
Grounding Kit
--------------------
Next I Installed a grounding kit, Having installed grounding kits on a number of motors including B18,B16,CA18DET and a 2E long block with the drivers reporting good results plus me experiencing an increase in smoothness on my ca18det I thought it would be a good Idea.
Before installing the kit I measured the voltage on the ECU grounds located on the intake of all Nissan ECCS cars , I got 12.2 Volts after installing the kit I got 12.6 the same across the battery I forgot to measure Ohm. But it does make sense that possibly after 13 years the grounds could have corroded
The car felt smoother and more willing to rev after the modification
Picture:
CAI Intake
-------------------------
Next I couldn't take the fact that the car was sucking heated air from the engine bay, I had built a CAI for the SX to help lower intake temps and increase efficacy also after it was installed on the SX the butt dyno said there was an increase in off boost performance and there was a decrease in fuel consumption.So I built a Beta Intake that I ran for 5 days taking cold air from the fender.
Pictures of the build:
I wasn't impressed with the intake because of the amount of bends and the fact that it used the stock AFM to TB pipe with a resonator, Also the car seem more sluggish to rev when compared to the open Cone filter.
So I built the beta 2 Intake , I changed the AFM to TB pipe plus made a shorter and smoother path for the air to travel from the fender also I wrapped the piping to insulate from radiated heat in the engine bay and heat soak when stuck in traffic a lot of people don't like how it looks but I don't give a damn its been proven to work well.
Now when driving the car she feels a lot stronger, She sounds better at WOT and is returning better mileage also when popping the bonnet the AFM is cold to the touch and the intake is ambient thanks to the bypassed Throttle body cooling.
Picture:
Throttle body
------------------------------
I have bought a SR20 old spec throttle body from what i hear its a direct bolt on for the GA16DE including TPS. The stock GA16DE throttle body is 50mm and the SR20 is 60mm. I have done this same mod on my CA18DET and really enjoyed the increase throttle response
Unfortunately I haven't received the item yet so keep post for the install
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
- Pinkfluffybunnys
- Over Boosting
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 1:21 pm
- Car: Other
- Engine: SR
- Real Name: Ashley
- Location: Pretoria
Howzit Guys....
Well had another weekend filled to the brim with fixing Nissans this time it was the sentra, As I'm sure most of you guys know I have 93 160SE with 260-000KM it was suffering from the timing chain rattle when warm so for a matter of interest I contacted the family mechanic that my dad uses, he says there nothing I can do and I need to change the whole chain he said the chain kit is R1300 and it 8.5 hour labor coming to a total of R3700 including labor
I thought Bull Sh*t whole GA range suffers at some point of timing chain issues, I don't know why Nissan went with the two chain set-up on these cars anyway its normal the top chain that stretches but the chain is said to last the life of the car so I thought let me change the tensioner
Its about 2 hour job the first time to change the tensioner bellow are some pictures.
Old Tensoner
New tensoner
Total Cost:
Tensoner: R 120
Tapper cover gasket: R100
Result: EPIC FAIL
This worked the old tensioner was shot, Now my car made no noise at all when warm but when cold and at start-up it sounded like a tank
So I it looks like the chain was stretched so I went to Midas and bought a full chain kit and changed the top chain, Guides, Sprockets and tensioner this is a 3 hour job and you need to make sure the chain is timed correctly plus you need to grind down a small section to get the chain in and .
Cost:
Chain Kit: R1000
Result: Great, no noise at all it quiet on start-up and when warm not a single rattle saved myself R2500
Kit:
New stuff:
Place to grind down:
Crank Seal
------------------------
Yep the front crank seal fail and need to be replaced this was a 3 Hour job because of access to a few bolts plus was really annoying with the caked on oil everywhere .
Wheel Bearing, CV and Boots
-------------------------
The FSM says you need a 3 ton press for the job but thanks to the help of my dad, I found out there is a few way to skin a cat , I did the left sides wheel bearing and CV plus both steering boots this was a cake walk compared the crank case seal and timing chain
Well had another weekend filled to the brim with fixing Nissans this time it was the sentra, As I'm sure most of you guys know I have 93 160SE with 260-000KM it was suffering from the timing chain rattle when warm so for a matter of interest I contacted the family mechanic that my dad uses, he says there nothing I can do and I need to change the whole chain he said the chain kit is R1300 and it 8.5 hour labor coming to a total of R3700 including labor
I thought Bull Sh*t whole GA range suffers at some point of timing chain issues, I don't know why Nissan went with the two chain set-up on these cars anyway its normal the top chain that stretches but the chain is said to last the life of the car so I thought let me change the tensioner
Its about 2 hour job the first time to change the tensioner bellow are some pictures.
Old Tensoner
New tensoner
Total Cost:
Tensoner: R 120
Tapper cover gasket: R100
Result: EPIC FAIL
This worked the old tensioner was shot, Now my car made no noise at all when warm but when cold and at start-up it sounded like a tank
So I it looks like the chain was stretched so I went to Midas and bought a full chain kit and changed the top chain, Guides, Sprockets and tensioner this is a 3 hour job and you need to make sure the chain is timed correctly plus you need to grind down a small section to get the chain in and .
Cost:
Chain Kit: R1000
Result: Great, no noise at all it quiet on start-up and when warm not a single rattle saved myself R2500
Kit:
New stuff:
Place to grind down:
Crank Seal
------------------------
Yep the front crank seal fail and need to be replaced this was a 3 Hour job because of access to a few bolts plus was really annoying with the caked on oil everywhere .
Wheel Bearing, CV and Boots
-------------------------
The FSM says you need a 3 ton press for the job but thanks to the help of my dad, I found out there is a few way to skin a cat , I did the left sides wheel bearing and CV plus both steering boots this was a cake walk compared the crank case seal and timing chain
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
- Pinkfluffybunnys
- Over Boosting
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 1:21 pm
- Car: Other
- Engine: SR
- Real Name: Ashley
- Location: Pretoria
Howzit Guys.
Well I finally preformed the SR20 throttle body swap. There was a bit of work involved and it took around 3 hours to preform the swap including porting the GA16DE Intake Manifold and there is a lot of porting to do.
You will need the old spec SR20 TB and you need to do Minor modification to the SR20 Unit to fit the GA16DE TPS.
GA16DE vs SR20 throttle body
I would recommend removing the top of the intake to do the porting then you can also see how the intake can do with a bit of port matching.
Port work needed
After porting.
Final install.
Results: When I changed the TB on my 200SX I got a great increase in throttle response but with the GA16DE I got a great lump of torque at 3500 RPM,
Well I finally preformed the SR20 throttle body swap. There was a bit of work involved and it took around 3 hours to preform the swap including porting the GA16DE Intake Manifold and there is a lot of porting to do.
You will need the old spec SR20 TB and you need to do Minor modification to the SR20 Unit to fit the GA16DE TPS.
GA16DE vs SR20 throttle body
I would recommend removing the top of the intake to do the porting then you can also see how the intake can do with a bit of port matching.
Port work needed
After porting.
Final install.
Results: When I changed the TB on my 200SX I got a great increase in throttle response but with the GA16DE I got a great lump of torque at 3500 RPM,
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
- Pinkfluffybunnys
- Over Boosting
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 1:21 pm
- Car: Other
- Engine: SR
- Real Name: Ashley
- Location: Pretoria
Bought all the bend and made it fit to be honest.Where do you get your custom intake piping?
LOL I wish, Just a lot of oil ragsAnd why are you hands so clean when your holding the tensioner, is your dad doing all the work?
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
- Pinkfluffybunnys
- Over Boosting
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 1:21 pm
- Car: Other
- Engine: SR
- Real Name: Ashley
- Location: Pretoria
- phoenix s14
- Over Boosting
- Posts: 1102
- Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:01 pm
- Car: S14
- Engine: SR
- Real Name: Mark Appelgryn
- Location: Boksburg, Gauteng
hey I had one of those sentras... on mine I had V.D. Linde developments make me a set of 272deg billets and port and flow the head and valves etc... ate my friend's Vtec civic for breakfast... awesome car... I loved it... 272 was awesome at coastal areas but up here I'd do a 268 or 265
Weight kills all the fun - Jeremy Clarkson
- Pinkfluffybunnys
- Over Boosting
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 1:21 pm
- Car: Other
- Engine: SR
- Real Name: Ashley
- Location: Pretoria
I personally think the 272 degrees are to large for the GA16DE with the 6300RPM redline but for R1200 beggars cant be choosers.hey I had one of those sentras... on mine I had V.D. Linde developments make me a set of 272deg billets and port and flow the head and valves etc... ate my friend's Vtec civic for breakfast... awesome car... I loved it... 272 was awesome at coastal areas but up here I'd do a 268 or 265
I would like to know why Nissan do dramatically short changed the GA16DE but hopfully the cams will go a long way to solving this.
phoenix s14 - what other mods did you do to kill your firends Vtec becuase my goal is to beat a SR20 then I have two underdogs
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
- phoenix s14
- Over Boosting
- Posts: 1102
- Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2008 8:01 pm
- Car: S14
- Engine: SR
- Real Name: Mark Appelgryn
- Location: Boksburg, Gauteng
- widowmaker
- 200SX Maniac
- Posts: 3052
- Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2006 9:50 am
- Car: S13
- Real Name: Walter
- Location: im from another planet?
- Contact:
- Pinkfluffybunnys
- Over Boosting
- Posts: 1695
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 1:21 pm
- Car: Other
- Engine: SR
- Real Name: Ashley
- Location: Pretoria
Hi Guys...
I received the cams for the sentra today and was lucky enough to have the day off from work so I installed them
Here is a step by step guide:
First turn the motor to TDC, Then Remove the cam cover and distributor
Once done loosen the bolts that hold the cam sprockets on and remove the cam sprockets from the cams once done start removing the cam bridges following the sequence in the manual.
When done start removing the old cams
Install the new cams and tighten all bolts to spec
Cams
--------
Here is a comparison between the old and new cams to my surprise the items are billets because the base circle is 32mm same as stock, To me it doesn't seem the cams are 272 degrees when comparing them to the stock lode's but they are marked 272 with the master cams signature.
The exhaust cam does have 1mm more lift then the stock items but the inlet is still 9mm
The car started up first time with a little valve train noise until everything was lubricated again. I rechecked the timing and set it to 15 degress, I also need to adjust the idle valve to keep 900rpm
Impressions
---------------
With the CAI the car sound just like a Vtec with induction the car does have slightly more pull past 5000Rpm and runs till redline (6300Rpm) easier down low the car feels and pulls the same but the gain up high is very welcome but to be honest, I was less then I expected but the car is still running the stock branch and the stock 45mm exhaust system.
Im sure once I upgrade these two items it will really open up the motor.
[/img]
I received the cams for the sentra today and was lucky enough to have the day off from work so I installed them
Here is a step by step guide:
First turn the motor to TDC, Then Remove the cam cover and distributor
Once done loosen the bolts that hold the cam sprockets on and remove the cam sprockets from the cams once done start removing the cam bridges following the sequence in the manual.
When done start removing the old cams
Install the new cams and tighten all bolts to spec
Cams
--------
Here is a comparison between the old and new cams to my surprise the items are billets because the base circle is 32mm same as stock, To me it doesn't seem the cams are 272 degrees when comparing them to the stock lode's but they are marked 272 with the master cams signature.
The exhaust cam does have 1mm more lift then the stock items but the inlet is still 9mm
The car started up first time with a little valve train noise until everything was lubricated again. I rechecked the timing and set it to 15 degress, I also need to adjust the idle valve to keep 900rpm
Impressions
---------------
With the CAI the car sound just like a Vtec with induction the car does have slightly more pull past 5000Rpm and runs till redline (6300Rpm) easier down low the car feels and pulls the same but the gain up high is very welcome but to be honest, I was less then I expected but the car is still running the stock branch and the stock 45mm exhaust system.
Im sure once I upgrade these two items it will really open up the motor.
[/img]
2008 Mazda 6 MPS - Daily Drive
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car
1\4 Mile:
1993 Nissan Sentra 200STI SR20VE – Mild VE
1\4 mile: 14.815 @153km\h @ ODI --- 1KM:195Km\h
Because Race Car