veecee wrote:no dude - no harm done so far - this is a silly idea!
As tempting as that sr20 front clip is, I've been reading about a lot of swaps like that having issues and the stock ecu nor working properly, as there is always some inevitable fcuk up with some of the wiring, and then guys end up going aftermarket anyways.
And I don't want to be 20k in and then have a stock sr20det, which may or may not have any issues.
My CA has been really good to me. 3 years now and I am sitting here battling to think of one time it actually let me down. Had a leaky exhaust manifold for a while, but besides that I had no issues really.
So I'm gonna aim for a realistic 250kw at the fly, focus on the mods that will get me there, ignore the unneccesary bs stuff, keep within a specified budget and keep my fingers crossed.
lol.....i had no choice but to go budget
i think i spend like 2 or 3 grand on a rebuild(dont ask..it was begging,borring stealing and sleeping with right ppl that mde that happen
but u learn so much along the way
WOW 2 or 3 grand!! LOL doubt I'll be able to beat that!!!
My biggest problem is a decent turbo. I'm set on getting something decent, to make up for the fact that it's a CA that has to compete with SR20's WRX's etc etc. And a GT28RS runs in the R10k region at best, with the current exchange rate.
Anyways, here goes my planned list of mods/parts/work for the rebuild:
Definite:
Hone block
surface skim head
flow/port head
83.5 or 84mm pistons - cast - ceramic coated (Q: Will 84mm cause too much heat to dissipate through the cylinder bores and into the water galleries? Perhaps 83.5mm is safer)
New rings, obviously
ACL rod and crank bearings (don't wanna skimp on the bearings)
Balance bottom end
Lighten flywheel slightly, skim and balance off course
Steel head gasket
New Water Pump
New Oil Pump (Q: I know the FWD CA18DE pump fits, but does anyone know if it flows less/more than a CA18DET?)
Cams - probably
Engine Gasket set - Payen
New timing belt (Is RAM or Gater okay? I cannot see myself buying a Greddy belt for R1k!!)
Echlin Thermostat
Tubular S/S header
T2x turbo
turbo elbow
Optionals:
Depending on condition, hot tank and acid dip block
Surface skim block - if required
Doctor G wrote:Feel free to comment if I left anything out.
Dont mind if I do!
- 550cc Injectors! you not gonna get close to 250kw on the stock ones without melting a few pistons.
- MAF - stock one sucks flat before 250kw IIRC
- Management/piggyback - Even if you had a MAF, your stock ecu will probably run out of values or wont be able to know the VQ map on the new MAF, PFB if you can comment on that one.
- ARP Head and Rod bolts - since you are going MLS HG anyways, you will thank yourself for getting these later.
I dont see how there can be a thing such as a budget build on a turbo motor on that kind of power realistically, if you spend money in one area, it moves the strain to another, eg if you get a MLS HG so the HG wont blow, the next point of failure is bearings and rod bolts etc etc.
Not wanting to sound like a douche, just throwing that out there...
Sokar yeah you're right, forgot to mention the 550cc injectors. What size are those rotary injectors again??
I have a N60 MAF. Should do the job.
Management. Yeah, either gotech or nistune. Still have to research nistune a bit.
ARP studs and bolts. Definitely head studs. Not sold on the rod bolts through. The stockers aren't exactly weak.
@ PFB - I'm calling it a budget build cause I'm trying to avoid forged rods, pistons, tomei cams, springs, retainers, sold lifters etc etc.
Not trying to do an overhaul. It's still an Engine BUILD. But taking some budget constraints into mind, and not just throwing in parts cause someone's cousin's uncle's sister's son did it on his car and he sweares it works - if you know what I mean.
If forged pistons turn out to be absolutely necessary for my goals, then I'll do it. Under 6k rpm the load on the pistons don't justify it. Not even if I boosted 2 bar. So I'm wondering if R8k is worth the extra peace of mind. Cause from what I've read, if you're not doing CP's, then you're pretty much wasting your money. The other brands will wear out your cylinder bores within about 10k kms max.
Doctor G wrote:WOW 2 or 3 grand!! LOL doubt I'll be able to beat that!!!
My biggest problem is a decent turbo. I'm set on getting something decent, to make up for the fact that it's a CA that has to compete with SR20's WRX's etc etc. And a GT28RS runs in the R10k region at best, with the current exchange rate.
Anyways, here goes my planned list of mods/parts/work for the rebuild:
Definite:
Hone block
surface skim head
flow/port head
83.5 or 84mm pistons - cast - ceramic coated (Q: Will 84mm cause too much heat to dissipate through the cylinder bores and into the water galleries? Perhaps 83.5mm is safer)
New rings, obviously
ACL rod and crank bearings (don't wanna skimp on the bearings)
Balance bottom end
Lighten flywheel slightly, skim and balance off course
Steel head gasket
New Water Pump
New Oil Pump (Q: I know the FWD CA18DE pump fits, but does anyone know if it flows less/more than a CA18DET?)
Cams - probably
Engine Gasket set - Payen
New timing belt (Is RAM or Gater okay? I cannot see myself buying a Greddy belt for R1k!!)
Echlin Thermostat
Tubular S/S header
T2x turbo
turbo elbow
Optionals:
Depending on condition, hot tank and acid dip block
Surface skim block - if required
Feel free to comment if I left anything out.
ya...ws a once off thing to get all those parts for that price....but a desprate guy knows no bounds lol
but it wasnt all immediate...had to wait like 6mntsh for it all to come together!
if u dont have a "race budget" like most guys...u tend to make a plan!
so keep an eye out.
petrol
