Nissan 200SX Club - South Africa

impossible

SonOfAnarchy ZA wrote:impossible

Thats what I said......

Is it possible that the car can sometimes overfuel and sometimes not?
Maybe the air flow meter or heat sensor gives inconsistent readings?? What is the possibility of that??

Ja it may be worth changing your water temp and cleaning your afm

SonOfAnarchy ZA wrote:Ja it may be worth changing your water temp and cleaning your afm

I did clean the AFM, but it could still be half broken... the AFR gauge in the car is not working properly, or so it seems. Someone once said it is a narrow band something something, so I assume I can swap out the probe for a wide band one??? If I can get that to work properly, then I would be able to tell when or if its running rich or not. The temp sensor, is that on the intake?

Here's that video again, AFR gauge not working so well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcoJxgn ... e=youtu.be

Not dripping at 6 bar? Who the hell did you take it to?
Did you get a flow test report?

Enzio wrote:Not dripping at 6 bar? Who the hell did you take it to?
Did you get a flow test report?

place called Cape injector centre. He phoned me yesterday, so not reports, just a phone call.

A wideband consists out of a 5/6 wire probe and a controller. If you have that you can wire you current gauge to the narrow band output of the controller.
I would just get a complete setup including a proper gauge, like this:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php

I think I know what the problem is.
A really nasty backyard hack to control boost if you don't have a proper wategate is to add a second dump valve. You don't connect it to a boost/vacuum source and just set the preload to open up at the boost you want.
I suspect they did that on your car, cause it's not connected to a boost/vacuum source and the wastegate flap is welded shut.

So your turbo is basically boosting all it can and you venting all but 0.8bar to atmo. This is probably maxing out your AFM and the chip is clamping the AFM volts to stop boost cut and guessing the final mixture.

Also...I think the inconsistent idle is caused by the crap quality dump valve that doesn't always seat properly when the piston returns, thus causing air to enter your motor without being measured by the AFM.

Hope this makes sense...lol

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

Nissan_Fanatic wrote:I think I know what the problem is.
A really nasty backyard hack to control boost if you don't have a proper wategate is to add a second dump valve. You don't connect it to a boost/vacuum source and just set the preload to open up at the boost you want.
I suspect they did that on your car, cause it's not connected to a boost/vacuum source and the wastegate flap is welded shut.

So your turbo is basically boosting all it can and you venting all but 0.8bar to atmo. This is probably maxing out your AFM and the chip is clamping the AFM volts to stop boost cut and guessing the final mixture.

Also...I think the inconsistent idle is caused by the crap quality dump valve that doesn't always seat properly when the piston returns, thus causing air to enter your motor without being measured by the AFM.

Hope this makes sense...lol

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

That kind of makes sense. I think

The injectors is going back in tonight, so hope it will be running soon and then I can take it to someone that could have a look.

What will happen, if I remove the disconnected dump valve and seal the hole in the pipe?

That is what I would suggest, but be VERY carefull...you will have NO boost control.

Do that and drive it around without going into boost and check for idle quality and fuel consumption...also a working wideband AFR gauge will be very helpful now.

You can try going into boost a little bit, but your foot will be the boost controller so be very careful and watch the boost gauge closely.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

Nissan_Fanatic wrote:That is what I would suggest, but be VERY carefull...you will have NO boost control.

Do that and drive it around without going into boost and check for idle quality and fuel consumption...also a working wideband AFR gauge will be very helpful now.

You can try going into boost a little bit, but your foot will be the boost controller so be very careful and watch the boost gauge closely.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

Ok, thanks for the advice, I think you are on the right track, or else it could be faulty AFM.

also a working wideband AFR gauge will be very helpful now

I agree, just a pity they are so expensive!!

Will keep you posted

I had similar problem when I got my sx and I took my car to Dynotech.

Dynotech didn't solve the issue... research and talking getting advice from sx owners that the issue was resolved.

BUMP for update.

Skippy wrote:Dynotech didn't solve the issue... research and talking getting advice from sx owners that the issue was resolved.

yip, that's what I'm doing here. Met some really helpful people!!

Nissan_Fanatic wrote:I think I know what the problem is.
A really nasty backyard hack to control boost if you don't have a proper wategate is to add a second dump valve. You don't connect it to a boost/vacuum source and just set the preload to open up at the boost you want.
I suspect they did that on your car, cause it's not connected to a boost/vacuum source and the wastegate flap is welded shut.

I think this is spot on. Installed the injectors yesterday, waiting on the guy to fix the wiring, he is coming Wednesday evening. So will confirm the waste-gate flap story. I have disconnected the vacuum line. sucked and blow in it, no gate movement, but not sure how much pressure it needs to move??

Jaco in what area do you stay in Cape town?

Sent from my D2005 using Tapatalk

troopiec wrote:Jaco in what area do you stay in Cape town?

Sent from my D2005 using Tapatalk

I stay in Bellville. Car is parked at my work in Parow